Headset needs replaced
#1
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Headset needs replaced
I was at the lbs for something else today and one of the guys noticed that my headset was loose. He went to tighten it and was gone for 15 or 20 minutes. He came back out and said he couldn't get it tight and grabed the owner to take a look.
He came back out after another 10 or 15 minutes and said I am going to need a new headset but that it was fine for now. I can see the play in the headset when I put on the brakes and rock the bike back and forth.
So I have few questions for you guys.
What would cause a headset to go after 1000 miles? This is a 2003 bianchi volpe that I use for commuting. I put about 100 miles a week on the bike. I know that this is the first year they are using the threadless headsets but I have know idea if this makes any difference or not.
Second, Do I need to replace it soon? It steers just fine but I can feel it move a little when I hit bumps or when I come to a stop and the bike rocks. They told me I could probably make it
through the summer and just to change it when I stop commuting for the year. Will this do any damage to anything else?
Finally when I do have it replaced should I go with a Chris King headset? Everything I have read here and other places say that they are the best but also the most expensive. I like the warranty they have. Are they really that much better? Will I notice a difference while riding or is it just a reliability and longevity issue? Are they worth the price or am I paying for the name?
Thanks in advance for what I am sure will be very helpful info.
Steve
He came back out after another 10 or 15 minutes and said I am going to need a new headset but that it was fine for now. I can see the play in the headset when I put on the brakes and rock the bike back and forth.
So I have few questions for you guys.
What would cause a headset to go after 1000 miles? This is a 2003 bianchi volpe that I use for commuting. I put about 100 miles a week on the bike. I know that this is the first year they are using the threadless headsets but I have know idea if this makes any difference or not.
Second, Do I need to replace it soon? It steers just fine but I can feel it move a little when I hit bumps or when I come to a stop and the bike rocks. They told me I could probably make it
through the summer and just to change it when I stop commuting for the year. Will this do any damage to anything else?
Finally when I do have it replaced should I go with a Chris King headset? Everything I have read here and other places say that they are the best but also the most expensive. I like the warranty they have. Are they really that much better? Will I notice a difference while riding or is it just a reliability and longevity issue? Are they worth the price or am I paying for the name?
Thanks in advance for what I am sure will be very helpful info.
Steve
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So it's like this one here?
I wonder if they either need another spacer in the headset stack, or forgot to loosen the clamping bolt on the front-brake hanger before attempting to take out the slop. If you want to try adjusting it, it's definitely not difficult to go through the motions:
HTH Cool bike, by the way!
I wonder if they either need another spacer in the headset stack, or forgot to loosen the clamping bolt on the front-brake hanger before attempting to take out the slop. If you want to try adjusting it, it's definitely not difficult to go through the motions:
- First check visually through the slot in the rear of the stem to see if the top cap of the headset is bottoming out on the end of the fork's steer tube. If it is, then you need another spacer in the stack so you have a little gap of 2-3mm between the end of the steer tube and the bottom of the cap
- Loosen the clamping bolt of the front brake-cable hanger
- Loosen the clamp bolts that secure the stem to the steer tube
- Gently snug the top cap's bolt, the one that faces up at you, to push the stem, spacers and cable hanger downward against the bearings and remove the slop. Don't go crazy, it won't take a lot of torque to accomplish this.
- Center your stem to the front tire and tighten the bolts that clamp the stem to the steer tube
- Tighten the clamp bolt in the front brake-cable hanger
- Rock the bike with the brakes on and see if the slop is gone
HTH Cool bike, by the way!
#3
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Mech, Yeah that's the one.
I will follow your instructions and try adjusting it myself but I feel pretty comfortable with the guys at my lbs. They are pretty good and I trust them. I have a pretty good relationship with them so I think they took the time to do it right. However it is good to now know how to do it myself.
Thanks
I will follow your instructions and try adjusting it myself but I feel pretty comfortable with the guys at my lbs. They are pretty good and I trust them. I have a pretty good relationship with them so I think they took the time to do it right. However it is good to now know how to do it myself.
Thanks
#4
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if your headset does need replacing, I would do it as soon as possible. a loose headset can wreck your frame's headtube, which cannot be replaced. try tightening it yourself first, according to mech_Bgon's advice.
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A headset that fails after 1000 miles clearly has a defect, either in the unit or in the way it was installed or adjusted. No possible way you should pay for this yourself.
It's the bike shop's obligation to replace this headset, and they can take it up with the manufacturer whether it's a warranty replacement or not.
Headsets last for many tens of thousands of miles. If the shop itself diagnosed the problem there should absolutely no question that it's covered, and that the repair should be done as soon as the replacement headset is in hand.
Since the headset is defective, I would be very nervous about riding with it.
RichC
It's the bike shop's obligation to replace this headset, and they can take it up with the manufacturer whether it's a warranty replacement or not.
Headsets last for many tens of thousands of miles. If the shop itself diagnosed the problem there should absolutely no question that it's covered, and that the repair should be done as soon as the replacement headset is in hand.
Since the headset is defective, I would be very nervous about riding with it.
RichC
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Training: 2002 Fuji Roubaix Pro (105 triple)
Commuting/Daytripping: 2001 Airborne Carpe Diem (Ultegra/XTR, touring wheels)
Commuting/Touring: 2000 Novara Randonee (Sora/Tiagra/LX, fenders, lights)
#6
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Rich,
I think it should be covered too but I don't think I am going to push the issue over a $20 dollar headset. I have had some other work done on stuff at this shop and the owner has cut me a pretty good break on things. I am sure when I get the new one I'll get at least partial credit for this one.
So what could happen if I keep riding it? It doesn't seem real loose just a little play in it. Will it damage the bike frame or fork?
What about the Chris King headsets. Should I just go a head and upgrade and not worry about headsets again?
Thanks
Steve
I think it should be covered too but I don't think I am going to push the issue over a $20 dollar headset. I have had some other work done on stuff at this shop and the owner has cut me a pretty good break on things. I am sure when I get the new one I'll get at least partial credit for this one.
So what could happen if I keep riding it? It doesn't seem real loose just a little play in it. Will it damage the bike frame or fork?
What about the Chris King headsets. Should I just go a head and upgrade and not worry about headsets again?
Thanks
Steve
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Play in the headset can damage the headtube by ovalizing it as the steerer bangs back and forth against the cups.
The odd thing about your situation is that they can't get it tight. Usually even a slam worn out head set will tighten up. It will feel horrible, notchy.
It really sounds like the steerer is bottoming against the top cap or the bevel washer is binding. I have seen the topcap get "crimped" and prevent adjustment.
The odd thing about your situation is that they can't get it tight. Usually even a slam worn out head set will tighten up. It will feel horrible, notchy.
It really sounds like the steerer is bottoming against the top cap or the bevel washer is binding. I have seen the topcap get "crimped" and prevent adjustment.
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#8
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Rev.Chuck,
Thanks. I will take it over to the lbs and have the owner take
a look at it right away.
Thanks. I will take it over to the lbs and have the owner take
a look at it right away.