spoke / hub compatibility problem
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
spoke / hub compatibility problem
I'm building a new front wheel with DT 2/1.8/2 spokes and a dura-ace hub. While lacing up the first 8 spokes on the drive side, I noticed that the end of each spoke isn't sitting flush with the hub flange. It's as if the flange is too thick or the spoke neck is too short. Does that make sense? The result is that the laced spokes make the hub jut way out from the theoretical center. I don't want to bend the spoke elbows without some advice first. I'm pretty sure the hub spoke hole diameter is 2.4mm, so the spokes should slide through and sit flush with the hub without any muscle work. Any ideas? Thanks...
I've built a few sets of wheels now, but I still consider myself new to wheelbuilding. This has never happened before.
I've built a few sets of wheels now, but I still consider myself new to wheelbuilding. This has never happened before.
#2
Over the hill
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 24,376
Bikes: Giant Defy, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 998 Post(s)
Liked 1,206 Times
in
692 Posts
I have built many sets of wheels, and had to bend the spoke elbows slightly and gently on most of them. Some of those wheels are still running strong without being trued in the last 10 years, so I don't see why it would be a problem.
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: In a cardboard box by Alki beach.
Posts: 343
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I ran into the same thing a few days ago. I was building with an XT hub and 2-1.8-2 spokes. I also didn't notice this as much in the previous few pairs of wheels I have built.
My local wheel guru, and at least one wheel building guide I have read - don't remember which one, Sheldon Brown's maybe - say to bend the spoke as flat against the hub as you can get it and give each spoke a rap or two with a rubber mallet to get it's bend as flat to the hub flange as you can. This actually makes a dent in the hub flange for the spoke more than it dents the spoke. This is normal and the main reason why a used hub is best rebuilt to the same spoke pattern.
The spoke should bend flat against the hub under tension in time anyway. This way, you get the settling in out of the way at build time so there's less to readjust later. Also, if the spoke does not sit against the flange, it can flex and fatigue at the bend, increasing the chance of spoke failure there in time.
My local wheel guru, and at least one wheel building guide I have read - don't remember which one, Sheldon Brown's maybe - say to bend the spoke as flat against the hub as you can get it and give each spoke a rap or two with a rubber mallet to get it's bend as flat to the hub flange as you can. This actually makes a dent in the hub flange for the spoke more than it dents the spoke. This is normal and the main reason why a used hub is best rebuilt to the same spoke pattern.
The spoke should bend flat against the hub under tension in time anyway. This way, you get the settling in out of the way at build time so there's less to readjust later. Also, if the spoke does not sit against the flange, it can flex and fatigue at the bend, increasing the chance of spoke failure there in time.
#4
Mechanic/Tourist
Above comments are correct. It's much better to have a thick flange than a thin one, but you need to get the spokes seated as much as possible when building to lessen later adjustments.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
Above comments are correct. It's much better to have a thick flange than a thin one, but you need to get the spokes seated as much as possible when building to lessen later adjustments.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I've stress relieved all of my previous wheels. This wheel threw me for a loop because the spokes needed a lot more "coaxing" to sit flush with the hub flange. I was hesitant at first to put so much muscle into bending the spokes. Once some people chimed in that the extra force wouldn't harm the spokes, I finished up the wheel with no problems. Thanks for your help.