tommyd49

Trying to remove a bottom bracket off a frame, however I could not get it off just with the tool and socket wrench. So I did what Park Tools says, I screwed the tool in to the axle with a bolt and attempted to remove it with a 12 inch adjustable spanner (it's on the drive side, so turned it clockwise). That didn't work so I mounted it a vice but it still wouldn't budge. Is there any other method of removing it (drilling, or any thing else) or is the frame a write off?

sivat

I apologize if you don't need this sort of advice, but just in case; Are you trying to unscrew it counterclockwise? The drive side cup is reverse threaded and needs be be unscrewed clockwise.

tommyd49

Yes I'm unscrewing it clockwise. However before I was screwing it anti clockwise which doesn't help matters.

vasracer

Spray the bottom bracket with a penetrating oil and let sit then repeat and lightly band with a hammer, this will allow the oil to seep into the threads and break the rust. Try getting a piece of pipe about 3 feet long that will fit over the handle fo the adjustable wrench. This combined with the length of the wrench will you enough leverage to turn the bottom bracket.

Word of advice; don't put too much force in the beginning as this could lead you to strip the threads. Do a gentle bouncing up and down motion until you feel it give.

MudPie

As vasracer suggested, penetrating oil might be your best friend in this situation. I've had good luck with Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil, but many swear by PB Blaster. I hope the bottom bracket wasn't installed with a threadlocking compound.

Just to make sure, did you leave a little, visible gap between the bolt and bottom bracket tool? (I'm just thinking out of the box.) Need to provide a little room so the cup can back out.

I assume if leverage isn't working, you can maybe try an automotive style impact driver. I've never used one on a bicylce, but if all else fails and before you deem the frame a total loss, it might be worth a shot.

vasracer

Another mechanic and I did this once on a bike in which the owner HAD to save the frame. We had trouble keeping the bottom bracket tool in the splines from all the leverage we were putting on it. So, we welded a 28mm bolt(like $5 at hardware store) and used the method I described before. since the bottom bottom was garbage it did not matter and since the cup is steel it formed an incredibly strong weld between BB cup and bolt.

If your do get the bottom bracket out, use some anti-seize on the threads to prevent this from happening in the future.

operator

I think it would be more pertinent to ascertain that the drive side cup is actually reverse threaded.

tommyd49

The non drive side came off when turned anticlockwise so surely the drive side would have to be left threaded?

vasracer

Yes or reverse thread meaning you will need to turn it to the right to unscrew it.

sfrider 

Is it an external cup? Pipe wrench.

biker128pedal

I have used several applications of Power Blaster pentrating lube then I secured the tool in a vise and used the frame as leverage. Once this did not work and I had to cut and drill out the axle then cut the cups. This was a sealed bottom bracket. It was a pain and tool a few evenings but it came out.

Then get a torque wrench and grease for the next installation.

Good Fortune.

vpiuva

No one has wondered if this is a French or Italian BB and RH on the DS?

operator

Actually yeah, the correct answer is No.

Apparently that's what I said. Left side, right hand thread doesn't mean jack crap for the right side.

It could be left hand or right hand on the right side.

https://bayimg.com/hAHHOAaBm

Italian/French = Right hand
Swiss/Whitworth = Left hand

All bb's have left hand thread on left side.

sivat

On the drive side, the cup doesn't move with respect to the spindle.

tommyd49

OK here's my problem now:

I've got the axle and the bearings out. But I'm confused as to what type of bottom bracket I've got. It's not cartridge, because the splines are not connected to the cup. But it can't be an adjustable cup either because it's got the 20 spline thing (however there was a lockring on the drive side). It's just at one end that the spline remain, and I can't get rid of them. Does any one know of a strategy to get it off?

DMF 

Got pictures?