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new bike frame, old wheels

Old 08-13-08, 02:15 PM
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monkistan
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new bike frame, old wheels

Hi,

I'm just about to pick up a 1990's Bianchi San Remo frame. I'm pretty sure it has 130mm dropouts. My bike now has 126mm dropouts, and I was hoping to use the same wheelset (i like them and I don't have a ton of money to throw around). Is it possible to do this (possible meaning worth while, safe, and ok)

Thanks for your help.

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Old 08-13-08, 03:07 PM
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Squeezing the rear together 4mm won't hurt anything. The other option is to get slightly longer axles for the hubs.
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Old 08-13-08, 04:05 PM
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Not enough info:

As for the comment "Squeezing the rear together 4mm won't hurt anything." is the wrong way to go. By doing this you will put stress on the rear axle since the 126mm spacing hub will pull the rear dropouts out of alignment and in turn cause the rear axle to want to bend. This will casue the bearings to load up and kill the hub at some point. Yes, it is only 4mm but something has to give.

As to the commet about a new axle that is the way to go if your hub uses a common axle. If you hare using a Shimano or Campy tradition rear hub that has a normal threaded axle you can reaplce the rear axle with a longer one from Wheel Manufactoring and add two 2mm spacers between the cones and the lock nuts of the axle.

You MUST keep the rear dropouts in the proper alignemnt at all times.

I do not know how many times I have seen someone bend and or break rear axles in MTB's over the years because they used a 130mm wheel in a 135mm frame. It is only 5mm's!

Do it right or do not do it!
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Old 08-13-08, 04:49 PM
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Just add 2x2mm spacers to your rear-axle. There should still be enough sticking out past the lock-nuts to slide into the dropouts. Even if there's only a tiny bit left, it'll still be OK because once you tighten the QR, the load goes into the dropouts from the locknuts anyway.
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Old 08-14-08, 10:23 AM
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Thanks. I think I'll put on the spacers and see how that works.
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Old 08-14-08, 07:31 PM
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You may have to put your spacers all on the non-drive-side to keep your cassette where you want it (and then redish the wheel).
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Old 08-15-08, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tellyho View Post
You may have to put your spacers all on the non-drive-side to keep your cassette where you want it (and then redish the wheel).
That's probably the right way to do it. The benefit is when you redish the wheel, you will actually "undish" it somewhat which will improve the strength a bit.

As DannoXYZ noted, there will be enough axle protrusion left to hold the wheel properly even if you keep the 126 mm axle. The actual axle lengths are 131 mm for a 126 mm old hub and 141 mm for a 130 mm old hub. If you respace the current hub you will still have 3.5 mm of axle sticking out past each locknut and that's plenty.
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Old 08-15-08, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tkm433 View Post
Not enough info:

As for the comment "Squeezing the rear together 4mm won't hurt anything." is the wrong way to go. By doing this you will put stress on the rear axle since the 126mm spacing hub will pull the rear dropouts out of alignment and in turn cause the rear axle to want to bend. This will casue the bearings to load up and kill the hub at some point. Yes, it is only 4mm but something has to give.

As to the commet about a new axle that is the way to go if your hub uses a common axle. If you hare using a Shimano or Campy tradition rear hub that has a normal threaded axle you can reaplce the rear axle with a longer one from Wheel Manufactoring and add two 2mm spacers between the cones and the lock nuts of the axle.

You MUST keep the rear dropouts in the proper alignemnt at all times.

I do not know how many times I have seen someone bend and or break rear axles in MTB's over the years because they used a 130mm wheel in a 135mm frame. It is only 5mm's!

Do it right or do not do it!
The OP is talking about a steel road frame; the 4mm won't matter, the dropouts will not lose alignment and the sun will probably rise tomorrow.

Loosen the bone, Wilma.
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