pedal rant
I'm a terrible mechanic. I lose stuff, break stuff, or injure myself all the time. I watched the videos and read the pedal chapter (thats how bad I am) and was warned it might be tough. The left pedal wasn't too bad. The right pedal was sprayed with WD40 and heated to no avail. I put my weight into it while the left crank was blocked from moving by the kickstand and my other foot. It finally broke free after multiple slips and bangs. I noticed the top 2-3 threads have blue stuff on them. Do bikes come preassembled or do bike shops put them together?? I can assume the bike shop used LocTite?? Anyway, will clean the crank threads, grease the new spindles and reassemble.
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Has anyone else (non-LBS) worked on this bike since new? Loctite is not needed on pedals, and I don't know why a shop would have done this unless there is an issue with the threads on that crankarm.
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Even if it was blue loctite on the first couple threads, doesn't make it really hard to get off with good leverage and a pedal wrench.
Blue is meant to be removeable and from what it sounds like, wasn't being overdone on the threads either. That being said, I don't think any bike shop would loctite pedals - not needed as #2 said. |
What kind of pedal wrench are you using? It is all about the size of the lever on the tough ones.
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Originally Posted by sumguy
(Post 5973778)
I put my weight into it while the left crank was blocked from moving by the kickstand and my other foot.
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Originally Posted by neilG
(Post 5974657)
Leverage is key. If I can't get a pedal off with one or two tries while still on the bike, I remove the crank and chainring so I can brace it on the bench or floor for leverage.
Long breaker bars on each side will pretty much guarantee the pedals off. |
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
(Post 5973979)
Has anyone else (non-LBS) worked on this bike since new? Loctite is not needed on pedals, and I don't know why a shop would have done this unless there is an issue with the threads on that crankarm.
Originally Posted by barba
(Post 5974023)
What kind of pedal wrench are you using? It is all about the size of the lever on the tough ones.
I was already planning to take it to a buddies house and decided to give it one more try. |
When you install the pedals, use grease on the threads. And the pedals need not be put on gorilla tight. Snug it down, then maybe 1/4 turn more. The threads are in the "self tightening" direction when pedalled.
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Originally Posted by MudPie
(Post 5975308)
When you install the pedals, use grease on the threads. And the pedals need not be put on gorilla tight.
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You are turning it the right way, correct? Both loosen toward the rear of the bike.
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 5974772)
If the non-stuck pedal is already removed from the crankarm, the park klingon tool or a pipe over it will yield much more leverage then you can bracing it against the floor or a bench.
Long breaker bars on each side will pretty much guarantee the pedals off. |
Originally Posted by tellyho
(Post 5976358)
You are turning it the right way, correct? Both loosen toward the rear of the bike.
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Originally Posted by sumguy
(Post 5979775)
got them loose and cleaned. lubricated and installed new clipless/platform pedals without problem. even triple checked left pedal in left crank arm, right in right. not happy, will try clipless again in better weather. didn't unclip at a stop and did a slow mo fall into the street, plus right foot hurt so may need to experiment with cleat adjustment
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Just be careful using to much leverage.You may damage the bottom bracket.
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