New Cassette Vibration
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New Cassette Vibration
I bought a new set of wheels and a new cassette for it. When I put the new wheel w/ the new cassette on my bike, I experience a vibration through the crank and pedals when I'm in the smaller cogs (12-13-14-15).
When I put my old cassette on the new wheels, I do not experience this vibration so it doesn't seem to be an issue with the wheels.
I am using a 5 month old chain that does not have any stretch according to my chain wear tool.
I have also tried adjusting the rear derailleur cable tension but that does not seem to help.
The last thing I could think of adjusting was the b-screw adjustment, but since my b-screw is screwed in backwards, I can't quite use screwdriver to adjust it so instead I just used my hand to move the rear derailleur body closer and farther away from the cassette but that did not get rid of the vibration either.
The only thing I can think of remaining is that my rear derailleur jockey wheels aren't meshing well with the new cassette teeth. My drive train is 3 years old and I have never replaced any part of it besides the chain regularly. Could it just be that my drive train is worn in such that it doesn't work perfectly with a new cassette? My chain does not seem to have any real issues with the exception of the occasional skip when I'm really hammering hard.
Any suggestions?
When I put my old cassette on the new wheels, I do not experience this vibration so it doesn't seem to be an issue with the wheels.
I am using a 5 month old chain that does not have any stretch according to my chain wear tool.
I have also tried adjusting the rear derailleur cable tension but that does not seem to help.
The last thing I could think of adjusting was the b-screw adjustment, but since my b-screw is screwed in backwards, I can't quite use screwdriver to adjust it so instead I just used my hand to move the rear derailleur body closer and farther away from the cassette but that did not get rid of the vibration either.
The only thing I can think of remaining is that my rear derailleur jockey wheels aren't meshing well with the new cassette teeth. My drive train is 3 years old and I have never replaced any part of it besides the chain regularly. Could it just be that my drive train is worn in such that it doesn't work perfectly with a new cassette? My chain does not seem to have any real issues with the exception of the occasional skip when I'm really hammering hard.
Any suggestions?
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Ok, I put on a new chain and I still feel a slight vibration. Do you think if I just ride it for a while, the new cassette will wear in a bit and the minor vibration will stop?
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No. Check if the cassette is tight? Otherwise swap the old one back, if noise goes away it's your new cassette.
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I don't think it's an issue with the cassette being tight. I have a torque wrench and made sure to torque it to 40 Nm.
This is also the 2nd new cassette I have tried that has experienced this same vibration so I do not believe it is the cassette's fault. The first was a SRAM PG-950 but I returned it and got a Shimano Ultegra cassette to see if the cause of the vibration was due to the cheap SRAM cassette.
This is also the 2nd new cassette I have tried that has experienced this same vibration so I do not believe it is the cassette's fault. The first was a SRAM PG-950 but I returned it and got a Shimano Ultegra cassette to see if the cause of the vibration was due to the cheap SRAM cassette.
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You may need a spacer under the cassette on the hub body,
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adjust the b tension screw. That should stop the vibration. The B tension screw is the one at the rear top of the dropout. Shift to large front and small rear and adjust until the top Jockey wheel and the small cog do not touch......
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the cassette seems to be on there pretty solid. shouldn't I experience vibration in all the rear cogs if the cassette was loose?
as for adjusting the b tension screw, I've tried spinning the cranks and using my other hand to push the rear derailleur body away from the cassette to simulate the b tension screw adjustment and the vibration doesn't seem to go away no matter how far away the top jockey wheel is from the cogs when in the smaller cogs.
as for adjusting the b tension screw, I've tried spinning the cranks and using my other hand to push the rear derailleur body away from the cassette to simulate the b tension screw adjustment and the vibration doesn't seem to go away no matter how far away the top jockey wheel is from the cogs when in the smaller cogs.
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the only time I had this problem was on a 105 triple 8 speed setup. I ended up replacing the chain to remedy it. The chain was not that old but nevertheless, changing it out stopped the vibration....
Have you backpedaled slowly looking at the jocky wheel looking for stiff links?
Have you backpedaled slowly looking at the jocky wheel looking for stiff links?