rocdoc

So, I am a complete newb. I bought a GT Timberline bike to get into biking relatively seriously on a budget. After 2 days I noticed the front derailleur will not push the chain on the large ring. I am doing things right, only trying to shift there from the high gears on 2nd ring etc. I took it back to performance bike, and the shop guy said the way these cheaper transmissions work is you have to actually yank hard at the shifter while pedaling a good few revolutions and it eventually shifts. He demonstrated and I did it too. Is that right? My wife bought a Schwin Sierra for less money, and hers just clicks into place right away. So, are they bull****ting me, or given that I got the bottom of the line I will just have to grind and push and jam at it to do what I want it to? And if so, how much more should I pay/ how much higher in the line should I go to get a transmission that will shift smoothly? I paid $300 for this bike, the Timberline Sport bike is 360, I was not sure it would be a difference to make the extra $ worth.
Remember, big time noob, and not exactly mechanically inclined...
Thank you all in advance

curbtender

Your cable may have some slack from stretching. Though the twist grips aren't the best, they usually can be made to work. Put the shift in "1" and see if the cable is loose.

rocdoc

Thanks curbtender. They fiddled with it for half an hour at shop today, they would have picked that up I hope. I mean this is why I decided to pay the higher price at the specialty neighborhood store, otherwise one can go to the BigMart and get the same bike for half the price. I would like to trust that I don't have to double check their mechanics. Or do I?...

rocdoc

Any other ideas? Thanks

CACycling

Spent quite a bit of time today at our local Performance Bike Shop getting my wife's front derailler problems solved. I'd taken it in for adjustment several times and it worked fine on the stand but my wife could rarely get it to shift to the big ring. Had it in again last Tuesday and thought they had it solved. Left on a ride this morning and she couldn't get it to shift. We rode to the shop and decided we wouldn't leave till it was working. After several adjustments and test rides, they finally upgraded the 105 derailer to Ultegra at no cost. Shifts fine now. Persistence helps so take the bike back and get them to fix it to your satisfaction.

rocdoc

Aha! Thanks CACycling. I will do that. I am still thinking I should maybe upgrade to the next model up, which has a better transmission. Or get them to do a better job on the damn thing. It does shift a bit better now, but it grinds quite a bit to get there, enough to get everyone on the street turn and look to see what the noise is. I will go back tomorrow.

rickowensis

90% of shifting issues are caused by cable/housing issues such as poor cable routing, severe rather than gentle housing bends or lack of lubrication.
Regarding the front derailleur, a few things to check: 1) Height and angle of f. der. in relation to chainrings. 2) High limit adjuster possibly set a bit too tight, not allowing chain to shift easily to large chainring. 3) Cable tension.
Good luck!

BarracksSi

Try here:
https://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/

As they say, "It ain't rocket science." Every time I've had to figure out how to adjust my bikes' derailleurs, I've said, "Oh, duh, I get it now," once I get it right.

Mondoman

2nd CAC's suggestion. Even cheap derailleurs should work decently until they're damaged/worn out. I've got a bike with even cheaper front/rear derailleurs than yours and had issues with shifting and chain noises. Lots of adjusting of front and back derailleurs never really solved the problem. After some research, I took a look at the rear derailleur mount and found it was bent in a fair bit; I got it aligned decently and now I've got nice smooth shifts and no more chain noises.

DannoXYZ 

If it shifts on the stand but not on the road, this is almost always a rider-technique issue. Happens all the time with new riders and new bikes. You simply cannot shift the FD while applying force on the pedals. The tight chain from your leg-muscles simply cannot be overcome with finger pressure. The easy way to shift is to lighten up on the pedals, but keep the RPMs high. So... before you shift, speed up a little by spinning faster. Then lighten up on the pedal-force, soft-pedaling, and then shift as you're decelerating.

This is especially important in shifting from the big to small ring since now it's only spring-pressure that's pushing on the chain.

rocdoc

Ha! Thanks Dano. I will do that and see what the outcome is. It may very well be my noobiness (new word, use it!). I think I may still change to the Timberline Sport model, if only for the better chair (big time ouchy in the backside from the one I have now...). What do you guys think? Worth the 60 bucks upgrade for the better chair, slightly lighter frame, one step up transmission, lockable front suspension?

rocdoc

O hai again. I tried what Dano suggested. I am either more inept than expected, or the thing is just not a great gear set. I gave up on upgrading to the next model up because they did not have it in the store. So, I am going to stay with this bike and ride until I or it gets better Got me a flashy new saddle, I'm a real chick magnet now! Of course, so far the only chicks interested are my wife and my cat, but still...
Seriously though, easing up on the pedals after switching gears just makes it keep grinding and not shifting. The thing I found works is pulling harder on the shifter, and going past the position, ie when trying to shift into 2nd move it toward 3rd or all the way to 3rd briefly, then let it back into 2nd. When shifting into 3rd hold it past the 3rd position and after a revolution and a half it goes in. The guy at the shop said this is the way these low end of the line transmissions work. Should the above improve with just tightening the cable or re-adjusting? Should I attempt that myself or take it to the shop? And another question: for this kind of work, should I get a work stand for the bike? They have some cheap (and cheap-looking) ones at the performance bike near me.
Thanks all

CACycling

At least you found a way to get things working and that is a good thing. On a lower level bike I have, changing the 2200 series FD to a Sora made a big improvement in shifting. Picked the FD up for less than $20 incl. S+H.

If you are going to ride it is a good idea to learn how to work on your own bike. Not only will it save you money but it might save you a long walk if you encounter a problem on the road. The cheap work stands at Performance hold the back wheel off the ground and steady the bike. This allows you to do pretty much everything you need to do except front brakes and truing the front wheel. It is what I am using at this time and it works. I'd love to have a real work stand but don't have the room for it so this was a good alternative. You'll also need to start getting tools together. There are some decent and inexpensive tool kits or you can just buy them as you need them. Good luck and have fun with it.

DannoXYZ 

It's letting up on the pedals BEFORE you shift that's the key. You want to reduce tension on the chain first. Then the FD will have an easier time bending the chain sideways.

YOU'VE FOUND IT! The "overshifting" is pretty much always required to make the FD shift cleanly. Even with indexed front-shifters, they have "overshift" built into the lever. You actually pull the lever past the click position to shift the FD, then when you release the lever, it moves back and stops at the click. If you look at the FD, it does that same motion you've learned, it moves past the chainring slightly to push the chain on, then moves back to prevent rubbing on the inside cage.