sidepull caliper brakes won't stop?
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sidepull caliper brakes won't stop?
The sidepull caliper brakes on one of my bikes are ridiculously weak.
They are far less effective at stopping the bike than shoe leather.
I've read the park tool article on adjusting sidepull calipers and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong adjustment-wise. Pads are relatively aligned, etc, etc. They just don't seem to have any leverage. Am I missing something? Are sidepull caliper brakes supposed to be so pathetic? I actually snapped a brake lever in half trying to skid the tire in a test stop.
They are far less effective at stopping the bike than shoe leather.
I've read the park tool article on adjusting sidepull calipers and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong adjustment-wise. Pads are relatively aligned, etc, etc. They just don't seem to have any leverage. Am I missing something? Are sidepull caliper brakes supposed to be so pathetic? I actually snapped a brake lever in half trying to skid the tire in a test stop.
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The difference between good and bad brake pads can be surprising. You might buy a good pair (Kool Stops are great) and see.
Also, if the bike is older, they might have hardened up some. Some seem to last forever without any noticeable change, and others get hard and slick within a few years. You might take a file and file off the face to get some new material to work with. If they are hard all the way through, then new pads are in order.
jim
Also, if the bike is older, they might have hardened up some. Some seem to last forever without any noticeable change, and others get hard and slick within a few years. You might take a file and file off the face to get some new material to work with. If they are hard all the way through, then new pads are in order.
jim
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The sidepull caliper brakes on one of my bikes are ridiculously weak.
They are far less effective at stopping the bike than shoe leather.
I've read the park tool article on adjusting sidepull calipers and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong adjustment-wise. Pads are relatively aligned, etc, etc. They just don't seem to have any leverage. Am I missing something? Are sidepull caliper brakes supposed to be so pathetic? I actually snapped a brake lever in half trying to skid the tire in a test stop.
They are far less effective at stopping the bike than shoe leather.
I've read the park tool article on adjusting sidepull calipers and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong adjustment-wise. Pads are relatively aligned, etc, etc. They just don't seem to have any leverage. Am I missing something? Are sidepull caliper brakes supposed to be so pathetic? I actually snapped a brake lever in half trying to skid the tire in a test stop.
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"Suck" is such a strong word. The biggest drawback that I can see, at least with modern dual pivot calipers, isn't brakeing power so much as tire clearance.
I'm wondering about the particulars of the OP's bike. That's going to be necessary to make an intelligent start.
I'm wondering about the particulars of the OP's bike. That's going to be necessary to make an intelligent start.
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Are we sure it's the brakes and/or the pads? What are the rims made out of? If they're steel, all other suggestions are moot.
Decent caliper brakes with even mediocre pads and ALUMINUM ALLOY rims, will lock either wheel of any bike at will.
Decent caliper brakes with even mediocre pads and ALUMINUM ALLOY rims, will lock either wheel of any bike at will.
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I have a Diacompe BigDog dual pivot caliper that I just moved to a new bike with alloy rims. I have the same problem. So far I have changed brake levers and double checked pad alignment. Next I plan on roughing up the pads. These brakes worked well on my old single speed so it must be something simple.
#10
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The sidepull caliper brakes on one of my bikes are ridiculously weak.
They are far less effective at stopping the bike than shoe leather.
I've read the park tool article on adjusting sidepull calipers and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong adjustment-wise. Pads are relatively aligned, etc, etc. They just don't seem to have any leverage. Am I missing something? Are sidepull caliper brakes supposed to be so pathetic? I actually snapped a brake lever in half trying to skid the tire in a test stop.
They are far less effective at stopping the bike than shoe leather.
I've read the park tool article on adjusting sidepull calipers and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong adjustment-wise. Pads are relatively aligned, etc, etc. They just don't seem to have any leverage. Am I missing something? Are sidepull caliper brakes supposed to be so pathetic? I actually snapped a brake lever in half trying to skid the tire in a test stop.
Zinn's book of road bike maintainance says that force transfer to the brake is compromised by poor stretchy inner cables, compressible outer cable, and poorly finished cable ends that do not butt rigidly into the brake handle and the caliper arm. If your housing moves and springs back, that is force that your hand is exerting that is lost to the braking action.
So, buy a set of high-quality cables, preferring large diameter die drawn stainless inner cables, good quality teflon-lined outer cables, a set of ferrules for the ends, a good cable/housing cutter, and a 9 inch mill file to file the housing ends square and smooth after you snip-em. Each finished housing end needs a metal ferrule on it, not just for dress, but to seat the end stably into the lever and the caliper.
Also, ensure the caliper is clean and lubed at all the points of motion - the goal here is to have no lost force to friction, binding, flex, stretch, or compression.
It's tedious, but it makes a difference. Then see if "better" pads will make an improvement.
What eventually has made my Trek's Shimanos into pretty good brakes is changing to dark anodized Matrix rims. Why? I dunno. But I do know the cable overhaul and craftsmanlike reassembly makes a big difference.
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Thanks I bet that is my problem. Previous use with this brake was good with different cables. On the current build I skimped and bought some cheap cable set at RiteAid
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My experience is radical, but here goes. Even some pretty high-end brakes can be pathetic in the wrong setup, witness the conflicting comments about Campy sidepulls. My Trek 610 came with Shimano 600 sidepulls, and every time I complained on the list, people told me it shouldn't happen but I should buy better pads. I did. No improvement!
Zinn's book of road bike maintainance says that force transfer to the brake is compromised by poor stretchy inner cables, compressible outer cable, and poorly finished cable ends that do not butt rigidly into the brake handle and the caliper arm. If your housing moves and springs back, that is force that your hand is exerting that is lost to the braking action.
So, buy a set of high-quality cables, preferring large diameter die drawn stainless inner cables, good quality teflon-lined outer cables, a set of ferrules for the ends, a good cable/housing cutter, and a 9 inch mill file to file the housing ends square and smooth after you snip-em. Each finished housing end needs a metal ferrule on it, not just for dress, but to seat the end stably into the lever and the caliper.
Also, ensure the caliper is clean and lubed at all the points of motion - the goal here is to have no lost force to friction, binding, flex, stretch, or compression.
It's tedious, but it makes a difference. Then see if "better" pads will make an improvement.
What eventually has made my Trek's Shimanos into pretty good brakes is changing to dark anodized Matrix rims. Why? I dunno. But I do know the cable overhaul and craftsmanlike reassembly makes a big difference.
Zinn's book of road bike maintainance says that force transfer to the brake is compromised by poor stretchy inner cables, compressible outer cable, and poorly finished cable ends that do not butt rigidly into the brake handle and the caliper arm. If your housing moves and springs back, that is force that your hand is exerting that is lost to the braking action.
So, buy a set of high-quality cables, preferring large diameter die drawn stainless inner cables, good quality teflon-lined outer cables, a set of ferrules for the ends, a good cable/housing cutter, and a 9 inch mill file to file the housing ends square and smooth after you snip-em. Each finished housing end needs a metal ferrule on it, not just for dress, but to seat the end stably into the lever and the caliper.
Also, ensure the caliper is clean and lubed at all the points of motion - the goal here is to have no lost force to friction, binding, flex, stretch, or compression.
It's tedious, but it makes a difference. Then see if "better" pads will make an improvement.
What eventually has made my Trek's Shimanos into pretty good brakes is changing to dark anodized Matrix rims. Why? I dunno. But I do know the cable overhaul and craftsmanlike reassembly makes a big difference.
Complete waste of money.
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100% pure crap. All you need are the standard stainless cables and standard lined brake housing. Teflon and this other "high priced" or stuff with "dura ace" or "campy" on it is all in the name. Even racers don't care what cables or housing is used on their bikes. Seriously.
Complete waste of money.
Complete waste of money.
#15
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100% pure crap. All you need are the standard stainless cables and standard lined brake housing. Teflon and this other "high priced" or stuff with "dura ace" or "campy" on it is all in the name. Even racers don't care what cables or housing is used on their bikes. Seriously.
Complete waste of money.
Complete waste of money.
Where did I mention DuraAce or Campy as a recommendation? I did mention teflon, based on my experience, but anyone with even a touch of physical insight would see that other liner materials are ok. Did I say others will not work? No. I've had decent results with Campy, Modolo, and QBP housings. All are lined, I guess I don't know if they're all Teflon.
Was it the "die drawn?" Again, my experience. Did I say others will not work? No.
You don't agree with finishing the ends of cables? My experience says it makes a difference. If yours doesn't, I don't know why that is.
How about cleaning calipers inside and out and lubing them carefully on reassembly? Do you claim that gritty caliper pivots work just as well as clean ones?
Do you claim that the forces that might distort the brake cable do not come from the hand, and hence do not detract from the force that is transferred to the caliper? If you had paid attention even in high school general science you'd know how forces can be added and don't just come from noplace.
If you think Lennard Zinn is such an ignoramus, please share your letter to the editor of VeloNews about the terrible mistake they've made in putting him on the staff, and letting him publish books with their name on the spine.
Road Fan
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Brake performance
There are many good suggestions here. You may also want to consider using the "braided" or woven housing. Much of the flex or "mush" felt in a wire caliper brake comes from the housing, especially the traditional spiral wrapped variety. The woven housing eliminates much of this movement is transmits more of your pull at the lever to the push of the brake pad.
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Whoa boys!
We still haven't heard exactly what kind of equipment the OP has. What if he's running steel rims and stamped steel calipers? New cables and brake pads aren't going to fix that.
We still haven't heard exactly what kind of equipment the OP has. What if he's running steel rims and stamped steel calipers? New cables and brake pads aren't going to fix that.
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Hey,
Braking may be poor because you may not be using the brakes right. It was the case with me and my cantilevers. I read Mr. Sheldon's article on front-brake braking.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
I did use V-brake for a while. But I gotta say, your technique really makes a bigger difference.
T
Braking may be poor because you may not be using the brakes right. It was the case with me and my cantilevers. I read Mr. Sheldon's article on front-brake braking.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
I did use V-brake for a while. But I gotta say, your technique really makes a bigger difference.
T