Adding length to a chain....
Last week, the last day before a century, I broke my chain so I ran out and got the only chain my LBS had, a Dura Ace for my 10 speed Ultegra setup. I would have liked to change my cassette at the same time, but there wasn't one in stock. As some said, I'm getting some skipping cause the rear cassette is a bit worn. So anyhow I now have my hands on a new cassette - a 12-27 instead of my current 12-25.
So I have a new chain on my bike that was fitted for my 12-27, I suppose I'll new to add a link or two for my new 12-27. The Dura Ace chain that I put in came with 2 pins - the type you brake off when inserted properly. So my question is - should I pop out the pin I just installed a week ago and reuse it (along w/ a new pin) or should I pop out an original pin further away from the new pin and reuse it? Or should I try to see if the LBS has an extra pin and use that? Thanks, Bob |
Don't reuse a pin. Option 3.
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Switching from 12-25 to 12-27 shouldn't require a longer chain assuming it was sized properly to begin with. I regularly swap between 21s, 23s, 25s, and even a 28 for mountain climbs with no problem. The RD takes up any extra slack.
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I have a '05 Fuji Team triple 53-39-30 that came with a 12-25. Went to a 12-27, no chain change, no problem. This chain is 108 links, the rear der is long cage Ultegra.
I now also have a '06 Fuji Team RC 53-39 that came with a 12-23. I want to put a 12-27 on it. Tried the 12-27 wheel off the other bike and NO WAY will it do big,big. I would tear off the rear der it is so tight. This chain is 106 links, the rear der is DuraAce short cage. So I need to add a link also. I often crosschain to big/big without thinking about it. I only need to add 1 link I think, and I hate to put the two pins required right next to each other. I think I will replace 3-4 links with new ones I have left over from a previous chain change, amd make it 108 links. Is there a better way to add 1 link to a chain? |
By "link" I presume you mean a 1" section. Both inner and outer half-links.
Putting two replacement pins next to each other** is not a problem (so long as you don't make sticky/tight links, which would be a problem anywhere). Just be sure that you never replace a replacement pin. **I.e. on adjacent links. You should never use two replacement pins on the same half-link. The pin goes in the lead hole of the outer half-link — (A) in the diagram. Also, add a longer piece, then re-measure the chain and trim the new addition. Due to differences in frame geometry you can't use another bike as a template. While you're at it, this is a good time to add a Wipperman Connex or Superlink III to your chain. Be sure to get the right size. There are several different versions for 10-speed chains. |
Well, in preparing to do this, I am looking for the pins. This HAS to be one of the greatest ripoffs, $9.95 for 5 pins at Performance! Jeeze!!!
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That is a rip — double the last price I paid for pins.
Still, if you don't take your chain off very often, it's actually cheaper to use pins than to buy a quick-link. |
So my cassette comes in last night - I replaced the 12-25 with the 12-27. I did not add any links - I used the same chain as my 12-25 (which was put on using Sheldon's method). Anyhow it worked, I could do big-big (53-27) but that's not something I'll likely do. The century is tomorrow & I'll ride a bit carefully when changing gears. And I'll be bringing a chain tool.
Thanks all for your feedback! |
Rather than buying new pins, get a Connex or SRAM super link, which cost about $5. That way you can remove and reinstall the chain anytime you want without having to use a chain tool and replace pines. Makes it much easier to clean your chain as well.
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