best way to remove protective film on new chanins?
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best way to remove protective film on new chanins?
Hi all,
What is the best way to remove the protective
film on new chains without having to
remove the chain?
Thanks in advance!
What is the best way to remove the protective
film on new chains without having to
remove the chain?
Thanks in advance!
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You should clean the chain before you install it. Use a citrus based cleaner, put the chain into a 2l bottle with about 1/4 cup of cleaner, cap it, and shake. Drain, rinse, and dry.
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Hmm. Never really thought about it. I use SRAM chains which do have a waxy film. I just slap them on, squirt on some lube and ride for a couple of weeks until it's time for regular cleaning which I do with Simple Green in a Park chain scrubber.
Regards,
Raymond
Regards,
Raymond
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The waxy film is called cosmolene. It is a protectant which is applied to metal objects to keep them from getting soiled or corroded during shipping or while in storage. Cars are covered with this stuff just before being put onto ships.
It is not a lubricant, and it should be thouroughly removed before you mount the chain.
It is not a lubricant, and it should be thouroughly removed before you mount the chain.
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No, the dealer just sprays engine degreaser over the whole thing.
Most of the Japanese imports (the few which still remain) are degreased at the carrier loading point, but the German imports are delivered with the stuff still on (except for Porsche).
Most of the Japanese imports (the few which still remain) are degreased at the carrier loading point, but the German imports are delivered with the stuff still on (except for Porsche).
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Don't worry: all subarus rot, and it'll be cheap in about 5 years. Probably about the time the turbo blows.
I think the Impreza wagon looks really nice, but I'm also looking at an Audi A4 turbo, too!
BTW, did you know that, read backwards, it says U-R-A-Bus??
I think the Impreza wagon looks really nice, but I'm also looking at an Audi A4 turbo, too!
BTW, did you know that, read backwards, it says U-R-A-Bus??
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soak your new chain overnight in Xylene, then rinse with Acetone in the morning (the Acetone removes all traces of the oily solvent (xylene).
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1. Its not cosmoline.
2. Its a factory lubricant.
3. Leave it on.
2. Its a factory lubricant.
3. Leave it on.
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+1 with maddmaxx. See sheldon for confirmation.
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Yep. No reason to remove it. More reasons to not. Just run it withe the factory lube for a week or so and then start adding the lube of your choice.
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Whoa! Talk about volatile hydrocarbons! I wonder what those do to the ozone...
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#16
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I used to soak my new chains in solvent and relube before first use, but lately I've been leaving the factory lube on, and it's good stuff (especially the stuff SRAM uses). Definitely leave it on like everyone says.
If you're worried about dirt sticking to the outside of the chain, maybe try dampening a rag with a bit of WD-40 or mineral spirits, then wiping the outside of the chain. That should take off the residue without affecting the lube on the inner surfaces. Be careful not to use too much solvent though or it will soak down into the chain.
If you're worried about dirt sticking to the outside of the chain, maybe try dampening a rag with a bit of WD-40 or mineral spirits, then wiping the outside of the chain. That should take off the residue without affecting the lube on the inner surfaces. Be careful not to use too much solvent though or it will soak down into the chain.
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If for some reason you actually WANT to remove that factory lube, a safer and milder solvent like Simple Green, mineral spirits, or dish detergent should do the trick just fine. A brand new chain has no dirt on it, so anything that dissolves the oily lubricant will completely clean it.
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Simple Green is a wetting agent and a surfactant, that inhibits proper lubricant absorption and adhesion into and onto the metal surfaces.
Xylene is a proper solvent that cleans down to bare metal, and also A: does not get flushed down the drain like simple green, and B: can be resused over and over and over and over again, then finally recycled with the solvent company (I have a solvent recycling service come by once a year to flush and refill the dip tank).
and seeing as i use appropriate PPE (Personal Protective Equipment - rubber chemical gloves, eye glasses, proper rated chemical filters on a facemask) and a grounded and safety fuse protected dip tank, the safety issue is moot.
my workshop, my chain, my dip tank, my CHOICE.
Xylene is a proper solvent that cleans down to bare metal, and also A: does not get flushed down the drain like simple green, and B: can be resused over and over and over and over again, then finally recycled with the solvent company (I have a solvent recycling service come by once a year to flush and refill the dip tank).
and seeing as i use appropriate PPE (Personal Protective Equipment - rubber chemical gloves, eye glasses, proper rated chemical filters on a facemask) and a grounded and safety fuse protected dip tank, the safety issue is moot.
my workshop, my chain, my dip tank, my CHOICE.
Last edited by Bushman; 08-03-07 at 08:48 AM.
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Yes, it's your choice, but don't give out silly advice to people who want to clean their chain. I'd not clean it personally - the factory lube is ace!
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the OP asked for advice on how to clean a chain. I provided advice on how to clean a chain. The MOST EFFECTIVE way to DEGREASE/ DE-OIL is to use industrial solvents. You might not like the materials I use, thats your right, but I have a right to respond to the original posters questions. Thank you.
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The original post was in October of 2001.
Was somebody rooting around in the archives instead of sleeping?
Did we need to resurrect a cosmoline (or chain lube or degreasing) thread??
Was somebody rooting around in the archives instead of sleeping?
Did we need to resurrect a cosmoline (or chain lube or degreasing) thread??
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i dont pay attention to thread start dates. If i can add a bit of info to a thread, i'll respond. This is'nt the only thread that has been brought back up to the top.
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OTOH, we did get a chance to reflect on just how incredibly wrong D*Alex was about Subaru WRX residual values......
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As his account now indicates.