Is this junker worth turning into a fixie?
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Is this junker worth turning into a fixie?
I bought a Randor Seville road bicycle for $40, thinking I was getting a good deal. The bike is made in Taiwan and probably about 20 years old judging by it's looks. It's made of steel and weights about 30 lbs. (only about 3 lbs lighter than my mountain bike). The issue is that its rusty looking (needs some steel wool) and the front wheel is very wobbly (2 broken spokens). I'm not sure if the wheel is worth truing, as all the spokes are rusted and I'd probably have to replace all of them. My best guess is that I'll need to buy a new front wheel. The brakes, handlebars, frame, etc, are all good (old and rusty but good).
Where can I find a cheap front wheel for this bike? The wheel looks bigger than my 26" mountain bike wheel, so I'm assuming it's 27 inches, but the tire on it says 26 x 1 3/8. ???
Not to mention, eventually when I make it a fixie I'll need to buy a new rear wheel probably (because I hear it's unsafe to screw on a single sprocket on and it's hard to lock down).
But for the time being, I just wanna see how this runs when it's road worthy.
So what should I do about the front wheel?
Where can I find a cheap front wheel for this bike? The wheel looks bigger than my 26" mountain bike wheel, so I'm assuming it's 27 inches, but the tire on it says 26 x 1 3/8. ???
Not to mention, eventually when I make it a fixie I'll need to buy a new rear wheel probably (because I hear it's unsafe to screw on a single sprocket on and it's hard to lock down).
But for the time being, I just wanna see how this runs when it's road worthy.
So what should I do about the front wheel?
#2
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26 x 1 3/8" wheels aren't very common anymore. Cheap replacements are available at any bike shop.
I wouldn't waste your time making it into a fixie. You'll have to have a custom handbuilt wheel made- this is not something that's available off-the-shelf. By the time you pay for that, you'll spend more than you paid for the whole bike to begin with.
$40 for an old Randor (I think this was a division of Raleigh way back when) is a lot. I think they sold for $120-150 when new.
I wouldn't waste your time making it into a fixie. You'll have to have a custom handbuilt wheel made- this is not something that's available off-the-shelf. By the time you pay for that, you'll spend more than you paid for the whole bike to begin with.
$40 for an old Randor (I think this was a division of Raleigh way back when) is a lot. I think they sold for $120-150 when new.
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#3
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And to add to the confusion, there are 2 different 26x1-3/8" sizes.
590 and the less common 597MM.
https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
590 and the less common 597MM.
https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
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so I paid $40 for it, did I get ripped off?
What should I do now, just sit it out by the curb with a "free" sign on it and chalk it up as a loss?
What should I do now, just sit it out by the curb with a "free" sign on it and chalk it up as a loss?
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You didn't get ripped off. That would imply someone victimized you. You chose and willingly paid for that particular bike without knowing what you were doing.
You are fortunate that you pissed away a mere $40. Most kids have their first experience with this sort of real life disillusionment with clapped out automobiles.
Next time know what you want and what it is you're buying.
You are fortunate that you pissed away a mere $40. Most kids have their first experience with this sort of real life disillusionment with clapped out automobiles.
Next time know what you want and what it is you're buying.
Last edited by Noam Zane; 08-20-08 at 12:08 PM.
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You didn't get ripped off. That would imply someone victimized you. You chose and willingly paid for that particular bike without knowing what you were doing.
You are fortunate that you pissed away a mere $40. Most kids have their first experience with this sort of real life disillusionment with clapped out automobiles.
Next time know what you what and what it is you're buying.
You are fortunate that you pissed away a mere $40. Most kids have their first experience with this sort of real life disillusionment with clapped out automobiles.
Next time know what you what and what it is you're buying.
I disagree. I think this could be a fine townie bike if it fits and there isn't much more wrong with it than the front wheel. Probably not worth upgrading or madifying into another style of bike, but the OP could probably ride and enjoy this older bike for years with a little maintenance, and have a much cooler bike (and less likely to be stolen) than anything you can get at Target or XMart.
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How much clearance is there between the tire and the fork? If it can take a bigger tire, there's no reason he has to replace it with a 1 3/8" tire, since he's replacing the whole wheel. For the same reason, the wheel size issue probably won't matter much either.
Even if it ends up off by about a half inch of height on the front wheel, couldn't the poor guy just get a used, standard MTB rim (559mm) with about a 1.5" tire, and ride the bike? Should cost him another $20 tops.
Even if it ends up off by about a half inch of height on the front wheel, couldn't the poor guy just get a used, standard MTB rim (559mm) with about a 1.5" tire, and ride the bike? Should cost him another $20 tops.
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chances are that front hub is narrower than the standard front hub width. In which case I would NOT buy a new standard wheel and 'force' it in.
I'd maybe make this a townie fix to leave locked up outside, etc. but I'd limit spending.
Personally I'd clean the bike up, maybe paint it once all the rust is off (I'm talking rattlecan, not a shop job), and keep eyes open for a another 26" wheeled 10 speed or a three speed in the trash you can pinch a front wheel from. I'd break it on down and o/h the headset, BB and check all steel at joints for cracks, ripples, deep rust and seam splits.
Assuming the frame is salvageable and you score another front wheel, I'd put my cash into: New Chain, $10ish (Walmart BMX, not a blingy colored chain), new brake, $25ish (basic dual pivot but not rusty) and cable ($5-10?), for front at least, and a plain jane new rear fixed 700c wheel ($75ish). That you can move over to another bike if need be.
No harm in buying a cheapie but don't waste time and money on upgrading it.
I'd maybe make this a townie fix to leave locked up outside, etc. but I'd limit spending.
Personally I'd clean the bike up, maybe paint it once all the rust is off (I'm talking rattlecan, not a shop job), and keep eyes open for a another 26" wheeled 10 speed or a three speed in the trash you can pinch a front wheel from. I'd break it on down and o/h the headset, BB and check all steel at joints for cracks, ripples, deep rust and seam splits.
Assuming the frame is salvageable and you score another front wheel, I'd put my cash into: New Chain, $10ish (Walmart BMX, not a blingy colored chain), new brake, $25ish (basic dual pivot but not rusty) and cable ($5-10?), for front at least, and a plain jane new rear fixed 700c wheel ($75ish). That you can move over to another bike if need be.
No harm in buying a cheapie but don't waste time and money on upgrading it.
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fix
go to fixed gear gallery--- If the idea of making and riding a single speed( or fixed gear) really
appeals to you-- sell what you got--- shop around, test ride then decide and buy
appeals to you-- sell what you got--- shop around, test ride then decide and buy
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I'd bet that you could put some 700c wheels on there and be perfectly happy with it. If worse comes to worst, you might have to replace the fork, but it's steel; I bet you can bend it into place.
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Only if the 700c wheel fits his fork. If it does, he's golden.
Vertically your tire should clear no problem. But unless his fork is standard 100mm width you'd have to either build a new 700c rim onto the old hub - which is a waste of time & money imo - or force the modern hub into a 96mm space, splaying the rusty 20-yr-old hi-ten or pig iron fork blades out 2mm on either side.....not a great idea in terms of safety. The only other option there is to install a new 700c fork, which will may require a new headset as well. Again, rather throwing good money after bad imo.
I'd sort out the front wheel cheaply, and then go ahead and pop a 700c fixed wheel in rear. but it's your money/neck.
Vertically your tire should clear no problem. But unless his fork is standard 100mm width you'd have to either build a new 700c rim onto the old hub - which is a waste of time & money imo - or force the modern hub into a 96mm space, splaying the rusty 20-yr-old hi-ten or pig iron fork blades out 2mm on either side.....not a great idea in terms of safety. The only other option there is to install a new 700c fork, which will may require a new headset as well. Again, rather throwing good money after bad imo.
I'd sort out the front wheel cheaply, and then go ahead and pop a 700c fixed wheel in rear. but it's your money/neck.
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Last edited by pgoat; 08-21-08 at 11:13 AM.
#12
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Do you want to give up the front brake? Going to a different size rim will pretty much force you to.
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I would donate this bike to your favorite charity, and look for a better candidate for your project.