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Front derailleur woes... have tried (I think) everything

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Front derailleur woes... have tried (I think) everything

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Old 05-16-07, 08:15 AM
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Front derailleur woes... have tried (I think) everything

Ok, so recently installed a new BB (FSA MegaExo), new compact crank (FSA SLK 50/36), new rear d (Dura Ace), new front d (Dura Ace).

Before I had on all Ultegra with a Gossamer compact (50/34) and all shifted/worked well.

For the life of me, I can't get the front derailleur to not rub on the big ring when I'm in a 50x11 or 50x12 combination.

I have let the H screw out all I can. I don't have any barrel adjuster (it's a Cervelo Team Soloist) for the front d.

I have the derailleur the correct height (used the Park penny measurement) and believe it's down to the cable tension. I've tried loosening and tightening the cable, but am not getting it working. However, when I have it on the big ring, drop it down to the 11 or 12 cog and it starts rubbing, if I force the cage via the cable or the lever, it will push it over a few more mm's and cuts out the rubbing.

Any thoughts?!? I'm sure I'm missing something minor here... have read through the Park Big Blue Book and can't find anything that I'm missing...
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Old 05-16-07, 08:29 AM
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The shift cable must be all of the way out of the shifter before attaching the cable to the derailleur. With the cable loose flip the small shifter several times while pulling the free end of the cable. Be sure the cable routing is correct, then attach to the derailleur. Use the barrel adjustor to add tension to the cable as needed.

Al
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Old 05-16-07, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Al1943
The shift cable must be all of the way out of the shifter before attaching the cable to the derailleur. With the cable loose flip the small shifter several times while pulling the free end of the cable. Be sure the cable routing is correct, then attach to the derailleur. Use the barrel adjustor to add tension to the cable as needed.

Al
I agree that all this should be checked but bet it comes down to cable adjustment. If all else fails, you can do a little plier surgery on the outer plates. But start with the easy stuff first.
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Old 05-16-07, 09:03 AM
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This is getting repetitious but how did you route the cable to the fd attaching bolt?

Shimano fd's have a little tab on the inside of the attaching bolt at about 8:00 or 9:00. The cable must be routed above and outside of this tab. It must nor be run between the tab and the fixing bolt.
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Old 05-16-07, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by adam
(clip)
For the life of me, I can't get the front derailleur to not rub on the big ring when I'm in a 50x11 or 50x12 combination. (clip)
Are you saying the FD is rubbing on the big ring or do you mean the chain is rubbing the FD when on the big ring and small cogs? Very different issues

edit: reading your problem again - are you sure you're just not understanding the trim function on your left brifter?
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Old 05-16-07, 12:37 PM
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I've found that any slight rubbing can often be fixed by rotating the FD bracket very slightly (just one or two degrees) on the seat-tube; I'm not sure if there's any lateral adjustment on FDs with braze-on fittings; all mine have the regular clamps.

- Wil
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Old 05-16-07, 02:35 PM
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More info for some of the helpful answers:
- yup, cable is all the way out of the shifter
- yup, cable routing is correct
- yup, cable is over the tab, not under where the bolt is
- plier surgery... interesting - might have to resort to it - but don't want to right yet... brand new derailleur and all
- yup, understand the trim feature on the left shifter. The rubbing is happening when I'm in the big ring/small cog combos and only happens on the final two cogs
- and an 'oops' - I meant to say that the chain is rubbing the FD when I'm in the 50x11, 50x12 combo not the FD rubbing the chainring.

I have been playing around with the cable tension - this seemed to work it out (a bit) but once I got on the bike to give it a go 'round the neighbourhood, it now just won't shift up to the big ring.

Back downstairs to see if I can muck around with the cable tension again. I'm going to post a pic later tho' - found that the rear end of the front derailleur seems very close to the crank arm. Have never noticed it on other bikes before - maybe it's normal, but would like that confirmed by the masses....
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Old 05-17-07, 09:06 AM
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Shoot a pic from directly above so we can see the alignment with the rings.

I don't have any barrel adjuster (it's a Cervelo Team Soloist) for the front d.
??? None? How do they expect you to adjust the FD?

Oh! New crankset. Did you change the bottom bracket? Do you know if the front chainline is what it's supposed to be?
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Old 05-17-07, 10:44 AM
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Yes, did change the BB as well. Some pics here:

https://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x7/adam_bf/
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Old 05-17-07, 11:54 AM
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You say you don't have a barrel adjuster for the FD. Do you have any adjuster for the FD cable? If not, I don't see how you're going to fine-tune the cable tension, which is what it appears you need to do. Are you trying to do that by loosening the cable attachment bolt on the FD, sliding the cable through and then re-tightening? If so, good luck with that.
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Old 05-17-07, 12:59 PM
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Assuming you are running index shifting:

will the FD move outboard of the big ring far enough to stop rubbing if you move the set screw all the way out? If not then your BB is likely two long for the frame. How far away from the frame is the little ring at its closest point (rear chain stay)? If it is more than a couple MM then it may be too far out for the Dura ace to handle.

If this looks OK then rotate the FD slightly towards the front of the bike (outways) a couple degrees and see if this helps.

Tips:

you need a barrel adjuster on your down tube housing guide!
don't make the cable too tight in the slack position
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Old 05-18-07, 12:16 PM
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Yeah, the chainline looks like it's in the ballpark (if the other end of the tape is in the right place). The FD does look like it's canted in toward the rear wheel a bit. If rotating it doesn't fix:

Take the cable off the FD and break the chain. Pull it (FD) all the way out. Does it come out far enough to clear? Does it stop when it hits the limit screw or the the FD frame? If it hits the limit screw and isn't far enough, back off the limit screw some more.

That will tell you whether the FD has enough capacity. If it does then start worrying about the shifters and adjustments.
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Old 05-18-07, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by adam
if I force the cage via the cable or the lever, it will push it over a few more mm's and cuts out the rubbing.
This sounds as if the derailleur is able to move far enough out but the shifter is not taking it there. This is what prompted my previous post. And yes, you do need a barrel adjuster.
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Old 05-18-07, 07:51 PM
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I question if this cable thing is a wild goose chase.
I installed a Campy Racing Triple on my Proteus this winter, replacing an early model C-Record.
I had a Chorus 10 speed FD on at the time. Of course, no problem shifting the old 42-52, but hit the same problem as you.
I installed a Chorus Triple and all is now well.
My non-scientific observation is that a triple FD has a greater range of travel than one designed for a double.
Maybe you install one and see if that helps.
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