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Changing Ksyrium freehub from Shimano to Campy?

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Changing Ksyrium freehub from Shimano to Campy?

Old 11-01-07, 06:22 PM
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eighty08
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Changing Ksyrium freehub from Shimano to Campy?

I have a set of 06 Ksyrium Elites with a Shimano freehub that I want to use for a Campy setup. I know there are conversion cassettes that allow you to use a Shimano wheel with a Campy drivetrain, but is it possible to change the freehub on the specific model that I have (Elite) so that I can use an actual Campy cassette?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-01-07, 07:20 PM
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Rev.Chuck
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Yes. You need to go to a Mavic dealer and buy a Campy freehub. The install is pretty straight forward.
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Old 11-01-07, 08:56 PM
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A different approach that you may want to consider is keeping the Shimano
freehub (??, cassette??) but use ergo brifters with:
http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.htm

I've never done this and I only know one person who has. They like the setup.
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Old 11-01-07, 10:11 PM
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Its really simple to change out the freehub. I'd recommend going that route than using a conversion cassette or jtek shiftmate.
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Old 11-02-07, 04:16 AM
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Excelsports in Boulder, Colorado have a replacement cassette hub. www.excelsports.com. I did this for a friend and it was easy.
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Old 11-02-07, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck View Post
Yes. You need to go to a Mavic dealer and buy a Campy freehub. The install is pretty straight forward.
I have wondered about this, too: am thinking about buying some new wheels this yr (am running Shimano 9 speed) but may switch in future to Campy 10 speed...So the feehub switchout is pretty easy? How much money?
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Old 11-02-07, 12:32 PM
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The freehub is $50-60
Install is unscrew end cap, remove axle, remove freehub, insert new freehub(you have to pop the pawls in place) insert the axle put the endcap back on. It has been awhile, but that should be about 95% correct.
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Old 11-02-07, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck View Post
The freehub is $50-60
Install is unscrew end cap, remove axle, remove freehub, insert new freehub(you have to pop the pawls in place) insert the axle put the endcap back on. It has been awhile, but that should be about 95% correct.
Correct, but I'll go into more detail. With the '06 Elite you just need two 5mm hex wrenches - one for each end. Just pop them in and unscrew (against each other). When you re-assemble there is no need to be too tight. Pull both ends of the axle out. Now the freehub will come off easily. Remove it carefully and note where the two pawls are. Put your fingers over them to keep them from popping out and then pull the freehub off the rest of the way. Note there is a flatwasher that will now be loose inside of the freehub. This must be installed with the new freehub. While you have the old freehub off, remove the pawls and the rubber environmental seal and clean everything up. Just wipe it out with a rag and use some qtips to get the pawl slots cleaned out. The springs on the pawls are captive nowadays, so they should stay in place when you take them out. It's pretty obvious how the pawls set in the slots. Just make sure the ends of the springs set down in the little anchor holes when you re-assemble. To put it all back together just install the two pawls, put a bead of lube on the pivot end of the pawls, a little drop of lube on the environmental seal(down in the "v", against the hub nose), and a couple of drops of oil on the teeth of the freehub. Put a drop of oil down in the end of the freehub body and drop the flat washer in there. That will make the washer stick in place. Now, squeeze the pawls together with one hand and slide on the freehub with the other. If the freehub does not slide right on then either one of the pawls is not pushed down enough or one of the springs is not in the little anchor hole. When you get the freehub on turn the wheel drive side up and look in the axle hole. The washer may, or may not, be lined up with the hole. If it's not, just slide it over with some small tool. Now insert the drive side end of the axle. Now insert the other axle end and screw them together with your two 5mm's. To do the adjustment of the bearing preload just crank the disc with six holes until it binds and then back off about an eighth of a turn. You can feel when it's right by just turning the axle. You can actually do this adjustment while the wheel is on the bike and Mavic wheels are the only wheels you can do this with. A VERY nice feature.

(While I'm at it) ...

The other common Mavic axle type has a cap on the NDS end of the axle. Just pull this cap off and this will expose a 10mm hex fitting (hard to see, but trust me, it's in there). Then you just need a 10mm and a 5mm for the drive side end. Exact same proceedure as above. That covers about 90% of the Mavic hubs out there. There is another type that has an axle spacer and 13mm flats exposed on the NDS end of the axle. These come on the cheaper wheelsets and, unfortunately, are much tougher to properly rework. Leave these to the LBS, as there is a very specific proceedure requiring proper torques and "one use" parts.

As far as the "what oil to use?" question, there are three specific types. You can use Mavic oil (available at dealers), Phil's Tenacious, or Pedro's Road Rage. These are mineral oils. If you were to use some synthetic or teflon based oil you can ruin the freehub. Never use anything other than the lubes I listed or any grease in Mavic hubs. The bearings are sealed and there is no need for grease. It will only degrade the performance of the hub.

Fronts need no maintenance except to be kept clean. The only lube in the fronts should be inside the sealed bearings. If you can turn the axle smoothly, then the bearings are OK. When they go bad the axle will feel lumpy. Same for rear bearings.

That's it! There used to be a .pdf file that described all of this on the mavic.com site, but it seems to be gone ;-(
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