mrbubbles

I'm looking for a piece of hardware that will allow me to attach two cable housing ends together. Kinda like the Shimano inline adjusters without the adjuster. Such thing exist?

xrongor

like this?

https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...4&d=1156711715

although you could accomplish the same thing much cheaper than buying an 'official' part

mrbubbles

That does the job, almost.

I prefer it to be neater, and the two housing ferrule much closer.

Like these, without the adjusting part, I have no use for the adjustment.

operator

Or you can just cut the housing the right length to being with and stop looking for hack solutions.

carpediemracing 

There are the "quick disconnect" things from the travel bike folks. Or whoever sells the bikes with the frame couplings.

I forget what they're called. arg.

cdr

cyccommute 

It's called a cable splitter. Bike Friday sells them.

mrbubbles

This isn't a hack solution. I have a box of brake and shifting cables, at least 30 feet of each. This solution is for swapping handlebar setups that occurs 10 times a year without changing bartape and removing 20+ feet of cable housings on braze on with zipties.

I know what those are, that's not what I'm looking for.

DieselDan

Then that is exactly what you are looking for.

mrbubbles

Those doesn't work. The bike has FULL cable housing. No cable will be exposed anywhere on the bike besides on the brake and derailleurs. The cable splitter doesn't utilize cable ferrule ends.

I know cable splitters exist, they have them on folding bikes and bikes with SS couplers.

Cannondaler

This may be what you are looking for: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...n+Ferrule.aspx

mrbubbles

Whoa. Interesting. I just asked JensonUSA helpline for more product detail, their description is lacking.

BCRider

What you're trying to do is save a few bucks by recycling the old short bits of housings? I'm sorry but operator nailed it. It's a hack. By all means keep the bits that are longer to use for various spots on other parts of the bike or other bikes. But if you need a long piece for a full housing run then buck up and go buy a single length and do the job right.

Besides anything you can find that lets you do this is going to cost just as much as the length of housing you'd buy if you did it the right way. Where's the savings then?

If you can't find anywhere to use the bits then bundle them up and drop them off at one of the community bike stores that pieces together castoffs to help the poor get bikes to ride.

mrbubbles

Again, it's not a hack. It's not about saving short cable housings, those go into the garbage. I hardly consider 1.5 month cable housing "old". Just imagine replacing full cable housing for both shifters and brake cable, retaping my bars, along with cutting the zipties and retying them with ones, every 5 or so weeks. Seems like a waste doesn't it?

With inline adapter, I don't have to touch the cable housing while swapping handlebar setup, just slot in the cables, adjust, and go. Takes 5 minutes top.

nitropowered

Jagwire makes a 4mm and 5mm double ended ferrule. Shimano makes a 5mm double ended one as well

kevbo

Been so long I have almost forgotten how much life sucked when I didn't own a lathe.

I'll make some for you...I'll charge you for the stock if I can't source it from my scrap bin. email me:

kevinferg at gmail dot com.

neilG

I'm sure I have a couple of those Shimano ferrules. PM me your mailing address and I'll send them to you. For the 69 cents US the letter will cost I expect you to heap tons of praise on me in this forum.

BCRider

OK, I see now that I misinterpreted what you said in this post quoted here.

So it's a road bike from the reference to the bar tape. I'm not sure why you're swapping bars so often but I'm sure curious about how the bike's mission changes so radically that it requires that and the reason for full length housings. I'm going to guess that it's a cyclocross bike used for serious mud conditions.... am I close?

But since this is more about adapting the bike with bar changes rather than trying to piece all the stuff together then at least I understand why you want to do this now. In that case the Jenson units seem like they would work. Even better would be a sort of clamp on fitting or couple of fittings that accept cable ferrules from each side so the back housings can end at the cluster and the various bars can be set up with housings that are also sized to just fit into the front of them. At least I think it would be nice to see them end like that. You'd still have to change cables farily often since the regular mashing of tightening the cables at the rear brake and the two derrailleurs would take its toll on the life span of the strands.

If you go with those Shimano coupler units I'd suggest wrapping electrical tape around them at each change to water proof them and also as padding to avoid scratching the frame.

mtnbiker4791

Shimano makes what you are looking for. Shimano cable housing junction ferrel. they are about 2 bucks a piece.

mrbubbles

Very close. A regular winter cyclocross/road bike with drop bar swapping to flat bar when I go backcountry bikepacking/mountain biking.

For the other two posters offering help. Thank you, you got a PM.

kevbo

Got your PM mrbubbles I'll let you think on this idea first though, as the question of pricing may become moot:

If you just put ferrules on the cable housing, it would work, as the inner cable will maintain alignment, and the housing is under pure compression.

So all you need is a minimal structure to keep the housing aligned when unloaded, keep dirt out, etc. No center stop constriction is really needed

If you go to a hobby or real (not big box type) hardware store, they will have a "K&S" display of brass and aluminum tubing. Find sizes that fit nicely around your ferrules (different for brake and shift housings).

A short length of heat shrink tubing would be a nice neat way to hold this in place, though electrical tape would work as well.


Edited to add: If you flow some silver braze (wets stainless better than brass, I'd use 45% Ag for this, Easyflow 45 or similar) into the end bit of the cable, it will keep the clamps from buggering it so much. If you flow it out to the very end, you won't need to mess with using tippets either. You can use a propane or butane torch for a heat source. One of the little "pencil" torches that show up in the bargain bins at auto parts and hardware stores is ideal.