Loctite 262
08-14-07, 08:48 PM
#1
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Loctite 262
I'm replacing spokes on a Velomax wheel and the instructions are very clear on needing Loctite 262 thread locker on the hub side threads. I've tried Lowes, Home Depot, and one auto parts supply place and none of them have had it. They have 242 Blue and 271 Red, but not 262.
Any idea where I would have luck finding this? There are a few hardware stores to try nearby, but anything else? Is this particular formulation used for something specific that would point me to a supplier?
Now I know why Velomax/Easton wheels are such a pain to deal with. To be fair though, first Velomax then Easton have been very easy to deal with and very responsive. Every company should do business like them.
Any idea where I would have luck finding this? There are a few hardware stores to try nearby, but anything else? Is this particular formulation used for something specific that would point me to a supplier?
Now I know why Velomax/Easton wheels are such a pain to deal with. To be fair though, first Velomax then Easton have been very easy to deal with and very responsive. Every company should do business like them.
08-14-07, 09:17 PM
#3
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I just dealt with this over the weekend. Ideally you should use spoke freeze, which is a special loctite sold by DT proline which supposedly will saturate through any lube in the threads.
I'm a rookie wheel builder, but talking with numerous local builders I used chain lube on the OUTSIDE of the nipples between the rim, and when the job was done dribbled just the smallest amount of Loctite 242.
I was using DT swiss comp DB 2.0/1.8 spokes and was able to turn the nipples with just a little effort the following day. I only used 242 because I was in a pinch - if you can get better products, go for it. Many people say they don't use any thread locker or adhesive, so don't feel pressure.
I'm a rookie wheel builder, but talking with numerous local builders I used chain lube on the OUTSIDE of the nipples between the rim, and when the job was done dribbled just the smallest amount of Loctite 242.
I was using DT swiss comp DB 2.0/1.8 spokes and was able to turn the nipples with just a little effort the following day. I only used 242 because I was in a pinch - if you can get better products, go for it. Many people say they don't use any thread locker or adhesive, so don't feel pressure.
08-14-07, 09:32 PM
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Try an industrial supplier such as grainger, mcmaster-carr or maybe a bearing supply house
https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rch&L1=Loctite
https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rch&L1=Loctite
08-14-07, 09:45 PM
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Is that the penetrating grade product? It's designed to be used after tensioning the spokes. If so, I found some at AutoZone but mine's Permetex brand.
08-15-07, 04:21 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
This isn't being used on the nipples, it is used at the hub. Velomax wheels have spokes threaded at both ends. One side screws into the hub and needs to be locked in with Loctite 262 and allowed to cure for a day. Then you build the wheel and if you want can use a different loctite at the nipple.
I was hoping to find it locally, but I'll order it if I have to. It looks from the google link provided to be packaged for retail display. I just didn't think that it would be hard to find.
I was hoping to find it locally, but I'll order it if I have to. It looks from the google link provided to be packaged for retail display. I just didn't think that it would be hard to find.
08-15-07, 06:33 AM
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Loctite 262 is the lowest strength of the various "red" grades but is much stronger than 242. It's recommended for bolts 16 mm diameter and larger so it will really lock the spokes at the hub. It's rated as "fully removable" but I expect it would require heat if you ever had to replace a spoke.
08-15-07, 06:34 AM
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Sorry for the double posting. The forum didn't acknowledge the first one so I tried again and that didn't seem to work either so I gave up. I just found that both actually posted.
Last edited by HillRider; 08-15-07 at 10:06 AM.
08-15-07, 07:48 AM
#10
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That's the idea. The spokes need to be locked at the hub so when you tighten the nipples the spokes don't spin at the hub. And yes, heat is needed to remove them, although I didn't know that at the time . It is all in the Easton instructions.
All I have to do now is find the stuff.
All I have to do now is find the stuff.
