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Suggestions appreciated on Bar Con Installation

Old 04-20-08, 08:43 PM
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Adohrn
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Suggestions appreciated on Bar Con Installation

This is the first time I have installed bar cons. The LBS said to exit the cables (from under the handlebar tape) halfway between the bar con and the first curve of the bar. The installation instructions show to exit just a little after the curve starts. Any suggestions.


  • I have already read not to over tighten the body as it is AL and to much tension could lead to a minor bump stripping the threads.
  • Are the plastic outer cable guides beneficial to install?
  • Any other tips and tricks I should know about to achieve a successful install.

Also does anyone have any suggestions about my brake placement as well as angling of the drop bar. This bar is just a little different than what I'am used to dealing with. It appears that it wants to put me into an aggressive riding stance.
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Old 04-20-08, 10:03 PM
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sch
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I think it is arbitrary where the cable exits, whichever looks better to you after
you have finished depending also on how you grip the bar. You can't comfortably grip where the cable exits.
If by 'plastic outer cable guide' you mean the triangular stuff
with the cable in the middle and tapering to each side to improve the mold to the
bar in relation to the hand grip, if you have it yes use it. It feels better than with
the cable alone, though electric tape works just as well and you have to tape the
stuff down anyway. Your setup looks a bit vintage, most bars these days are set
up so the part between the straight part next to the stem and the brake hoods is
horizontal rather than at a 45D angle to the ground. With this part horizontal the
hoods would be positioned another 1-1.5" down the curve. This also gives the
bottom most part of the bar a more natural angle with your wrist and grip. With
the bars as pictured your wrist must flex toward your small finger and this is
uncomfortable on a long term basis. By rotating the bar CCW from the view of
the pix the angle will be more natural and the wrist in a neutral position.
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Old 04-20-08, 11:20 PM
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Adohrn
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Yep vintage it is. 1987 Olmo Corsica.

Ok dropped the bars down leveling the bottom of the curl. The bottom of the curl is now only pointing up 5 degrees. The reason I pointed it up so much was to level the hoods with the top part of the bar. This was only after I had hiked the hoods as far up on the bar as I could while still being able to comfortably reach them. Felt more like what I was used to, but obviously wrong.

Should I now use a ruler to level the bottom part of the brake lever with the flat spot at the bottom of the curl. Or do these 45 degree sloping bars require some other approach.

Thank you for the advice. I knew I didn't quiet have it right.

I have been looking at every way under the sun at exiting the bar con cable. I guess I'am going to put some old tape on and try some different approaches.
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Old 04-21-08, 12:57 AM
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Set up the bars anyway you like them. Place the levers wherever you like them. There is no right way. Just because most people set them up one way does not mean it is the best for you. I like them so that the flat part of the drop is angled down.

As for the cables, sch is correct. How and where they exit is arbitrary. I run mine all the way around the bars and exit the tape near the stem along with the brake housing.
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Old 04-21-08, 01:41 AM
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Your right, but I didn't like what I had. The 45 degree slope defiantly feels wrong, but after I ride for awhile maybe I will change my mind.

I'am reading mixed results for exiting the cables at the stem. What is your take? Delayed shifting or not. As with cooking the first time I like to try it the way it's supposed to go creating a baseline. Then I start the experimenting.
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Old 04-21-08, 02:08 AM
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I have no problems with the shifting. There shouldn't be any delayed shifting, the cable is pulled as soon as the bar end moves. You might have a problem with too much friction, making it so you need more effort to move them. I don't have this problem though. I guess there might be some problem with indexing if there is too much friction. Mine are friction shifters, so I don't have this problem, nor have I heard of anyone having this problem.

As for the bars, yeah playing around with them to find the perfect spot is the best. I usually put everything on the bars except the bar tape. I take out the hex wrenches I will need for a ride and keep adjusting the placement of the levers and the angle of the bars until I find a spot that is the best. If one angle and brake lever is better in one hand position, but worse in another compared to another angle or lever position, then I go with the one where I ride the most.

For example, I do most of my riding on the hoods or on the top bend of the bars. It is more important for me to find the best angle and lever placement for this position than it is for when I am in the drops.
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Old 04-21-08, 09:25 AM
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If you are near bike shops that sell either the Surly Crosscheck complete bike, or the Trek 520, these bikes are both set up with stock barcons and the cable routing coming through the handlebar tape where the bar start curving up. You might sneak a look at either of these bikes as an example of how to do it, or take a look at the bikes on the Trek and Surly websites (Trek gives a bigger picture with a magnifier so you can get a close focus on that area).
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Old 04-21-08, 12:04 PM
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Out in the boondocks. Will go check out Treks web site though. Much appreciated.
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Old 04-21-08, 12:46 PM
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I ran housing from the barcons all the way under the bar tape. Seems to work just fine and rear indexes with no problems. I just finished the setup and can't tell you if performance will degrade over time as parts will start wearing off.
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Old 04-21-08, 12:53 PM
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I run my cables ergo style too. Absolutely no shifting problems. Indexes perfectly like they're supposed to.



Last edited by roadfix; 04-21-08 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 04-21-08, 12:56 PM
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My shifter housings run under the tape on a Ritchey ergo bar... I have never liked the exposed lengths of cable on bar cons at all.

The shifting is flawless...cause it's friction.
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Old 04-21-08, 03:22 PM
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Where do you run the cable in relation to the brake lever. It looks like your running it just on the outside of the lever right under the gum hood. Any suggestions for which type of cable housing. I'm assuming the slickest I can get to try to avoid any extra friction.
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Old 04-21-08, 03:38 PM
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I ran the cables along the inner sides of the brake hoods. I used generic SIS housings since the stock supplied housings were not long enough for this particular routing. You also may need a slightly longer rear derailleur cable with this set up. I used a tandem cable for that.
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Old 04-21-08, 03:58 PM
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One good thing about being vertically challenged, I could use regular cables. I had plenty of cable left over.

How I run my cables is also to the inside. Basically, what I decided was that I want the housing to lay at my finger tips. I figure this would be the most comfortable.
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Old 04-21-08, 04:50 PM
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You can run your barend cables just about anyway you want. For me, it was 'ergo' all the way with aero brake levers just like RF above, in fact I used his photo above as a guide (thanks!!). Works great, I used a modern bar with cable grooves on back and front of bar, but that isn't necessary. I ran gear cables from the shifter along the bottom of the bars shifting to the inside of the curve near the brake lever, and then along the front of the bar. The brake cables are run in back. I ran the housing, inserted the uncut cables and hooked them up under tension, taping the cable housing to the bar temporarily. Then I cycled the handlebars to each extreme to determine cable housing length. Once that was done I used stiff strapping tape to keep the cable housing in place. Finally I wrapped bar tape over it all, starting from the bar end and securing near the stem with one turn of electrical tape.

I am using Suntour friction barcons to shift with Jagwire cable housing and dura ace cables, very slick and no friction or binding problems at all. As mentioned, use a tandem-length RD cable if you're going to run your shift cables along the bar under the tape.

Last edited by Deserted; 04-21-08 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 04-21-08, 06:23 PM
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I'am interested. I'am going to run this with some old tape on for awhile. I will try a number of different set ups, but I definitely am going to try ergo. I think I will also be able to get away with using the cable that came with the barcons. I have around 8-9 inches of extra cable with it run the traditional way. Will let you know who it works out.
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Old 04-21-08, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SweetLou View Post
Set up the bars anyway you like them. Place the levers wherever you like them. There is no right way. Just because most people set them up one way does not mean it is the best for you. I like them so that the flat part of the drop is angled down.
Best thing to do is not tape the bars for a period of time. Carry the requisite hex keys with you and adjust the bars and brake levers until they're satisfactory. Then ride it a bit more.

Now go ahead and tape it.

And I echo the sentiments on where the housing exits the tape.....whatever floats your boat. In my case it's 2-3" inches, depending on the bars.

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Old 04-21-08, 08:41 PM
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Or, instead of not taping, I sometimes cut an old inner tube into two strips and wrap the bars with them until I am ready to wrap with tape. It takes a little longer to do some adjustments, but it will give you about the width of tape, hold the cables in place and make the ride a little better.
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Old 04-21-08, 08:55 PM
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Adohrn
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Good one I will keep that in mind.
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Old 04-21-08, 08:59 PM
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Recognize that bar set up doobler. Can't say that it floated my boat, but I'm glad you like it. I was trying to make the bar conform to what I'am used to, and was really questioning what I had.
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Old 04-22-08, 04:28 AM
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I did a short post on bar ends:
https://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.co...for-crits.html

I think your first pics are fine, I'd just cut some of the bar off to bring the shifters forward.

My setup was based on riding on the drops a lot. If you're not then bar ends are not as useful because you have to move your hands to shift. Moving hands is one of the main causes of people not holding a straight/predictable line. If I didn't race or like chasing after vehicles I'd use Suntour Command shifters or brifters, something I could shift from up top.

Unless you have some compelling reason to have a left bar end, I'd use a downtube shifter instead. Much more direct/solid shifting.

Cabling can go either way but there is a tad bit more friction with the full bar route. However that's how I ran my bar ends most of the time, more to keep that dangly cable housing out of the way. My last bars (pictured in the post) were pre-drilled for internal cables at the stem area. I drilled them at the shifter and brake levers for "entry" points.

hope this helps loosen some creative juices,
cdr
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Old 04-22-08, 07:36 AM
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Cable rub

Not to hi-jack, but this seems approriate to the topic. I have noticed rubbing on the headtube with my cables routed like "roadfix". It looks like "dobbers" routing would not have this issue. I was actually getting ready to place some clear tape there to protect the surface. Anybody have a comment with regard to cable rub and routing?

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 04-22-08, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ericthered View Post
Not to hi-jack, but this seems approriate to the topic. I have noticed rubbing on the headtube with my cables routed like "roadfix". It looks like "dobbers" routing would not have this issue. I was actually getting ready to place some clear tape there to protect the surface. Anybody have a comment with regard to cable rub and routing?

Thanks,
Eric
Cable rub on the headtube is a very common problem with STI/Ergo brifters when the cable stops are mounted on downtube shifter bosses. This is one of the reasons for newer frames having dedicated stops brazed/welded to the headtube itself or very high on the downtube.

I've always used patches of tape to protect the headtube where the cable housing contacts it. Depending on the frame color, clear packing tape, black electrical tape, etc. can be used so it isn't too obvious. This is one great application for the Park pre-glued tube patches too.

Also, make the housing as short as possible while still being able to turn the bars all the way both ways.

Another way to reduce the problem is to "cross-cable" the shifters. Run the rightside housing to the left side cable stop and vise-versa. Then cross the bare cable wires under the downtube to get them on the correct side of the bike. This way the housing is pulled away from the headtube as the bars are turned instead of into it so it's less abrasive.
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Old 04-22-08, 10:03 AM
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One way to avoid cable housing rubbing on the head tube is to go from right shifter to the left cable stop crossing the cable housing. Then in order to get cables going to the respective shifters you should cross cables under the down tube going to bottom bracket cable guides. I will have to get some pictures of this setup.

Edit: Did not read the post above. +1 on cross cabling.
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Old 04-22-08, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
I've always used patches of tape to protect the headtube where the cable housing contacts it. Depending on the frame color, clear packing tape, black electrical tape, etc. can be used so it isn't too obvious. This is one great application for the Park pre-glued tube patches too.
Cut-up pieces of clear chainstay protector tape should also work. Also, in some auto parts stores you can find clear "3M Repair Tape" in 1"-wide rolls that is designed to be removable without damaging paint (probably similar to the stuff the chainstay tape is made from). Right now I'm trying out a Jagwire product (I think they're called Tube Tops) which are little soft neoprene-like covers that slip over the cable housings where they rub against the frame. I haven't been using them long enough to say if they're effective, though.

Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Another way to reduce the problem is to "cross-cable" the shifters. Run the rightside housing to the left side cable stop and vise-versa. Then cross the bare cable wires under the downtube to get them on the correct side of the bike. This way the housing is pulled away from the headtube as the bars are turned instead of into it so it's less abrasive.
I like this method, however I've found that it doesn't work on all frames. My new Gunnar Sport frame has an oversized downtube, and if you cross the inner cables they end up hitting the underside of the tube. Also, I've noticed that the crossed cables tend to enter the under-BB-shell guide at a slightly different angle than the guide was designed for, so that probably increases friction a bit, at least until the cable "wears in" the guide.

Last edited by Metaluna; 04-22-08 at 11:32 AM. Reason: fixed formatting
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