Respacing a hub
#1
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Respacing a hub
I'm in the Clydesdale category and I'm tired of having problems with my rear wheel. I am looking at tandem wheelsets as I figure that they're designed to carry more weight than I'll ever ask them to. One wheelset I'm looking at in particular is built around Shimano XT HF08 hubs, which is spaced at 145 mm in the back. The website selling them says that the rear hub can be respaced to 135 mm (what my current frame is) without much fuss. However, they won't tell me how and just stated that I should take the rear wheel to a bike shop and pay them to respace the wheels. I'm a DIY type of guy when it comes to bikes and I'd rather do it myself. I have an idea of how to do this, but I figured I'd just run it by some people who know what they're doing before I potentially shoot myself in the foot.
Here's a diagram of the hub: https://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1325/fhhf08ky3.png
I think that I should remove the 6.5 mm left axle spacer (14), the 3.7 mm right axle spacer (7) and swap the 2.3 mm washer on the right (4) and the 1.0 mm washer on the left (13). This should bring the hub spacing down to 134.8 mm spacing. Is this good enough? Should I go out and get a 2.5 mm washer instead of reusing (4)? Is this entire plan harebrained and doomed to failure?
Here's a diagram of the hub: https://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1325/fhhf08ky3.png
I think that I should remove the 6.5 mm left axle spacer (14), the 3.7 mm right axle spacer (7) and swap the 2.3 mm washer on the right (4) and the 1.0 mm washer on the left (13). This should bring the hub spacing down to 134.8 mm spacing. Is this good enough? Should I go out and get a 2.5 mm washer instead of reusing (4)? Is this entire plan harebrained and doomed to failure?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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Nope, you have the correct concept. But I would first make sure the spacing on the drive side is correct as far as chainline goes, then I would just fill in on the non-drive side to get it to 135mm. I would just go to a hardware store and get a bunch of washers. Won't be pretty, but it will be functional.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#4
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
#5
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
You will have to cut the axle to fit so it doesn't stick out beyond the dropout faces and a 135 mm hub normally uses a 146 mm long axle.
They are easy to cut with a hacksaw or Dremmel cut-off wheel and then file the cut end smooth and flat. Thread on a locknut before cutting as it will "chase" and clean up the cut end when you remove it.
They are easy to cut with a hacksaw or Dremmel cut-off wheel and then file the cut end smooth and flat. Thread on a locknut before cutting as it will "chase" and clean up the cut end when you remove it.




