Wheel Building Corrections
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Wheel Building Corrections
When building a rear wheel and correcting bumps and dips and side-to-side: 700 24sp 2x
Right side spokes are tighter then left side:
1. So how much spoke turns do you do if the bump or side-to-side error falls in-between two spokes (1 left and 1 right)?
2. And what if the error is over three spokes (2 left and 1 right)?
3. What if the bump or dip seems to be only on one spoke but adjusting that spoke would make the spoke too tight, loose or has no effect on the error, then what?
4. When do you balance spoke tensions during a wheel build? (after first firm-up, during or after correcting)
Thanks
Right side spokes are tighter then left side:
1. So how much spoke turns do you do if the bump or side-to-side error falls in-between two spokes (1 left and 1 right)?
2. And what if the error is over three spokes (2 left and 1 right)?
3. What if the bump or dip seems to be only on one spoke but adjusting that spoke would make the spoke too tight, loose or has no effect on the error, then what?
4. When do you balance spoke tensions during a wheel build? (after first firm-up, during or after correcting)
Thanks
#2
Over the hill
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 24,376
Bikes: Giant Defy, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 998 Post(s)
Liked 1,206 Times
in
692 Posts
This is what I do:
1. Tighten one, then loosen the other the same amount.
2. Adjust the middle, then counter the other two half way each.
3. Either live with the bump or dip (if it's minor) or return the rim.
4. After first "firm up", then after each round of truing.
The left side will be about 60% of the tension as the right side on a modern wheel.
1. Tighten one, then loosen the other the same amount.
2. Adjust the middle, then counter the other two half way each.
3. Either live with the bump or dip (if it's minor) or return the rim.
4. After first "firm up", then after each round of truing.
The left side will be about 60% of the tension as the right side on a modern wheel.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
From the very start. The first thing that I do is to tighten each spoke to the last thread. That's so that i have an even starting place. From that point on during the tensioning process I tighten every spoke an equal amount in small increments. If you do it that way and are using good quality components you'll be surprised at how little trueing is sometimes necessary.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,977
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount P15, Fisher Montare, Proteus, Rivendell Quickbeam
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
This guy has a pretty good instruction on wheelbuilding and his techniques will answer most of your questions.
https://www.miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm
https://www.miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm