Rust Removal
#1
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Rust Removal
Does anyone have a good method for removing rust from the inside of the tubes on steel frames? I want to restore a couple of them and am wondering if there is anything that won't ruin the paint but still do a reasonable job of removing the rust before I put in Frame Saver.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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I never tried this, but it sounds like a good idea:
Use shot-gun cleanng brushes and a CLP (cleaner, lube, protectant) such as Shooter Choice, 10FP, or even Hoppes No.9
You choices for brushes include brass, stainless and nylon so so can get aggressive as you want.
Hope this helps,
Ehenz
BTW: It is hunting season and any wal-mart would have the cleaning kit on sale for less than ten bucks. It will included everything you will need. Measure the inside tube diameter so you get a slightly over-sized kit (12 gage will likely work).
Use shot-gun cleanng brushes and a CLP (cleaner, lube, protectant) such as Shooter Choice, 10FP, or even Hoppes No.9
You choices for brushes include brass, stainless and nylon so so can get aggressive as you want.
Hope this helps,
Ehenz
BTW: It is hunting season and any wal-mart would have the cleaning kit on sale for less than ten bucks. It will included everything you will need. Measure the inside tube diameter so you get a slightly over-sized kit (12 gage will likely work).
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At auto supply stores you can get hones for cleaning brake cylinders that work in a hand drill.
There is also a product for removing rust from the insides of steel tubes called Flex-Hone that may be available from Loose Screws the mail order co. or from an industrial supplier if there are any in your area.
I've tried the brake hone, but prefer the Flex-Hone. Be sure to use plenty of honing oil or the stones clog with grit.
There is also a product for removing rust from the insides of steel tubes called Flex-Hone that may be available from Loose Screws the mail order co. or from an industrial supplier if there are any in your area.
I've tried the brake hone, but prefer the Flex-Hone. Be sure to use plenty of honing oil or the stones clog with grit.
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Good thinking!! I'll let you know how things work out. Thanks and have a great Thanksgiving!
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Just curious. If you clean the rust off the inside of the tubes, won't it just rust again? This will actually thin your tubes out ever so slightly.
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Originally Posted by Avalanche325
Just curious. If you clean the rust off the inside of the tubes, won't it just rust again? This will actually thin your tubes out ever so slightly.
Joe
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That is what the Frame Saver is for. It coats the inside of the tubes to prevent rust.
DEMON
DEMON
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Exactly! And I will redo the frame every 3-4 years. Cheap insurance.
The rust was not as bad elsewhere as it was inside the headtube when I pulled the fork and headset. The BB shell cleaned up very nicely. Serotta brazes the end of their seat- and chainstays closed, so can't get in there. I may be able to do so via the rear brake caliper bridge, but haven't tried yet.
Thanks, again, for your help. I'll post a pick once I've completed the clean-up.
The rust was not as bad elsewhere as it was inside the headtube when I pulled the fork and headset. The BB shell cleaned up very nicely. Serotta brazes the end of their seat- and chainstays closed, so can't get in there. I may be able to do so via the rear brake caliper bridge, but haven't tried yet.
Thanks, again, for your help. I'll post a pick once I've completed the clean-up.
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Use the electrolysis (sorry too tired to check spelling) method.
Get a plastic bucket or tray big enough for the frame. Fill it with water and a handful of Borax or baking soda.
Attach one lead of an automotive 12v battery charger to the bicycle frame (I don't quite remember, but I think the positive lead goes on the frame).
Attach the other lead to a stainless steel object with a lot of surface area. A stainless steel plate would work well. I used a big stainless spoon.
In a couple of days, the water will be icky, but the rust will come off of your frame. Note that the part of the frame closest to the spoon will clean better and faster.
Get a plastic bucket or tray big enough for the frame. Fill it with water and a handful of Borax or baking soda.
Attach one lead of an automotive 12v battery charger to the bicycle frame (I don't quite remember, but I think the positive lead goes on the frame).
Attach the other lead to a stainless steel object with a lot of surface area. A stainless steel plate would work well. I used a big stainless spoon.
In a couple of days, the water will be icky, but the rust will come off of your frame. Note that the part of the frame closest to the spoon will clean better and faster.
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A variation on the shotgun cleaning kit, use Naval Jelly. I have found it to be a very effective rust remover. It has a thick, jelly-like consistency that adheres to all surfaces. Use one patch to apply it and the brushes to scrub it clean.
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mike & TrekRider - I am attempting to preservce the paint and decals. Will these methods do no harm to either? If I remember correctly, Naval Jelly is a strong lye and will eat both. Can't say about the electrolysis.
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Get a chemical rust remover that's available at a good automotive or marine supplies store. It usually comes in a liquid gel.
I've used it on many types of steel and it works really well. It will stop and neutralize the oxidation.
It's not corrosive to the touch but will stain your hands so you'll want to use gloves.
I've used it on many types of steel and it works really well. It will stop and neutralize the oxidation.
It's not corrosive to the touch but will stain your hands so you'll want to use gloves.
#14
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Originally Posted by ParamountScapin
Does anyone have a good method for removing rust from the inside of the tubes on steel frames? I want to restore a couple of them and am wondering if there is anything that won't ruin the paint but still do a reasonable job of removing the rust before I put in Frame Saver.
Thanks.
Thanks.