View Poll Results: Lubed or Dry
Lubed
17
51.52%
installed dry
16
48.48%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
Lubing Dura Ace cables
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Lubing Dura Ace cables
I have 5 guys saying to ALWAYS lube new cables and I have 5 others saying to install dry. I have always done them dry but maybe I have been wrong. What's says you? If you use lube please list what kind. NOTE: The cables will be Dura Ace 10-speed.
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#2
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I always just put a dab of grease on the end before install the cables...
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Well, cables are cheap. You decide what you want to do, and I'll bet they last about the same time no matter what. I can't really see paying for Dura Ace cables, though. In my case, it's cheapos with grease, then oil when I need to lube again.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I swap the inners once a season for next to nothing. They don't stretch and I have to break one so why change. Now though it is time to do inners and outers and I just want to make sure I do it right.....if there is a right. For the record Sheldon always said to do it dry.
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#5
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I always lube the cables with something like Tri-Flow before I thread them through the casing.
However, I think it is probably over-kill for something that moves so little.
I just see no reason not to use a lube that won't attract dirt since it is so easy to do. I wouldn't use oil or grease personally, but this isn't based on experience, just feelings.
However, I think it is probably over-kill for something that moves so little.
I just see no reason not to use a lube that won't attract dirt since it is so easy to do. I wouldn't use oil or grease personally, but this isn't based on experience, just feelings.
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#7
Senior Member
I always grease every cable. Never had one sieze, stretch (or break), I only replace them when I paint the bike. Cables have lasted me over ten years. Cables are a very simple, overengineered system on a bike.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
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1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
well the poll is neck and neck so it looks like half of us are doing it wrong....or.......it really does not matter.
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#9
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If you use good quality lined housing, lubing the cables probably isn't really that critical which is why there is such a difference of opinion but none of us has had serious problems no matter what we do.
As a matter of interest, Campy injects a small amount of grease into their cable housing that is picked up by the inner wire as it's inserted so they seem to think it's a good idea.
As a matter of interest, Campy injects a small amount of grease into their cable housing that is picked up by the inner wire as it's inserted so they seem to think it's a good idea.
#10
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When purchasing a set of STI shifters, with cables, the STI cable casing comes from Shimano with grease in them. They instruct to insert the cable into the side with the Shimino logo - this is the side they insert the grease from. When you install the cable from that end, it gets distributed down to the other side as the cable is pushed through. You really don't need to add more grease since the cables come with grease already. To answer your poll though, I voted to grease.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That is a good point Hillrider. Do they use the same type inner liner as Shimano does?
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#12
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#13
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#14
Senior Member
There was a thread here not so long ago where it was pointed out in the strongest terms that Shimano say to lube their cables with a silicon grease. The poster said it was on Shimano's website, or somesuch. I checked some instructions for installing Shimano shifters (including SIS cables) and they do in fact say to "apply grease from the end with the marking in order to maintain cable operating efficiency". So, (a) Shimano does recommend it and (b) there is no indication that on replacement cables, Shimano applies grease already.
I have to say, however, that I have not bothered to lube the Dura-Ace cables on my bikes for quite some years.
I have to say, however, that I have not bothered to lube the Dura-Ace cables on my bikes for quite some years.
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I grease my road cables with Motomaster White Grease.
I don't use that stuff for mountain bike, because it gets really dirty. I've gone through 2 years and it's still shift smoothly.
I don't use that stuff for mountain bike, because it gets really dirty. I've gone through 2 years and it's still shift smoothly.
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New cables every couple of monthes make my bike feel brand new. I just add new bartape and a good wash, and its like i get a new bike. All of that can be had for under $20 if you dont buy a cable "kit" and cut your own housing.
I personally ride so many miles through so many diffrent kinds of crud, that I dont think it is necessary to lube the cables because they will get clogged with grime before oxidation even begins to matter.
I personally ride so many miles through so many diffrent kinds of crud, that I dont think it is necessary to lube the cables because they will get clogged with grime before oxidation even begins to matter.
#18
Senior Member
Oxidation is not an issue with stainless steel cables and plastic lining in the housings, as for Dura-Ace. It is for galvanised cables and if you happen to have really cheap unlined outers.
#19
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
So does Zinn fwiw
Really???? 10 years Do you pull them out and clean them? I have learned that if I solder the cable end real good then I can pull my cables out and oil them with T9 and it makes my shifters feel brand new. I feel cable problems after about two months of riding with sticky shifting and what not. I can't imagine going ten years.
Really???? 10 years Do you pull them out and clean them? I have learned that if I solder the cable end real good then I can pull my cables out and oil them with T9 and it makes my shifters feel brand new. I feel cable problems after about two months of riding with sticky shifting and what not. I can't imagine going ten years.
#20
commuter
Shimano Dura Ace cables use shimano SP41 outer casings, which come pre-lubed. There is no need to lube the inner cable prior to installing them, as running them trough the outer casing will do that. Previous (SP40) outer casings were only lubed the first few inches of the printed side of the casing so it was important to run the inner cable trough them from that side. SP41 outer casings are pre-lubed the full length of the casing.
#21
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I used to always install dry. Have been lubing for 4-5 years. No real difference. If it took long to do it, or resulted in dirt acumulating, etc. then I persoanlly would stop doing it. As it stand now it meets neither of those conditions.
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#22
Senior Member
I have found attempting to solder the ends of stainless cables doesn't work, but of course it will for galvanised. I just use end caps on my cables, although there have been times when I have contemplated dipping ends in epoxy glue to "seal" them -- but have never bothered. Maybe if I run out of cable ends...
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Wow, so much Tri-Flow! I thought I was discovering something tonight! I just shot some in the housing and it made a tight bend much smoother. But my cable setup is tight and jackassy because I didn't want any loops, so it needs it.
I use heat shrink on the ends. It looks good and can be gotten anywhere there's a hardware store or even Radio Shack.
I use heat shrink on the ends. It looks good and can be gotten anywhere there's a hardware store or even Radio Shack.
#24
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Petroleum based lubes will react with the housing liner and cause it to swell. This will shorten the optimal lifespan of the housing because of the increased friction. That is why Shimano recommends SILICONE based lube - no reaction with the liner.
Using a heavy oil or grease will hold contaminants inside the housing and increase wear. Same result.
If the housing is already worn and the cable is binding on it, a lube will temporarily make the situation better before causing it's ultimate demise.
New DA - dry
Old crappy, worn out DA - lube.
Using a heavy oil or grease will hold contaminants inside the housing and increase wear. Same result.
If the housing is already worn and the cable is binding on it, a lube will temporarily make the situation better before causing it's ultimate demise.
New DA - dry
Old crappy, worn out DA - lube.
#25
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
I have found attempting to solder the ends of stainless cables doesn't work, but of course it will for galvanised. I just use end caps on my cables, although there have been times when I have contemplated dipping ends in epoxy glue to "seal" them -- but have never bothered. Maybe if I run out of cable ends...