Opening a bottom bracket w/o special tools
#1
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Opening a bottom bracket w/o special tools
My bikes are getting older, and I don't recall ever cleaning and repacking their bottom brackets.
Now, the bike repair guides mention the tools that are required for the job, such as crank removers and those tools that actually unscrew the front of the brackets.
Is there a way to do this job without any specialized tools? I'm not ruling their purchase out, but I'd have to save up for a bit. I know that doing things the right way is often best, but like to know about other alternatives if possible. I have a decent assortment of hand tools for working on my cars.
Thank you,
-Bill
Now, the bike repair guides mention the tools that are required for the job, such as crank removers and those tools that actually unscrew the front of the brackets.
Is there a way to do this job without any specialized tools? I'm not ruling their purchase out, but I'd have to save up for a bit. I know that doing things the right way is often best, but like to know about other alternatives if possible. I have a decent assortment of hand tools for working on my cars.
Thank you,
-Bill
#2
Senior Member
If you didn't care about scratching the crank arms, you could probably pull them off with a 2 arm gear puller. The bottom bracket lockring could probably be loosened with a hammer and punch although you will butcher the lockring so the point where the real tool will no longer fit and you risk hitting the bottom bracket shell. Retightening would have the same effect. Bike tools are so cheap compared to automotive specialty tools that it hardly ever makes sense to not use the real tool.
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Originally Posted by WilliamK1974
Now, the bike repair guides mention the tools that are required for the job, such as crank removers and those tools that actually unscrew the front of the brackets.
Is there a way to do this job without any specialized tools? I'm not ruling their purchase out, but I'd have to save up for a bit. I know that doing things the right way is often best, but like to know about other alternatives if possible. I have a decent assortment of hand tools for working on my cars.
Is there a way to do this job without any specialized tools? I'm not ruling their purchase out, but I'd have to save up for a bit. I know that doing things the right way is often best, but like to know about other alternatives if possible. I have a decent assortment of hand tools for working on my cars.
As for the bottom bracket cups and lockrings: you can usually get away with a large adjustable wrench, and a hammer and old flathead screwdriver. Having the appropriate lockring wrench will cost about $15, and makes the job faster and easier. But you CAN tighten and loosen the lockring with a hammer and screwdriver... do it SLOWLY and carefully. Frankly, I did about 10 cup-and-cone BBs this way without problems, then finally bought a lockring wrench.
By the way, modern cartridge BBs mostly use the same universal tool which is only $5-10. It may well be worth it to junk your old C&C BBs in favor of new ones, since you can get a looong-lasting maintenance free square-taper cartridge BB for $15-20.
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+1
(except for the bit about replacing the BB with a cartridge)
Pipe wrench (or - not as good - big channel-lock) is better than the hammer/screwdriver for the lockring. And since you can use it one-handed, it makes setting the pre-load much more easy and accurate.
(except for the bit about replacing the BB with a cartridge)
Pipe wrench (or - not as good - big channel-lock) is better than the hammer/screwdriver for the lockring. And since you can use it one-handed, it makes setting the pre-load much more easy and accurate.
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Originally Posted by DMF
+1
(except for the bit about replacing the BB with a cartridge)
(except for the bit about replacing the BB with a cartridge)
Pipe wrench (or - not as good - big channel-lock) is better than the hammer/screwdriver for the lockring. And since you can use it one-handed, it makes setting the pre-load much more easy and accurate.
#6
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Not sure why this never occured to me, but I didn't know that special bike tools were so much cheaper than their auto counterparts. It's not like I've looked at them before.
So a cartridge BB should be available for pretty much any bike, including older ones?
So a cartridge BB should be available for pretty much any bike, including older ones?
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William-- hopefully your bike has a standard "english" thread BB rather than french or italian or "old raleigh" or something. If it's a standard BB threading then almost any BB will fit in, and then you'll want to pick a square-taper one.
I'm a fan of the cartridge BB's because they are so easy to put in and they do last. I paid $5 for a cartridge-BB tool and $5 for a crank puller. $10 well spent, if you ask me. It's challenging or impossible to substitute other tools for those two without damaging your parts, but the pipe-wrench-on-old-BB sounds like a good idea to me. (especially if you're going to get rid of the old BB).
I'm a fan of the cartridge BB's because they are so easy to put in and they do last. I paid $5 for a cartridge-BB tool and $5 for a crank puller. $10 well spent, if you ask me. It's challenging or impossible to substitute other tools for those two without damaging your parts, but the pipe-wrench-on-old-BB sounds like a good idea to me. (especially if you're going to get rid of the old BB).
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Originally Posted by cerewa
William-- hopefully your bike has a standard "english" thread BB rather than french or italian or "old raleigh" or something. If it's a standard BB threading then almost any BB will fit in, and then you'll want to pick a square-taper one.
I'm a fan of the cartridge BB's because they are so easy to put in and they do last. I paid $5 for a cartridge-BB tool and $5 for a crank puller. $10 well spent, if you ask me.
I'm a fan of the cartridge BB's because they are so easy to put in and they do last. I paid $5 for a cartridge-BB tool and $5 for a crank puller. $10 well spent, if you ask me.
You really aren't going to remove cranks without considerable effort or damaging somethign wtihout a crank puller. And since the tool is $10 or less there really is NO effing reason not to buy it.
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Originally Posted by DMF
+1
(except for the bit about replacing the BB with a cartridge)
(except for the bit about replacing the BB with a cartridge)
#10
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Originally Posted by cerewa
William-- hopefully your bike has a standard "english" thread BB rather than french or italian or "old raleigh" or something. If it's a standard BB threading then almost any BB will fit in, and then you'll want to pick a square-taper one.
I'm a fan of the cartridge BB's because they are so easy to put in and they do last. I paid $5 for a cartridge-BB tool and $5 for a crank puller. $10 well spent, if you ask me. It's challenging or impossible to substitute other tools for those two without damaging your parts, but the pipe-wrench-on-old-BB sounds like a good idea to me. (especially if you're going to get rid of the old BB).
I'm a fan of the cartridge BB's because they are so easy to put in and they do last. I paid $5 for a cartridge-BB tool and $5 for a crank puller. $10 well spent, if you ask me. It's challenging or impossible to substitute other tools for those two without damaging your parts, but the pipe-wrench-on-old-BB sounds like a good idea to me. (especially if you're going to get rid of the old BB).
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Very informative post. I've got a bike an 89' Cannondale road bike, I have no way to know how much it has been ridden, but I think it is safe to say that the bottom bracket has never been replaced. Is it safe to say that the the BB is probably due to be replaced? Are there any symptoms to look for that can clue me in to a worn out bb?
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Originally Posted by WilliamK1974
Not sure why this never occured to me, but I didn't know that special bike tools were so much cheaper than their auto counterparts. It's not like I've looked at them before.
So a cartridge BB should be available for pretty much any bike, including older ones?
So a cartridge BB should be available for pretty much any bike, including older ones?
As has been pointed out, cartridge BBs are easy to find for English-thread bikes (which would include essentially any bike made in the US, Britain, Japan, Taiwan, or China). If you have an Italian-made bike, it almost certainly has an Italian-thread BB, which you MAY be able to find a cartridge BB for. If you have a French or Belgian bike, then you're pretty much SOL... the only cartridge BBs for these bikes are the very expensive Phil Wood models
For the details of the different BB threadings, see https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom (English thread is mechanically superior, and is used in nearly all bikes produced today.)
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
If you have an Italian-made bike, it almost certainly has an Italian-thread BB, which you MAY be able to find a cartridge BB for.
You can find plenty of currently made Italian threaded cartridge bottom brackets in square taper, Octalink, ISIS and the various external bearing types. Your LBS may not stock them but they are easy to order from QBP and other distributors or mail order from Performance, Colorado Cyclist and others.
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Originally Posted by HillRider
A couple of observations. A lot of Italian makers have converted to English threading in the past 10 - 15 years so even an Italian frame may be English threaded. Older ones, say pre-1990, are almost certainly Italian. I think the boutique Italian makers (Colnago, etc.) still use Italian threads but I can't confirm this.
Originally Posted by HillRider
You can find plenty of currently made Italian threaded cartridge bottom brackets in square taper, Octalink, ISIS and the various external bearing types. Your LBS may not stock them but they are easy to order from QBP and other distributors or mail order from Performance, Colorado Cyclist and others.
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Originally Posted by smendoza
Very informative post. I've got a bike an 89' Cannondale road bike, I have no way to know how much it has been ridden, but I think it is safe to say that the bottom bracket has never been replaced. Is it safe to say that the the BB is probably due to be replaced?
Are there any symptoms to look for that can clue me in to a worn out bb?
2) If it's sealed cart, check for play, if there is unit needs to be tossed and replaced
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When it comes to bottom brackets, the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" applies.
If you don't have symptoms of a problem, don't worry about it. If the BB makes "crunch crunch" noises, is too loose, or doesn't allow the cranks to spin easily when pushed by hand, then you need to replace or adjust.
If you don't have symptoms of a problem, don't worry about it. If the BB makes "crunch crunch" noises, is too loose, or doesn't allow the cranks to spin easily when pushed by hand, then you need to replace or adjust.
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Well, it's not like a cup-and-cone bb is a lifetime purchase. Even with good maintenance, the spindle and cups do pit and score and are discarded after a reasonable service life, ...
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