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Old 02-22-08, 04:32 PM   #1
esc8engn
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Track Cogs -- anti-seize or no?

recently been having trouble getting threads on my track hubs stripped out on a new wheelset. should i not be using anti-seize or light grease? don't want to destroy another hub, but also feel like i'm about to destroy the threads by overtightening.

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Old 02-22-08, 04:36 PM   #2
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yes, grease the threads. Hubs usually strip because the cog was not put on tight enough initially and later develops slop which turns in to a striped hub.

Grease it, torque it tight and you should be good.
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Old 02-22-08, 04:51 PM   #3
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any idea how much torque? looked through zinn and sheldon, couldn't find anything about it.
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Old 02-22-08, 04:55 PM   #4
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I use Copper Anti-seize. I also invested in a good quality track chain whip and a Hozan lockring tool.

Some of the home mechanic whips out there are just strong enough to hold a cassette to take off a cassette type lockring, but blow up when puttin the torque to install a track cog.

I roll the wheel up against a wall so the wheel is braced on the floor and wall put as much tight on that cog as I can. The lockring gets almost as much.
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Old 02-22-08, 05:00 PM   #5
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The amount of force you're putting on it with your legs will tighten it more than a chain whip. Does the hub use a lockring? I would tighten the cog down plenty, tighten the lockring, ride it really hard for a second, then check the lockring.
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Old 02-22-08, 05:10 PM   #6
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The amount of force you're putting on it with your legs will tighten it more than a chain whip. Does the hub use a lockring? I would tighten the cog down plenty, tighten the lockring, ride it really hard for a second, then check the lockring.
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Old 02-22-08, 05:13 PM   #7
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First thing you need to do is ensure you're using quality components.
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Old 02-22-08, 05:14 PM   #8
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urban knight ^^i actually did just that and found the cog had become slightly loose again on the new (identical) wheel, so i took to basically standing on my chain whip, and found that it did tighten up significantly after a quick ride.

* on inspection of the first, wrecked hub, i can see that the area where cog presses against the hub body (just inside the threads) are not machined particularly well, and are actually covered by the white paint(!) in this tiny area i can see that the paint is crushed away from tightening and riding.
i'm thinking that the deterioration of the paint allowed plenty of room for the cog to be moved back and forth until the lockring failed.
also explains why i've never had any trouble with previous, higher end wheels. *

for the record these are formula hubs with sealed bearings, not sure about the model name/number, dura-ace cog & formula lockring.


p.s. - thanks to everyone above for all your input!

Last edited by esc8engn; 02-22-08 at 05:19 PM. Reason: p.s.
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Old 02-22-08, 07:38 PM   #9
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...so i took to basically standing on my chain whip...
Heh, and that explains why my chain whips are all bent!
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Old 02-22-08, 11:19 PM   #10
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Formula track hubs are usually pretty high quality. I have them on 2 of my bikes and have never had a problem. It's possible you have a defective set, or they were just damaged by not getting the cog on tight enough.
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