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Tight tire install... tips?

Old 01-06-08, 10:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Moose
I always start at the valve. I have never failed to complete any tire install.
Do you mean right at the valve, or next to the valve, and work away from it?

- Wil
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Old 01-06-08, 11:05 AM
  #27  
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AT the valve, then work evenly around the rim. The key is to work the bead into the center of the rim and don't have too much air in the tube.
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Old 01-06-08, 11:43 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Moose
AT the valve, then work evenly around the rim. The key is to work the bead into the center of the rim and don't have too much air in the tube.
Exactly! …but the problem starting at the valve, is that the valve takes up space, and prevents the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim!

If you start opposite the valve, then there's nothing to obstruct the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim; you can then work the bead onto the rim, working towards the valve from either direction, so that when you get to the difficult bit (near the valve) the tight part is getting the bead over the edge of the rim and at that point has nothing to do with the valve…

- Wil

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Old 01-06-08, 12:49 PM
  #29  
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As a Mechanic, I have always started at the valve and in 99% of my tire repairs at the shop have never needed any assist to get the tire bead onto the rim. There are combinations of tires and wheels where you need a little assist, and in those cases I've used a Park Pro Tire lever to get things to match up.

We also INSTRUCT our customers using this same method in our Flat Tire Clinics that we have monthly. Our success rate with our customers being able to mount their own tires, tubes, on their own rims is way better that 80%. Many feel that they could never do this by themselves.

Still, on any given day there is a few flat repairs to be done, and that's easy money.
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Old 01-06-08, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Wil Davis
Exactly! …but the problem starting at the valve, is that the valve takes up space, and prevents the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim!

If you start opposite the valve, then there's nothing to obstruct the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim; you can then work the bead onto the rim, working towards the valve from either direction, so that when you get to the difficult bit (near the valve) the tight part is getting the bead over the edge of the rim and at that point has nothing to do with the valve…

- Wil
Please refer to post #25:

Originally Posted by Moose
I always start at the valve. I have never failed to complete any tire install.
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Old 01-07-08, 04:17 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Wil Davis
Exactly! …but the problem starting at the valve, is that the valve takes up space, and prevents the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim!
Not if you push the valve stem in a little so that the bead can get underneath it.
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Old 01-11-08, 02:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dwainedibbly
Not if you push the valve stem in a little so that the bead can get underneath it.
Yup! Seat the bead with the fat part of the tube, where the valve is, first, then work around t' the opposite side, and dismount conversely.

Pushing the valve stem up a bit is critical! At the last bit, as per OP's picture, I hold the rim with my toes, and run finger around to be sure the bead is off the riser at the edge of the rim, then ease 'er over.

The wipe of spit on that last bit usually does it, such that tire iron is not necessary. However, I've found my front tire works around unless I use the thicker cloth type rimstrips (I use the lightweight ones on the back, which gets braking and "awesome" power...), which makes it harder to mount/dismount the tire; there is less room!

Don't forget to wet the last bit!

Around here, when the puncture vine has had a "good" year (like 2006, yikes!! '07 wasn't so bad), one simply must be proficient in tire & tube maintenance at roadside and trailside! ...ask cccorlew
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Old 01-11-08, 03:38 PM
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We Don't Need No Stinking Levers!

Solved my problems.
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Old 01-11-08, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gmcttr
Great link, makes me want to practice changing tires!
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Old 01-11-08, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Toyman991
Hah! It's because they're Michelins. I use Continentals on two of my bikes and they're a breeze to install. The Celeste Michelin Axials on my Bianchi on the other hand...
Hmmm, I've had a terrible time installing Conti Attack/Force onto Campy Eurus wheels. I've since heard that Campy wheels are typically very close to tolerance on the diameter so it's harder to generate any slack.
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Old 01-11-08, 06:13 PM
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1. Make sure that the tire is seated all the way around.
2. Take a break. Let the tire (and your fingers) relax a little.
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Old 07-29-09, 05:13 PM
  #37  
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"…I always start opposite the valve, and work around from both sides to finish at the valve.

Just think about it for a moment; if you start at the valve, the bead of the tyre won't sit as low in the rim because the valve will be in the way; starting from opposite the valve, will make it easier to get the bead as low in the rim as possible, thus making it easier to get the bead over the rest of the rim. "

I dont usually post to these things but this tip helped me so much. theories aside.
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Old 07-29-09, 05:58 PM
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I would rather have tires that are too tight than too loose.
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Old 07-29-09, 08:57 PM
  #39  
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To get the last few inches of a truly nasty tire/rim combination, a VAR tire-jack works great. And they are very lightweight - so tossing one in your kit is easy:

https://cgi.ebay.com/VAR-Super-Tyre-T...4.c0.m14.l1262
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Old 07-30-09, 07:51 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by LastPlace
'TIRE BEAD JACK'..............Check out the bottom of the page.


https://www.koolstop.com/Accessories/index.php


Never met a tire too tough to tame with a 'Tire Bead Jack'.

I like the tool next to it- the Fork Spreader. "Spreads rear fork stays". For those, I suppose with the rare rear fork...
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Old 08-24-09, 05:30 PM
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From personal experience

I know this thread is long dead but for those searching the forums... if you have a tight fitting tire, like I did with an old Continental wire bead tire, try getting a cup of really soapy water and covering the rim and tire where it's tight, and the ends of the levers with.
I was trying to fit a tire for over an hour and it was impossibly tight in the last 2 or 3 inches. Read on the forum that someone suggested soap, and it worked, so try it!
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