brakes w/o quick release
07-31-08, 06:39 AM
#1
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brakes w/o quick release
I'm thinking of mounting an old WEinman center pull front brake on my bike. How do you get the front tire off if the brake doesn't have a quick release? thanks!
07-31-08, 06:43 AM
#2
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With Difficulty
it can be done though, one of my bikes has no QR on the brakes, and i can squeeze it through when needed
it can be done though, one of my bikes has no QR on the brakes, and i can squeeze it through when needed
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i jam my thumbs up and back into the tubes. this way i can point my fingers straight out in front to split the wind and attain an even more aero profile, and the usual fixed gear - zen - connectedness feeling through the drivetrain is multiplied ten fold because my thumbs become one with the tubing.
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07-31-08, 07:22 AM
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Several methods, deflate tire, brute force, remove a brake pad. unhook straddle cable, get cable hanger with QR, brake lever with QR, straddle cable saddle with QR.
I like wider rims so the brake doesn't have to open much to let the tire pass.
I like wider rims so the brake doesn't have to open much to let the tire pass.
07-31-08, 07:31 AM
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07-31-08, 08:04 AM
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Uhh.. if you have campy or tektro brake levers, they have a button that you press in and it releases tension.
07-31-08, 08:06 AM
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I worked on my mom's bike recently and experienced exactly this. Weird, I thought to myself, because both bikes I own have quick releases for the brakes, but I never thought about it until I ran into her bike. I used the brute force method, though I have to admit that the brakes were poorly adjusted (part of the reason I had the bike) so it was easier than it would have been if they were properly setup.
I imagine deflating the tire would have worked well too, and if I ever have to work on it again I'll go that route because, to me, the brute force method seems like it could cause damage to the brakes or at least bend things if not done carefully (careful and brute force seem to be contradictory methodologies
).
I imagine deflating the tire would have worked well too, and if I ever have to work on it again I'll go that route because, to me, the brute force method seems like it could cause damage to the brakes or at least bend things if not done carefully (careful and brute force seem to be contradictory methodologies
).
07-31-08, 09:59 AM
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I don't have this problem....
what I do is set my brakes to reeeeeally wide open and blamo, no problem getting the tires off. Now, stopping is an issue, but that was an easy solve. I got a concrete block and hold it in my left arm (I need my right hand to steer, of course), the block is chained to my seat post by a 6 foot chain (I found anything longer is just too dangerous, and any shorter, you run the risk of it getting caught up in your back wheel mechanics). It takes a little practice, but before you need to stop (give yourself 10 feet AT LEAST! Trust me), just drop the block.
If it doesn't break on impact, after the initial jerk, you'll see yourself quickly slowing to an easy stop.
Yep, no problems getting MY wheels off.....
.....but seriously, a little brute force will get it off for me, worse case, I relax the brakes a little with a few twist on the adjustment, then I can squeeze them through. The problem went away when I switched to 27 x 1 1/8ths..
what I do is set my brakes to reeeeeally wide open and blamo, no problem getting the tires off. Now, stopping is an issue, but that was an easy solve. I got a concrete block and hold it in my left arm (I need my right hand to steer, of course), the block is chained to my seat post by a 6 foot chain (I found anything longer is just too dangerous, and any shorter, you run the risk of it getting caught up in your back wheel mechanics). It takes a little practice, but before you need to stop (give yourself 10 feet AT LEAST! Trust me), just drop the block.
If it doesn't break on impact, after the initial jerk, you'll see yourself quickly slowing to an easy stop.
Yep, no problems getting MY wheels off.....
.....but seriously, a little brute force will get it off for me, worse case, I relax the brakes a little with a few twist on the adjustment, then I can squeeze them through. The problem went away when I switched to 27 x 1 1/8ths..
07-31-08, 03:19 PM
#11
Senior Member
There's also should be a cable-stop with adjuster barrel. Screw in the adjuster all the way and it should wide the brakes a bit. If not enough for the tyre, at least that'll generate enough slack to unhook the straddle cable. If you squeeze the pads together with one hand, the other can release the straddle cable.
