Help with the fit of my bike
#1
Mikey
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Help with the fit of my bike
I recently purchased a TREK 7200 hybrid and I'm having some trouble getting it sized up to me properly.
The LBS suggested the frame size,so I assume it is close.
I am having numbness in my hands,even after adding a pair if Ergon grips,my feet occasionally
start to go numb,and the saddle seems pretty uncomfortable.
Is there a guide available somewhere to suggest sizing guidelines for a hybrid?
The LBS suggested the frame size,so I assume it is close.
I am having numbness in my hands,even after adding a pair if Ergon grips,my feet occasionally
start to go numb,and the saddle seems pretty uncomfortable.
Is there a guide available somewhere to suggest sizing guidelines for a hybrid?
#2
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Some stock seats are damn near worthless. I replaced my Trek (Bontrager saddle) on my road bike after the first week. Of course, chasing the perfect saddle can be an expensive undertaking (and very personal), so some cooperation by your dealer is most appreciated. And what fits me may not fit you at all...
I personally do not like bikes that limit hand positions. I move my hands a lot. So if yours has flat bars, you might want to try Trekking bars instead (lots of threads on that topic, cheap change, can reuse your existing controls, etc). Nashbar sells alloy trekking bars for about $20....
Saddle height and position (how far forward or back and tilt) can all contribute to problems. There are a lot of old threads on those topics.
Does your bike have a suspension seat post? I hate them personally (thats another thread). It is an easy fix to substitute a standard seat post. Despite my bias in this regard, I do not think it is causing your problem. But I would pick up the appropriate size post off of ebay or similar...
I personally do not like bikes that limit hand positions. I move my hands a lot. So if yours has flat bars, you might want to try Trekking bars instead (lots of threads on that topic, cheap change, can reuse your existing controls, etc). Nashbar sells alloy trekking bars for about $20....
Saddle height and position (how far forward or back and tilt) can all contribute to problems. There are a lot of old threads on those topics.
Does your bike have a suspension seat post? I hate them personally (thats another thread). It is an easy fix to substitute a standard seat post. Despite my bias in this regard, I do not think it is causing your problem. But I would pick up the appropriate size post off of ebay or similar...
#3
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I think it might help to know your size, and the frame size of the bike.
#4
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I have a Trek 7.3 and hated only having one hand position so I added a set of bar ends (rams horns) that point forward and inward. Much happier now
#5
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Let us know what frame size you picked out, inseam, and height. Having that information will make it possible to determine a proper saddle height. Also, +1 for the Ergon grips, they are awesome. Lastly, the stem on the 7200 is adjustable, so if leaning too far forward or being upright is part of the issue, that can be adjusted out. ONLY adjust the UNDERSIDE bolt (6mm Allen) and not the side bolts when adjusting the stem.
#6
Senior Member
If you're getting back into riding after a very long layoff some of this will take care of itself as you ride more. A lot of it is about a few muscles that are riding only related protesting.
As for the bike fit I'm assuming that you took it for a test ride and it seemed pretty good for that. So it can't be too far off the mark.
However there are a few points to look at.
Hand numbness is as much about gripping too tightly as it is about leaning too much on your hands. Try to tension your body a little so you don't just relax on the bike. Instead try to get your stomach muscles to join in on the fun by slightly supporting your upper body. After all, you ARE trying to get some exercise, right? By all means move the bars up and back at first but keep in mind that as you advance you'll want to move them forward and down again.
The saddle pain can be a combo of things. I find I don't like to sit on the saddle for long. When I do my bum hurts after a while and my feet go to sleep from having some of the circulation get cut off. Instead I pedal for a moment and then stand on one of the pedals and coast for another moment. Roughly 5 to 10 seconds pedalling and 5 to 10 coasting. I don't actually lift up more than a fraction of an inch. Just take the weight on one or the other leg while it is fully extended. Try it, it really helps.
If you still get numb feet then it may be that the edges of the saddle are cutting into your inner thigh muscles and applying pressure to limit the blood flow. A wide saddle seems like a good idea at first but in practice it really limits you. Wide is OK for beach cruiser that don't really go fast or far but if you're riding longer rides you want a comfy well shaped but fairly narrow saddle. Think of your saddle as a positioning device more than a place to park the bum. It's a little of both but you need to get it so it is serious enough that it doesn't apply pressure to your thigh muscles.
If you still get numb feet than look around for larger pedals and at the same time get some shoes with a much stiffer insole. Sneakers with soft almost cloth like soles will not work at all. You want something that will spread out the load. Work on moving your foot around as well. The balls of the foot should be over the pedal axle but some like it just a hair ahead and some like it a hair back from the balls of the foot.
As for the bike fit I'm assuming that you took it for a test ride and it seemed pretty good for that. So it can't be too far off the mark.
However there are a few points to look at.
Hand numbness is as much about gripping too tightly as it is about leaning too much on your hands. Try to tension your body a little so you don't just relax on the bike. Instead try to get your stomach muscles to join in on the fun by slightly supporting your upper body. After all, you ARE trying to get some exercise, right? By all means move the bars up and back at first but keep in mind that as you advance you'll want to move them forward and down again.
The saddle pain can be a combo of things. I find I don't like to sit on the saddle for long. When I do my bum hurts after a while and my feet go to sleep from having some of the circulation get cut off. Instead I pedal for a moment and then stand on one of the pedals and coast for another moment. Roughly 5 to 10 seconds pedalling and 5 to 10 coasting. I don't actually lift up more than a fraction of an inch. Just take the weight on one or the other leg while it is fully extended. Try it, it really helps.
If you still get numb feet then it may be that the edges of the saddle are cutting into your inner thigh muscles and applying pressure to limit the blood flow. A wide saddle seems like a good idea at first but in practice it really limits you. Wide is OK for beach cruiser that don't really go fast or far but if you're riding longer rides you want a comfy well shaped but fairly narrow saddle. Think of your saddle as a positioning device more than a place to park the bum. It's a little of both but you need to get it so it is serious enough that it doesn't apply pressure to your thigh muscles.
If you still get numb feet than look around for larger pedals and at the same time get some shoes with a much stiffer insole. Sneakers with soft almost cloth like soles will not work at all. You want something that will spread out the load. Work on moving your foot around as well. The balls of the foot should be over the pedal axle but some like it just a hair ahead and some like it a hair back from the balls of the foot.
#7
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I agree with BC, those padded saddles are a pain if you ride any distance. I picked up a specialized body geometry seat and it's helped quite a bit, along with alot of riding. https://bicyclesnyc.com/page.cfm?PageID=265
#8
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I agree with everybody in some of the points but after seen the TREK 7200 in pictures you guys really think getting the wrong size will make any different in the way that bike bahaves and rides???? Probably it will, but i'm sure some of you GOT where i'm going with my comment.
To finish i would like to point the original poster to this two bikes... (still dont understand why people might needs suspension in the seat and the fork to ride in the street or in a trail for 45 minutes)
Novara Buzz or Novara Buzz V Bike
Scott sub 30
Wish you the best
To finish i would like to point the original poster to this two bikes... (still dont understand why people might needs suspension in the seat and the fork to ride in the street or in a trail for 45 minutes)
Novara Buzz or Novara Buzz V Bike
Scott sub 30
Wish you the best
#9
Mikey
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I am 5'9" tall,168 lbs.,approx 31" inseam.
#10
Mikey
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Sorry,I forgot,the frame size is a 20",and it has riser type handlebars.
Thanks to everyone for your replies.
Thanks to everyone for your replies.
#11
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5.9 tall? well im a little bit taller than you and would have chosen a small instead of a medium.
The medium aka 20 inches it is too long (56.8 cm) Generally speaking trek bikes are too long.
Hope this guide you a little bit more. Coff cofff... novara..off... cofff....!!!!!
The medium aka 20 inches it is too long (56.8 cm) Generally speaking trek bikes are too long.
Hope this guide you a little bit more. Coff cofff... novara..off... cofff....!!!!!
#12
Senior Member
The 7200 is basically a mountain bike frame with 700c wheels. As such I think mountain bike frame sizing applies. At 5'9" I'd have to say that a 20 inch frame is likely too big for you even with the funky adjustable stem. I'm 6'1" and commuted on a 21 for a few years and even with a fairly short stem it forced me into a pretty aggresive posture. And since you' seem to be having troubles in this regard it seems like it may well be too large.
#13
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I agree with everybody in some of the points but after seen the TREK 7200 in pictures you guys really think getting the wrong size will make any different in the way that bike bahaves and rides???? Probably it will, but i'm sure some of you GOT where i'm going with my comment.
Originally Posted by Mike LaPrade
I am 5'9" tall,168 lbs.,approx 31" inseam. ... the frame size is a 20",and it has riser type handlebars.
#14
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That frame does seem a little large for you. It still may work. I'd see about getting your handlebars up higher and a better saddle. Unfortunately, no one can really recommend a saddle; you just need to try some. I also think some of your numbness is just what I like to refer to as "ass conditioning". Takes a little while to break your butt into riding regularly.
#15
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Anything that will create more hand positions for you should take care of the hands issue. Something like extenders, aerobars or trekking bars as previously suggested. I toured on an equivalent Giant FCR3 but added extenders and taped my bar with cork. Also try playing with your seat position as that is as important as the seat choice itself.
#16
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My wife at 5'6" rides a trek hybrid with a 20" frame. As adjustable as they are, that should be a good size for him. https://cyclecraft.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=4662
#17
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My wife at 5'6" rides a trek hybrid with a 20" frame. As adjustable as they are, that should be a good size for him. https://cyclecraft.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=4662
#18
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Instead of changing the seat post, I've tightened the bolt in the bottom of the existing seat post (it tightens the spring down for the shock in the post - I hate that thing). I'm also working on leaning my stem back to the front. I'm trying to get a little more aggressive posture.
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Anything that will create more hand positions for you should take care of the hands issue. Something like extenders, aerobars or trekking bars as previously suggested. I toured on an equivalent Giant FCR3 but added extenders and taped my bar with cork. Also try playing with your seat position as that is as important as the seat choice itself.
#21
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That's way too big. I'm 5'9" and my 17" Trek 7300 is juuust too big for me. My 6500 is a 16" and is really just right. (Note that I've got a much shorter stem on the Grey Fox now and it's still too long. It's designed for flat bars and I've got bullhorns. An even shorter stem would do me well.)
#22
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I'm always surprised when I see what size people choose. IMHO, your bike is the right size. I tend to prefer longer bikes, and some like shorter bikes.
All my bikes with straight handlebars are between 18,5" and 20" in size, but have similar top tube length, around 23" (~590mm) and have 120mm or 135mm stems. My bike with drop handlebars is a 54 cm with a 550mm long top tube and a 100mm stem. All my bikes fit me very well.
I'm 174 cm tall ( ~5'8½") with a 83 cm inseam (32½").
All my bikes with straight handlebars are between 18,5" and 20" in size, but have similar top tube length, around 23" (~590mm) and have 120mm or 135mm stems. My bike with drop handlebars is a 54 cm with a 550mm long top tube and a 100mm stem. All my bikes fit me very well.
I'm 174 cm tall ( ~5'8½") with a 83 cm inseam (32½").