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rusty frame

Old 06-30-08, 10:22 AM
  #1  
justridingalong
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rusty frame

I'd like to find out if anyone has a good solution (liquid) for rust removal on a bike frame/fork? I've tried CLR, it worked ok. I was just wondering about other remedies.
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Old 06-30-08, 02:54 PM
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bikeman715
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sanding and /or a dermal tool with a wire brush should work .
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Old 06-30-08, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bikeman715 View Post
sanding and /or a dermal tool with a wire brush should work .
+1

If you aren't going to repaint the whole thing, sand it down, get the surface really clean (I use denatured alcohol), and then paint the bare surfaces to match the frame color. On my slightly rusty Raleigh Sports, I used Rust-Oleum bare metal primer followed by a mix of paints meant to match the original color. I blended hunter green and leather brown, and it worked fairly well. The paint ends up a little soft, though, not like a wonderful baked-on professional paint job.

Yeah, CLR is pretty good if you're committed to a liquid treatment. Be careful to read the labels if you're investigating rust removal agents; some of the crazier ones have hydrofluoric acid, which stands a good chance of killing you (slowly and painfully) in the case of skin contact.
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Old 06-30-08, 11:01 PM
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Apple cider vinegar -- very good rust remover if you can soak frame or other item for a 12-24 hours then scrub. Very non-toxic, work with bare hands if you want.
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Old 07-01-08, 12:18 PM
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According to the guru's on C&V, you are supposed to use naval jelly. I think it's phosphoric acid.
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Old 07-01-08, 12:39 PM
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I couldn't remember if the acid used in naval jelly was oxalic or phosphoric. So I did a google on "steel rust removal" and got back so many excellent links to various methods that it's just not worth posting all the links here. Google it for yourself and pick one.

If there is more than just outside rust stains in the paint then you'll want a method that you can use to fill the frame if it's bad but you caught it just in time.

One method that I've used in the past and will strongly suggest no one uses is muriatic acid (otherwise known as hydrochoric acid). Muriatic acid is sold for cleaning concrete as it etches away the outer layer taking stains and other stuff with it. It also does a great job of removing rust and leaving the base metal. However despite lots of rinsing it seems to leave some of the acid in the pores of the surface and the parts will rerust again in an amazingly short time if not dried and oiled within minutes of being rinsed. A dip into a solution of baking soda or weak lye and water between rinses may stop that but I've not tried it at all.
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Old 07-01-08, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cc700 View Post
i jam my thumbs up and back into the tubes. this way i can point my fingers straight out in front to split the wind and attain an even more aero profile, and the usual fixed gear - zen - connectedness feeling through the drivetrain is multiplied ten fold because my thumbs become one with the tubing.
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