Spoke legnth advice
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Spoke legnth advice
I tried being cheap and I failed. Building a new set of 9 spd road wheels wheels and Kreuzotter said 297 for the front, 296 for the rear. So I figured that since the spokes legnths were within 1 mm, I would just use 297 front and rear. Wrong.
Front wheel spoke legnth was perfect, all the spokes were just up to the bottom of the slit in the spoke nipple.
Rear, on the other hand, was way off. The DS spokes were sticking out a good 1-2 mm over the top of the nipple, NDS spokes were good, right at the bottom of the slit in the nipple.
So my question is, should I go with 296 or 295's for the rear. Thanks.
Front wheel spoke legnth was perfect, all the spokes were just up to the bottom of the slit in the spoke nipple.
Rear, on the other hand, was way off. The DS spokes were sticking out a good 1-2 mm over the top of the nipple, NDS spokes were good, right at the bottom of the slit in the nipple.
So my question is, should I go with 296 or 295's for the rear. Thanks.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
As a general rule, drive side spokes on an 8/9/10 speed cassette hub are 2mm shorter than the non-drive side.
#3
bored of "Senior Member"
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: MD / metro DC
Posts: 2,883
Bikes: Cross-Check/Nexus commuter. Several others for various forms of play.
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 642 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
453 Posts
I've had good luck with both Damon Rinard's spreadsheet, and the calculator on DT Swiss's site. I'd suggest you get a second opinion on the preferred dimensions.
I had some problems when I screwed up the hub flange dimensions, and wound up off by 4 / 5 mm. But if you got those right, and you're really after 296 & 297, I would have bet money that you'd be OK with all 297.
Then again, I don't win all my bets.
I had some problems when I screwed up the hub flange dimensions, and wound up off by 4 / 5 mm. But if you got those right, and you're really after 296 & 297, I would have bet money that you'd be OK with all 297.
Then again, I don't win all my bets.
#4
otherwiseordinary
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: California
Posts: 697
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Measuring the hub precisely is ultra important. It's best to use a micrometer.
I always use more than one spoke length calculator too.
Sometimes I get nitty gritty with the the trig math myself, just to make sure.
But DT swiss calculator and the institute for bike mechanics both have accurate online tools.
Measure twice, cut once.
I always use more than one spoke length calculator too.
Sometimes I get nitty gritty with the the trig math myself, just to make sure.
But DT swiss calculator and the institute for bike mechanics both have accurate online tools.
Measure twice, cut once.