Mr. Underbridge

Need to replace my brake cables on my road bike (Tiagra components, 2003 vintage) for the first time. I noticed that the Shimano OEM cable has a smooth ball on the end of the cable on the shifter end, which matches a little socket in the shifter. All the non-shimano aftermarket road cables I've looked at (Aztec, etc) have a cylinder on the end. The packaging here https://www.amazon.com/Aztec-Powerlin.../dp/B000FSSMF2shows this attached to an STI lever, but I'm not particularly trusting.

From the mouseover pictures on the Amazon link, it looks like they try to sell these things as both STI and flat-bar compatible. Does it work as well as the original Shimano cable, or is it a "jack of all trades, master of none" thing?

capwater

Most brake cables have two types of ends, round cyclinder and ball, to accomodate different types of brake levers. You cut off the one not applicable to your specific brake lever.

anti.team

I would recommend staying away from the Powerlink lines. They were a major PITA to install on my bike, and I was only able to do 1 brake and one shifter. I doubt any improvement in shifting or braking would be noticeable, and certainly not a big enough improvement to offset the frustrating install. I don't think they are any better than the bulk cable you buy from your LBS.

Also, with the Powerlinks cables you have to specify ROAD or MTB to get the right cable.

Mr. Underbridge

Thanks for the warning. I wasn't planning on getting the powerlink since it seems overpriced, but when I read the reviews on mtbr.com I couldn't believe how bad they sound. Definitely won't be doing that.

Other than getting stainless cables and maybe teflon-lined housing, anything else to consider in a kit?

anti.team

I got the Powerlink cables pretty cheap at REI. I found out why they were cheap.

The other thing to consider might be Gore-tex cables if you ride in a harsh environment. I'm not sure how much benefit they provide though. For me, none of my bikes are high end (at least not brakes/shifters) so I just buy the bulk stuff from the LBS and it works just fine!

markjenn

Gotta love that Gore-tex for handling cable perspiration.

- Mark

HillRider

Right. It makes for a no-sweat installation.

tellyho

Unless you're going with Nokon, I consider cables and housing disposable; no point in high-zoot. The online shops are comparable to your LBS if you factor in shipping, and your LBS will help you. If you need to replace cables, you probably need to replace housing as well. Probably $15 max for the whole shebang.

Wordbiker

Good suggestions so far. Things to keep in mind:

It's very hard to beat the reliability of standard drawn stainless cables and teflon lined housing. I've used the Gore-tex system before and found that it doesn't cope with poor weather well. The cable sleeves tend to hold water a bit too well, preventing them from drying out. When it condenses inside the clear liner, black mold forms which looks like butt and causes some cable friction.

Even without the sealing system, teflon inner wires can cause problems. With certain brands the teflon has a tendency to scrape off and ball up in side the housing, eventually causing the friction they are alleged to prevent.

Wherever you decide to buy, buy a few cables and extra housing. It's all so inexpensive that you're better off making just one trip instead of going back if you have a problem. If there's no issues, you're set for the next time.

If you buy bulk cables and housing, be sure to pick up ferrules. You can often reuse the old ones, but if they're damaged or deformed, it's not worth the pennies you might save.

Pick up some Dri-slide molybdenum disulfide lube. A bit expensive, but is by far the best cable lube I've ever used. Wicks in like water, dries like graphite and won't build up or attract dirt.

blamp28

What He said!!

markjenn

But I've always heard you use nothing on Teflon-lined cables. Correct?

- Mark

Wordbiker

Correct Mark...which is another reason I don't care for them.

Cable manufacturers have been trying gimmicks for years to set their products apart or create the "need" to upgrade and spend more. My opinion is that the only real improvements have been drawn inner wires (smoother than non-drawn with no penalties other than a few pennies), teflon-lined housings and some of the sealing mechanisms placed in the correct location. However, none of the gimmicks ever seem to work as well as running standard cables and maintaining them regularly on a cost/performance basis. Many mechanisms prevent easy removal of the cables from the split stops, and I avoid those as well (I am referring to quality LBS bicycles, not mass merchant stuff).

All cables should require is the occasional wipedown, inspection and a light lube, replacing when necessary.

markjenn

I didn't know that non-lined cables were even sold much anymore. My LBS certainly doesn't carry anything but teflon-lined ones.

- Mark

Wordbiker

Looking at the previous posts...we are confusing housing with inner wire.

Unlined housing is still made and sold (take a look at a department store bike)...just not by us. It is fine to use lube with lined housing, much of it comes pre-greased with silicone lube anyway. For those that come dry, I prefer a dry lube that doesn't build up. The liner is tough stuff and I have yet to see a lube that will damage it.

Inner wires (the metal cable itself) can be purchased teflon-coated, such as with the Gore-tex cable set. These have a distinctive color, usually white, yellow or black, and come stock on many bicycles. These are the cables that I don't care for. They do work fine and are very smooth for a while, but after the coating starts to wear are no better than bare wires...and sometimes worse.

markjenn

Thanks for clarification. I've never see lined inner cables and it surrpises me that Gore-Tex is used. Seems like an odd (and expensive!) thing to be using to coat a cable with.

I've heard to either run lined-housing/uncoated-cable dry or with a little light lubricant as you say, but avoid grease.

- Mark