The only way I've ever seen a crank puller strip the threads of a crank is by not threading the crank puller in far enough. 3-4 Revolutions just won't do the trick, thread it in about as far as it will go, and you will never strip the threads. Sometimes you need a crescent wrench to do this, and definitely grease the threads.

Not only did I grease the threads, I used a crescent wrench to get the puller into the arm as far as possible (and it was properly seated in the threads). Still stripped. Gear puller didn't work either. Neither did the hot water/hammer trick or riding (a lot) with the bolt loose.

Took it to the LBS today, even the mechanic struggled to get it off. That crank arm was seized on the spindle real proper (I got the bike from a friend so I had no part in installing the cranks). Anyway, I just finished swapping the chain rings onto the new crank and installing it, so everything is good now.

Really? I fail to see how a puller, typcially designed for pulling forces in the 1000's of pounds, could not pull the crank arm off. Could you not get it to grab properly?

Due to the tight clearance between the crankarm and BB-cup, sometimes it's not possible to wrap the curved jaws of a gear-puller behind the crankarm. Most modern cranks have 3-4mm gap max and many I've seen have about 2mm.

What I've used in cases with stripped extractor threads is to use an 18" motorcycle tyre-iron. The straight-end is similar to a big screwdriver blade (with a slight bend). It fits perfectly into that tight gap between the crankarm and bb-cup. The bent tip faces outwards, the bend rests on the BB-cup, just push the lever towards the inside and >POP< it squeezes the crankarm out instantly. Takes less than 5-seconds per sides.

even if the threads for the crank puller are damaged, VAR and STEIN make taps that allow you to cut new threads. of course, this meant you had to have the extractor that comes with the tool, or buy self extracting crank bolts with matching threads (VAR and Stein cut different thread pitches).
now this brings me to my problem: i need to access the BB adjustable cup so i go to remove my left crank. in so doing, i stripped the original crank extracting threads (i'm pretty sure i installed the tool properly), pulled out my VAR crank thread tap set, cut new threads, and promptly stripped them! has any pro mechanic had a crank that just wouldn't come off? and what would you do if you were in my situation?

I liked this thread better the first time I saw it, when it was called "how can i remove a chain without a chain tool"?

Ive used pb blaster and a ball joint seperator in the past. It worked but I wouldn't try it again and I don't think most people have a ball joint seperator lying around.

I hate taking heat for opening new threads, but here goes. Got this really funny fuji marlboro folding mb that I actually started mountain biking on, though I beat it up in the process. Anyway, I just made it a singlespeed with using the original triple crankset. And for some reason they got bent really terribly. So I take off the little cap covering the threads for the crankset and its completely stripped. The chain puller just goes in sideways. I'm not interested in salvaging the crankset, so I don't care if its completely destroyed in the process. Any help?

Maybe if you used a crank puller instead???

Is it a cup & cone BB or cartridge?
If cartridge then hack saw.

This is a windup, right?

I'd never attempt to remove a crank by hammering. You run the risk of brinelling the bearing surfaces that will turn out to be more expensive than a £5.00 peice of kit that will last you for years.

You could always use a pickle fork and hammer/mallet. it is a sort of two pronged fork with a wedge shape. you put it on the outside of the crank where it is connected and hit the other end. it is designed for taking off pressed parts (usually on cars) it should't do any damage to the crank or bike itself. good luck from 5 years later. :)

If one arm comes off I have had success a few times, if it is a non-cartridge type BB, by unthreading the bb cup from the frame and pull the whole axle/crank/bb cup assembly out. Then use a length of sturdy pipe similar in diameter to the bb cup, put axle into pipe so bb cup rests on pipe, place other end of pipe on concrete floor and then using a large flat drift or punch and hammer, hit the axle out of the crank arm. Nothing is usually damaged this way.


As an observation I have seen more stripped puller threads in the last few years than I ever used to. Maybe the alloys aren't as strong as they used to be or the Taiwanese robotic machining is not acurate enough. Some of the new cranks have contoured arms that seem to reduce the amount of full threads allowing the puller to have only 3 or 4 complete threads.
I have found the best method is to thread puller all the way in til it stops and then back it off a 1/4 turn. Then pull crank off. Carefully!

1. The OP bought a gear puller over a year ago.
2. FBinNY has posted a fix that works pretty much every time if the threads are damaged:
Here's a link to Jacobs removal wedges (http://www.jacobschuck.com/product_details.asp?pid=29) that will remove those cranks easily and with zero damage. They're cheap and work so well that you might as well continue using the cranks as if they were undamaged.
3. I doubt that 95% of the stripped out puller threads are from anything more than carelessness.

I think "pulling forces in the 1000's of pounds" is a bit optimistic. The little cheaper gear pullers might pull with a couple hundred lbs of force before bending. Their man value (in their intended use) is that they pull the gear straight off.

One automotive tool like this is called a "ball-joint fork".
The problem with using a pair of ball-joint forks (or the Jacobs wedges) is that you are still risking brinelling the bearings, since they wouldn't be pushing against the spindle but against the BB cup.

Spend the few bucks and get the puller its so much easer and faster by the time you get it heated and try, I say try!!! you could have it off before you even start to think on how you want to attack it with heat LOL.
Same with any other method you can think of it will be off before you start thinking on how to start.

I have to replace a crank/BB combination and am switching to square-taper.
Do you (anybody) put anything on the spindle to keep the crank arms from sticking?

I notice that a lot of people in youtube bicycle-mechanic videos use grease, but the auto parts store does sell real, actual anti-seize compound.... :|

I use anti-seize compound it helps but as far as the OP question goes the puller is still needed as it wedges on tight so its still one really good just wont bond together if left for years untouched, just remove once every few years and no need to worry about it.

This does work.
 

I used a gear puller yesterday. It does work, 2 jaw is better, and on the crank side I used a battery terminal puller with a pair of 5/16th J bolts with the heads cut off a bit. Once you get it nice and tight, you give that center bolt a nice tap with a hammer and splat it goes.
Thanks.
Srinath.

Wow, this thread has more lives than a cat.

Removal
 

Just for future reference... U can remove the crank arms without a puller. I used a regular automotive pickle fork. I sprayed the tapered spindle in back and front with PB Blaster penetrating oil, and let sit for 2 hours. then put the pickle fork between the crank chain gears and the fixed retaining ring, and with a 4lb hammer, 3 hard strikes to the pickle fork, it came right off!

If you purchase a cheap puller, you will stand about an 80% chance of stripping the threads on the bike! However, a Pickle fork works great! 3 hard strikes on the pickle fork with a 4lb hammer, and it comes right off!! Just make sure to spray that tapered head front and back with some PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple ours, or even over night if you like!

Some cranks do not have clearance for a gear puller's arms to reach behind the crank; e.g. low-end MTB cranks with riveted chainrings.

this was a old zombie thread..... not really cool to open these up. Create a new thread if there is a need