Can Going from 12T to 11T Cause Chain to be Too Long?
01-26-08, 11:08 PM
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Can Going from 12T to 11T Cause Chain to be Too Long?
Bought a special rear wheel for my trainer and converted the 12-27 cassette into an 11-27 so I could get a higher gear for climbing intervals on the trainer. Everything is adjusted great when the bike is in the stand, but when I'm in the big front and 11T rear the chain keeps skipping to the point where I can't use the 11T. Could it be the chain length? When I swap back to the wheel with the 12-27 it works great. Any other ideas?
01-26-08, 11:24 PM
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I don't think there should be any problem in chain being too long going from 12t to 11t. I currently interchange between a (12-25)t Shimano Ultegra cassette and an Ultegra (12-27)t cassette without changing chain length.
Regards,
Regards,
01-27-08, 12:41 AM
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Remove it and reverse the direction of the link (but don't change their sides of the chain). Connex links have a reputation for skipping on the 11T cog if they aren't put on in the "correct" direction. By removing it, reversing its direction and reconnecting, you should solve your problem.
BTW, it's "pourquoi?"
BTW, it's "pourquoi?"
01-27-08, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowan
Remove it and reverse the direction of the link (but don't change their sides of the chain). Connex links have a reputation for skipping on the 11T cog if they aren't put on in the "correct" direction. By removing it, reversing its direction and reconnecting, you should solve your problem.
BTW, it's "pourquoi?"
BTW, it's "pourquoi?"
Thanks for the head's up on reversing the links. Never heard that one. Will try it next time I'm on the trainer and see if it does the trick.
01-27-08, 08:49 AM
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If it's not the link, i'm going to wager worn out chain on new cog. Or some other variation (since you didn't tell us exactly how you converted that cassette).
01-27-08, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by operator
If it's not the link, i'm going to wager worn out chain on new cog. Or some other variation (since you didn't tell us exactly how you converted that cassette).
Converted the cassette by removing the 16T. Using the special 11T lockring.
01-27-08, 11:51 AM
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dont you want to be using a close ratio cluster on the trainer? I use a 12-23 on my trainer wheel (12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23) I think 11's are useless on a trainer, just dial up the resistance
01-27-08, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nitropowered
dont you want to be using a close ratio cluster on the trainer? I use a 12-23 on my trainer wheel (12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23) I think 11's are useless on a trainer, just dial up the resistance
01-27-08, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Al1943
With the 11t cog you must use the special 11t lockring. If you use the standard lockring the chain is not able to seat.
Al
Al
01-28-08, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowan
Remove it and reverse the direction of the link (but don't change their sides of the chain). Connex links have a reputation for skipping on the 11T cog if they aren't put on in the "correct" direction. By removing it, reversing its direction and reconnecting, you should solve your problem.
Also, Wipperman makes a Shimano 10-speed specific quik-link if you're running Shimano 10-speed stuff on your rig.
Bob
01-28-08, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
+1. Been there. Done that.
Also, Wipperman makes a Shimano 10-speed specific quik-link if you're running Shimano 10-speed stuff on your rig.
Bob
Also, Wipperman makes a Shimano 10-speed specific quik-link if you're running Shimano 10-speed stuff on your rig.
Bob
02-01-08, 08:52 PM
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Thanks to Rowan
Just to follow up, Rowan nailed it on the head. Reversed the links while keeping them on the same side. Been on the trainer twice since and no more skipping.
Thanks Rowan!!!
Thanks Rowan!!!
02-01-08, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NRRider
Bought a special rear wheel for my trainer and converted the 12-27 cassette into an 11-27 so I could get a higher gear for climbing intervals on the trainer. Everything is adjusted great when the bike is in the stand, but when I'm in the big front and 11T rear the chain keeps skipping to the point where I can't use the 11T. Could it be the chain length? When I swap back to the wheel with the 12-27 it works great. Any other ideas?
My bet is that the lockring is the culprit. Shimano makes special lockrings to go with 11 tooth sprockets, the outer flange has a slightly smaller diameter.
If you use a "standard" lockring with an 11 tooth sprocket, the chain side plates bump into the edge of the lockring, so the chain can't quite bed down into the valleys between the teeth of the sprocket.
Sheldon "Lockrings" Brown
Code:
+------------------------------------------------------------+ | I’ll be appearing in the chorus of the Sudbury Savoyards’ | | Production of Gilbert & Sullivan’s Yeomen of the Guard | | Sudbury, Massachusetts, February 22 through March 1 | | https://sudburysavoyards.org | +------------------------------------------------------------+
02-02-08, 12:40 PM
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The 11T lockring will have "11T" embossed on it near the Shimano labeling. The slightly larger 12T ring has no special indication. Otherwise they're hard to tell apart. It's worth double-checking.
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02-03-08, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DMF
The 11T lockring will have "11T" embossed on it near the Shimano labeling. The slightly larger 12T ring has no special indication. Otherwise they're hard to tell apart. It's worth double-checking.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Nothing to do with chain length.
My bet is that the lockring is the culprit. Shimano makes special lockrings to go with 11 tooth sprockets, the outer flange has a slightly smaller diameter.
If you use a "standard" lockring with an 11 tooth sprocket, the chain side plates bump into the edge of the lockring, so the chain can't quite bed down into the valleys between the teeth of the sprocket.
Sheldon "Lockrings" Brown
My bet is that the lockring is the culprit. Shimano makes special lockrings to go with 11 tooth sprockets, the outer flange has a slightly smaller diameter.
If you use a "standard" lockring with an 11 tooth sprocket, the chain side plates bump into the edge of the lockring, so the chain can't quite bed down into the valleys between the teeth of the sprocket.
Sheldon "Lockrings" Brown
Code:
+------------------------------------------------------------+ | I’ll be appearing in the chorus of the Sudbury Savoyards’ | | Production of Gilbert & Sullivan’s Yeomen of the Guard | | Sudbury, Massachusetts, February 22 through March 1 | | https://sudburysavoyards.org | +------------------------------------------------------------+
Thanks guys but I was running the correct lock ring per post 8. FYI, problem was solved by reversing the Wipperman links per post 14. Thanks anyway.
