Name, function of rear wheel part?
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Name, function of rear wheel part?
I've noticed a clear plastic disc mounted just inboard of the cassette (adjacent to the spokes) on rear wheels. Typically, its diameter is an inch or two greater than that of the largest cog. It seems to be a protector of some sort, but what is it protecting, and what is it called (so I know what to ask for at the store)?
#2
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It's a spoke protector.
It protects the spokes in case the chain goes past the large cog. Although a properly adjusted derailleur shouldn't let that happen, you never know. If a chain does get into the spokes it can cause a lot of damage to the spokes. Many riders don't use spoke protectors. To replace it you'll need to take the cogs off the rear wheel.
cdr
It protects the spokes in case the chain goes past the large cog. Although a properly adjusted derailleur shouldn't let that happen, you never know. If a chain does get into the spokes it can cause a lot of damage to the spokes. Many riders don't use spoke protectors. To replace it you'll need to take the cogs off the rear wheel.
cdr
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It's a spoke protector or "pie plate", "dork disc", "nerd coaster", etc. It helps prevent damage to the wheel if the rear derailleur is poorly adjusted or bent thus allowing the chain to shift too far inwards.
Some people have issues with them:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/415249-amusing-pie-plate-rant-bikesnobnyc.html
Some people have issues with them:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/415249-amusing-pie-plate-rant-bikesnobnyc.html
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In addition to the above...
Many cyclist remove this. It can look a bit tacky on a bike that is well looked after and well maintained... a cheap bit of placky just sitting there doing nothing it would seem but getting full of oil and crud, but it does serve a purpose. If you are absolutely sure your read RD is set up correctly you could take the chance and remove it, the rear cluster DOES look better for the lack of it in my opinion. It was a no brainer for my bike... I never ever go to the largest ring on the back cluster. But at the same time something could damage your RD which could send the chain over the cluster.
Personally, I like the large metal ones you see on some cheep bikes with slots cut into them.
Many cyclist remove this. It can look a bit tacky on a bike that is well looked after and well maintained... a cheap bit of placky just sitting there doing nothing it would seem but getting full of oil and crud, but it does serve a purpose. If you are absolutely sure your read RD is set up correctly you could take the chance and remove it, the rear cluster DOES look better for the lack of it in my opinion. It was a no brainer for my bike... I never ever go to the largest ring on the back cluster. But at the same time something could damage your RD which could send the chain over the cluster.
Personally, I like the large metal ones you see on some cheep bikes with slots cut into them.
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Thanks, folks! Since I will be attempting my first derailer install/adjustment within the next month or so, I'll put one in.
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All the above mentioned names are quite appropriate. It is a holdover from the days of friction shifting. With properly adjusted indexed shifting, especially STI type, you're never going to need it. It's rarely seen on anything other than older bikes and some low end models. Ditch it.
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In addition to the above...
Many cyclist remove this. It can look a bit tacky on a bike that is well looked after and well maintained... a cheap bit of placky just sitting there doing nothing it would seem but getting full of oil and crud, but it does serve a purpose. If you are absolutely sure your read RD is set up correctly you could take the chance and remove it, the rear cluster DOES look better for the lack of it in my opinion. It was a no brainer for my bike... I never ever go to the largest ring on the back cluster. But at the same time something could damage your RD which could send the chain over the cluster.
Personally, I like the large metal ones you see on some cheep bikes with slots cut into them.
Many cyclist remove this. It can look a bit tacky on a bike that is well looked after and well maintained... a cheap bit of placky just sitting there doing nothing it would seem but getting full of oil and crud, but it does serve a purpose. If you are absolutely sure your read RD is set up correctly you could take the chance and remove it, the rear cluster DOES look better for the lack of it in my opinion. It was a no brainer for my bike... I never ever go to the largest ring on the back cluster. But at the same time something could damage your RD which could send the chain over the cluster.
Personally, I like the large metal ones you see on some cheep bikes with slots cut into them.
#8
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All the above mentioned names are quite appropriate. It is a holdover from the days of friction shifting. With properly adjusted indexed shifting, especially STI type, you're never going to need it. It's rarely seen on anything other than older bikes and some low end models. Ditch it.
A derailleur stop screw is a derailleur stop screw.
#9
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I 'm not sure I agree. With a friction shifter, my feeling is you can "throw" the chain a little beyond the derailleur limit by shifting quiickly over a few cogs. On one of my bikes I have a hard time shifting to the big cog from the one right next to it, but if I first shift a couple of gears higher (smaller cogs) and then throw the friction lever back fast, I can get the chain to leap on the big cog. So in theory if my limit screw was set to allow easy shifting to the big cog, I might be able to throw the chain into the spokes with a fast downshift over several gears.
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All the above mentioned names are quite appropriate. It is a holdover from the days of friction shifting. With properly adjusted indexed shifting, especially STI type, you're never going to need it. It's rarely seen on anything other than older bikes and some low end models. Ditch it.
I 'm not sure I agree. With a friction shifter, my feeling is you can "throw" the chain a little beyond the derailleur limit by shifting quiickly over a few cogs. On one of my bikes I have a hard time shifting to the big cog from the one right next to it, but if I first shift a couple of gears higher (smaller cogs) and then throw the friction lever back fast, I can get the chain to leap on the big cog. So in theory if my limit screw was set to allow easy shifting to the big cog, I might be able to throw the chain into the spokes with a fast downshift over several gears.
Your friction shifter experience is simply the result of an improperly adjusted stop screw imho, of course.
#11
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As long as it isn't falling apart (cracked, chipped, flopping around, etc), most will leave it on, if only for 'possible' spoke protection in case the chain jumps in there for whatever reason. Removing it is up to you. Some remove it for aesthetics, peer pressure, weight savings, etc.
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The disc that came on my '07 Trek 1500 is actually rather inconspicuous, and I think I'll leave it on, at least until it becomes a fugly shade of yellow.