Originally Posted by noglider (Post 12733794)

My understanding is that talc us an urban myth. It's a benign byproduct of the manufacturing, and at some point, cyclists thought that it's an improvement. I've never used it. Would I have fewer pinches if I used it? Well, that would be hard to measure, wouldn't it? I'd need to sample a whole lot of tube changes, with and without talc, and take a tally. In theory, if I know what I'm doing, I would never pinch a tube while installing it.

Originally Posted by rpenmanparker (Post 12325308)

In extreme cases I am sure these techniques would come in very handy. I find most times resorting to a vise type device isn't necessary. In my experience the force generated across one hand is all that is necessary. It is amazing how much force you can exert between you palm and fingers, as much or more than with your arms in many cases. So if you arrange the pedal wrench so that it is about 30 degrees (more or less) to the "tight" side of the crank arm (how many degress depends on how big your hands are) and grasp both the wrench and crank arm in the same hand or even both hands, you can usually squeeze the wrench toward the crank arm and loosen it even in very stuck situations just by "closing" your hand. Easier of course on the non-drive side where the chain rings don't get in the way. But this does work on both sides. Good luck.

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 12756296)

Talc does help with installation... keeps the tube and tyre from sticking and often helps with seating the bead on the rim.

Originally Posted by rmfnla (Post 5116817)

Geez, 36 posts and nothing about making sure the beer is cold (& plentiful).

What's the wrenching world coming to..?

Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops (Post 5119787)

From another thread: you patched your tube, but the patch leaks? It wouldn't stick properly (or at all)?

I had a few patches that wouldn't stick. Then I learned to clean the tube around the puncture with alcohol, and since then, all patches lasted forever. If you don't have a little bottle with alcohol with you while riding, a solution might be a little packed wet tovel (like those you get in the plane). Make sure the area around the puncture is perfectly dry and, above all, without grease. Any amount of grease or dust will cause the patch not to stick.

Also, remember to wait for the glue (or "cement") to dry, before placing the patch over it, and then push on it like you're possessed.

Originally Posted by Danny1962 (Post 13023436)

I use a small spring loaded woodworking clamp to hold it together for a while. I like the towelette idea. In fact I'm going to put some into my tool kit now!

Originally Posted by Myosmith (Post 12788775)

Just found another handy tip, a popsicle (craft) stick is the perfect width to clean crud out from between you rear sprockets for 5-7 speed rear cogsets. I just sanded the right curve into the tip and it worked great. I don't have anything with more than seven rear sprockets but I suspect it would fit even narrower sprockets as there is still some free space. The sticks are just long enough to clean the big cogs without raking your fingers.

Originally Posted by I_bRAD (Post 5062180)

When you're attaching your cleats to your shoes, especially with MTB shoes, fill the hex holes with melted wax (just drip it off a candle). Then, when it's time to tighten/adjust/replace your cleats all you have to do is melt the wax out with a lighter rather then spend 10mins chipping out 2 years worth of well packed clay.

Originally Posted by vredstein (Post 13405051)

When building wheels, keep a couple alligator clips on hand. We've all dropped the spoke wrench, answered the phone, or checked out the MILF walking past the window only to discover the wheel has rotated in the stand while your eyes were diverted, and you have lost track of which spoke you were working on. As soon as you drop the spoke wrench, attach the clip to the exact spoke you were working on. Then you can take your eyes off the wheel, find the wrench, and if the wheel has rotated in the stand, you just find the spoke with the clip attached, and you haven't lost your place. The clip also works well for detecting spoke twist.

Originally Posted by rpenmanparker (Post 13405467)

Bravo! I have always used masking tape "flags" for both indexing the spoke that I was working on and detecting spoke twist. The alligator clip is much simpler, not as messy, and easier to apply remove. Thanks.

Originally Posted by vredstein (Post 13409696)

I started with masking tape on every spoke, but after rubbing my fingernails raw removing the tape and the residue, I vowed, "Never again". I mostly use the clip only when I have to take my eyes off the wheel. Using it on every spoke as I turn can be a pain repeatedly attaching and removing. I now use a black felt tip to mark the spokes at a spot directly on the line of site to detect twist in the initial phases of building when you're turning each spoke to get it up to tension. Cleans up easy with a rag and alcohol. Once tension is up and I'm making small adjustments to scattered spokes, I'll use the clip.

Originally Posted by Myosmith (Post 12728716)

Shake n Bake your inner tubes. Well, OK, don't bake them but put them in a gallon ziplock bag with a small amount of talc, seal the bag and give it a good shake in several directions. Carefully pull the tube out of the bag tapping the excess talc back into the bag as you go. Viola, a perfectly powdered tube ready for installation with no mess, no dust in the air, on the floor, or on you. Wastes a lot less talc than trying to powder the tube by hand and you can save the talc in the bag for another tube.