Older Frame & Newer Shifting
#1
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Older Frame & Newer Shifting
Alright...I have an older Cannondale Black Lightning, all beefy aluminum, frame I'd like to upgrade to a few newer components for my son. Currently, it has a 6-sp freewheel married w/Campy downtube shifters (which may actually be 7-sp indexed shifters ). I'd like to get it up to some brifters with 8-, 9-, or even 10-speeds (if I can afford it).
1st:
Do you think I can force open the rear 126mm spread (I measured it at actual 127mm) to accomodate a 130mm rear wheel, or am I risking damaging something, given the older, stiff aluminum rear triangle?
If not,
What's the maximum # of gears for 126mm spacing? 7, 8, or 9? And would I look for certain parts numbers (say like off eBay), or just grab them if they say 7-, 8-, or 9-speed?
1st:
Do you think I can force open the rear 126mm spread (I measured it at actual 127mm) to accomodate a 130mm rear wheel, or am I risking damaging something, given the older, stiff aluminum rear triangle?
If not,
What's the maximum # of gears for 126mm spacing? 7, 8, or 9? And would I look for certain parts numbers (say like off eBay), or just grab them if they say 7-, 8-, or 9-speed?
#2
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https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7
https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
good places to start. you didn't mention what kind of RD you have, but you may have to change it out, too. If you have Campy syncro shifters and RD, it's really not going to match up with much else if you want indexed.
https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
good places to start. you didn't mention what kind of RD you have, but you may have to change it out, too. If you have Campy syncro shifters and RD, it's really not going to match up with much else if you want indexed.
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Originally Posted by vpiuva
https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7
https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
good places to start. you didn't mention what kind of RD you have, but you may have to change it out, too. If you have Campy syncro shifters and RD, it's really not going to match up with much else if you want indexed.
https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
good places to start. you didn't mention what kind of RD you have, but you may have to change it out, too. If you have Campy syncro shifters and RD, it's really not going to match up with much else if you want indexed.
#4
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Originally Posted by well biked
Note that the OP's bike is a Cannondale, though. Aluminum. No cold setting for this one. Flexing the stays apart a few millimeters by hand each time the wheel is installed, yes; permanent bending, no-
It's an aluminum frame, so the dropout spacing cannot be widened by cold setting as could be done if it were a steel frame.
#5
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So it could be flexed enough to get a 130 wheel in there, just have to do it each time?
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Originally Posted by mkadam68
So it could be flexed enough to get a 130 wheel in there, just have to do it each time?
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Pretty damned difficult to spread the stays on my Schwinn (1991). Just do an 8 of 9 conversion.
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Originally Posted by redirekib
Just do an 8 of 9 conversion.
Last edited by well biked; 05-28-07 at 08:10 AM.
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Originally Posted by well biked
How is that related to the hub spacing question? Please elaborate-
Last edited by redirekib; 05-28-07 at 10:38 AM.
#12
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Well..I didn't know that either. So I can just put 8 sprockets on a 7-sp hub (126 spacing), use Sora/Tiagra 8-speed brifters & rear der. and that should work? What about clearing the drive-side seat stay?
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Originally Posted by mkadam68
Well..I didn't know that either. So I can just put 8 sprockets on a 7-sp hub (126 spacing), use Sora/Tiagra 8-speed brifters & rear der. and that should work? What about clearing the drive-side seat stay?
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Originally Posted by mkadam68
Well..I didn't know that either. So I can just put 8 sprockets on a 7-sp hub (126 spacing), use Sora/Tiagra 8-speed brifters & rear der. and that should work? What about clearing the drive-side seat stay?
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Originally Posted by vpiuva
You use 8 out of 9 of the 9s cogs with 9s spacers, so you need a 9s shifter, not 8s. Covered in the Sheldon link I referenced earlier.
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Originally Posted by well biked
I just read that link, that is interesting. But still, you've got to cannibalize a nine speed cassette (or buy the cogs and spacers separately?) to build the new eight speed unit on the seven speed hub. I say if it's more cogs you want and the frame can be flexed apart, go the modern hub route-
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Originally Posted by redirekib
It's modern brifters the op wants, on an AL frame. It is really the best option. 9sp stuff can be had rather cheaply. The expense of 10 sp makes no sense, why not just buy a newbike then? Plus if you had to change a flat on the road, by yourself, you would have to lower the wheel into the dropouts with your teeth while spreading the stays with your hands.
My point to the OP is to try it and see before trying this other method. And if it's just brifters the OP wants, why not just go with barba's suggestion. For eight speeds, it will be a LOT less trouble and expense to just get a 130mm hub and put on there with an eight speed cassette and eight speed shifters than to do the "eight of nine on seven" thing UNLESS it's just too difficult to flex the stays apart. For road componentry, nine speed stuff probably isn't terribly expensive these days either, another easy option with a modern hub. After reading Sheldon's link, he seems to imply the "eight of nine on seven" thing is really a last resort, like if you have an old glued, carbon frame-
Last edited by well biked; 05-28-07 at 06:03 PM.
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If the OP's C'dale is already at 127mm, even the AL stays can tolerate being spring apart 1.5mm on each side, each time you install the rear wheel (how often do you do that anyway?).
The main question to the OP is:
1. How much money are you willing to spend vs. how much time/effort are you willing to invest in order to save some money.
2. How much is keeping that C'dale frame worth to you?
I recently went through the same process with my 20yr old lugged steel Pinarello with 7sp SIS. Finally decided to ditch the whole drivetrain & wheels and upgrade everything to 10sp. Yes, it's expensive, but my time is even more so. And the Pinarello carries a boat load of sentimental value to me personally.
The main question to the OP is:
1. How much money are you willing to spend vs. how much time/effort are you willing to invest in order to save some money.
2. How much is keeping that C'dale frame worth to you?
I recently went through the same process with my 20yr old lugged steel Pinarello with 7sp SIS. Finally decided to ditch the whole drivetrain & wheels and upgrade everything to 10sp. Yes, it's expensive, but my time is even more so. And the Pinarello carries a boat load of sentimental value to me personally.