Threadless Headset Mess
09-29-07, 12:22 AM
#1
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Threaded Headset Mess
I decided to overhaul the threaded headset on my '94 Cannondale M400, and now I'm very disgruntled.
From the outset, nothing went according to plan. I tried to loosen the locknut by holding the top race in place with a wrench and then turning the locknut counter-clockwise, but all that did was twist the fork to the left, essentially tightening the bearing load.
I finally got the locknut loose by holding the fork steady with my left arm and turning the locknut with my right; but shouldn't I just be able to use the two wrench technique -- one on the top race and one on the locknut?
The keyed washer was in place, so I know that wasn't an issue.
Things get stranger. After I cleaned all the parts and put them back in place, I hand-tightened the top race to the point where there was no more bearing play. But when I tried to tighten the locknut, I realized that the locknut's inner lip was bottoming-out on the steerer tube before it could contact the top race.
At that point, the fork was loose in the headtube. Yet when I turned the top race counter-clockwise against the locknut -- which I thought would create even more looseness -- the headset actually got tighter.
Can anybody help me with what's going on here? Thanks.
From the outset, nothing went according to plan. I tried to loosen the locknut by holding the top race in place with a wrench and then turning the locknut counter-clockwise, but all that did was twist the fork to the left, essentially tightening the bearing load.
I finally got the locknut loose by holding the fork steady with my left arm and turning the locknut with my right; but shouldn't I just be able to use the two wrench technique -- one on the top race and one on the locknut?
The keyed washer was in place, so I know that wasn't an issue.
Things get stranger. After I cleaned all the parts and put them back in place, I hand-tightened the top race to the point where there was no more bearing play. But when I tried to tighten the locknut, I realized that the locknut's inner lip was bottoming-out on the steerer tube before it could contact the top race.
At that point, the fork was loose in the headtube. Yet when I turned the top race counter-clockwise against the locknut -- which I thought would create even more looseness -- the headset actually got tighter.
Can anybody help me with what's going on here? Thanks.
09-29-07, 03:35 AM
#2
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Well, first of all you're working on a threaded head set.
The reason your top nut contacted the steer tube before tightening was that you left something out, a space, a reflector bracket. Go check your work bench.
Why the loose/tight anomaly? Perhaps you did something incorrectly. Check the parktool site for the correct procedure. Work from this... https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127
If all else fails, there's your LBS.
The reason your top nut contacted the steer tube before tightening was that you left something out, a space, a reflector bracket. Go check your work bench.
Why the loose/tight anomaly? Perhaps you did something incorrectly. Check the parktool site for the correct procedure. Work from this... https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127
If all else fails, there's your LBS.
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09-29-07, 10:18 AM
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Were the bearing in retainers or were they cartridges? In either case did you put them back in the proper orientation?
09-29-07, 10:29 AM
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The first problem you probably had was that the locknut had been jammed against the top of the fork, effectively locking it in place, so the top race turned instead of the locknut.
I would also guess that you forgot to put a spacer in when you re-assembled it. From your first problem, I would guess that you need a slightly thicker spacer. 1-2mm.
I would also guess that you forgot to put a spacer in when you re-assembled it. From your first problem, I would guess that you need a slightly thicker spacer. 1-2mm.
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