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Uniglide issues

Old 06-18-07, 08:39 PM
  #1  
lnlogauge
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Uniglide issues

After taking a few years off of biking, I'm trying to step back into things. A few years ago I put my 80's raleigh road bike on the shelf after putting thousands of miles on the thing, and rebuilt a Centurion Ironman. The problem is, the bike is not made for weekend riding. The cogs if I remember right are 12-21, and in GA this doesnt work. Hills become an incredible challenge.

I've read up on the sheldon brown conversion, since ebay Uniglide cassettes are rediculously expensive, and rarely any better than my 21. The thing is, its like reading a different language. I can replace parts, but Im not sure about rigging new parts on something ive never taken apart. Im debating on just buying a new set of wheels off ebay with Hyperglide and calling it a day. I'd rather not spend the money, since my wheels are quite decent in my opinion, also Im not even sure what to buy. I know the diameter size, is there a special width size as well? I'd love to hear your opinions on the hub issue, thanks
Tim

Last edited by lnlogauge; 06-19-07 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 06-19-07, 08:12 AM
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Sure it's a freehub/cassette and not a freewheel?
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Old 06-19-07, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lnlogauge
After taking a few years off of biking, I'm trying to step back into things. A few years ago I put my 80's raleigh road bike on the shelf after putting thousands of miles on the thing, and rebuilt a Centurion Ironman. The problem is, the bike is not made for weekend riding. The cogs if I remember right are 12-21, and in GA this doesnt work. Hills become an incredible challenge.

Ive read up on the sheldon brown conversion, since ebay Uniglide cassettes are rediculously expensive, and rarely any better than my 21. The thing is, its like reading a different language. I can replace parts, but Im not sure about rigging new parts on something ive never taken apart. Im debating on just buying a new set of wheels off ebay with Hyperglide and calling it a day. I'd rather not spend the money, since my wheels are quite decent in my opinion, also Im not even sure what to buy. I know the diameter size, is there a special width size as well? I'd love to hear your opinions on the hub issue, thanks
Tim
I've never done this, but if it were me I would explore the possibility of transplanting an HG freehub body onto your UG hub. Sheldon implies that it can be done, it sounds like you've read the info, but just in case, here's a couple of useful links:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#transplant
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Old 06-19-07, 09:06 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by well biked
I've never done this, but if it were me I would explore the possibility of transplanting an HG freehub body onto your UG hub. Sheldon implies that it can be done, it sounds like you've read the info, but just in case, here's a couple of useful links:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#transplant
Thanks for the links, I just need more detailed information as to what I need to buy and how to do it.

I am sure its a cassette and not a freewheel.
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Old 06-19-07, 12:25 PM
  #5  
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I did a Uniglide to HyperGlide freehub conversion on a 7sp UG Shimano 105 hub a couple of years ago. I bought an entire NOS rear hub on eBay for about $15, 7sp HG-20 I think, and swapped the freehub, cones, spacers, and locknuts.

You can also get Uniglide cassettes and loose cogs at http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=361069111556 Selection is not great but I've picked up a few (I still run Uniglide on my old 6sp MTB).

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Old 06-19-07, 01:04 PM
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Riding with 7 of 8 cogs and some old DA 8 speed STI shifters on a Dura Ace 6 speed uniglide hub. This setup uses the original 12t or 13t cog to hold everything together.

Cheap fix, spend $10 for a low end cassette (maybe a 7 speed), which you can take apart for the gears you want (24t 28t 30t). File down the one wide flange inside each cog and slide the gear onto your hub. Use your old spacers. Old 80's Shimano road rear derailleurs will work with a 32t rear 42/52-53 front, or 30t rear with 38-39/52-53 front chainrings. You will probably need a new chain to wrap over the large-large combination. A 32t bailout and a 42t crank will have you spinning up the hills again.
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Old 06-19-07, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gonzo Bob
I did a Uniglide to HyperGlide freehub conversion on a 7sp UG Shimano 105 hub a couple of years ago. I bought an entire NOS rear hub on eBay for about $15, 7sp HG-20 I think, and swapped the freehub, cones, spacers, and locknuts.
+1 did this, too. You need cone wrenches and a 10mm allen wrench.

here's one on ebay now that should work http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Shimano-Hype...QQcmdZViewItem

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Old 06-19-07, 02:34 PM
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thanks very much for that link. So basically Im just reusing my existing wheel and spokes, but replacing everything else? or does the hub in the link come apart so I can just transplant what I need?

Originally Posted by Dural

Cheap fix, spend $10 for a low end cassette (maybe a 7 speed), which you can take apart for the gears you want (24t 28t 30t). File down the one wide flange inside each cog and slide the gear onto your hub. Use your old spacers. Old 80's Shimano road rear derailleurs will work with a 32t rear 42/52-53 front, or 30t rear with 38-39/52-53 front chainrings. You will probably need a new chain to wrap over the large-large combination. A 32t bailout and a 42t crank will have you spinning up the hills again.
SO your saying buy a hyperglide cassette, grab the 24t, 28t and 30t, file down what you listed and assemble back up? If thats the case, can my derailer which now goes to 21t handle a 30t with a longer chain?
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Old 06-19-07, 03:04 PM
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The hub actually remains on the wheel. The free-hub part comes off:



You don't really need anything than a couple of lower gears. May not even need a full 30t in the rear depending upon your hills. A good 1st step is to replace your small-chainring with a 38t one (most likely it's a 42t right now).

Then replace your three or four largest cogs on the cassette by filing down the wider flange so it fits onto a Uniglide freehub body. You may end up with something like this: 12-13-14-16-18-21-24t which will work for the majority of hills with a 38t front chainring. Or you can go to: 12-13-15-17-20-23-26t which I've found works well up to 12-14% grades. Of course, it depends upon your fitness and how fast you're climbing.
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Old 06-23-07, 03:49 PM
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SO your saying buy a hyperglide cassette, grab the 24t, 28t and 30t, file down what you listed and assemble back up? If thats the case, can my derailer which now goes to 21t handle a 30t with a longer chain?
Take apart a cassette with individual cogs. A newer cassette will have shift ramps too. Reduce the width of the wide spline on each new cog that you want to try (file it). I would add a 24t and something larger, 28, 30, or 32t for the hills I ride. Take off a couple of your smaller teeth. Use an online gear-inch calculator if you like to get an idea of the ratios and jumps you will have between gears.

My Dura Ace 8 speed rear and 105 rear derailleurs both work fine with up to a 32 tooth rear cog. Getting the correct chain length is critical. You do not want a too-short chain which will lock up trying to shift to the big-big gear combination, or a too long chain which will hang slack on the small-small combo. So you wrap your new chain through the derailleur and around the big-big combo, with as much chain as you can use without going slack on the small-small combo.

Keep your uniglide 12t to hold the cogs onto the cassette. Replace some of your other gears. I find 13-15-17-19-21-24-30 (with 39 front) or even a 32t (with 42t front) works fine on my 1980's standard road cage shimano derailleurs.
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