Lube cassette mount or not?
 

Just putting together my new bike and I just started wondering should I, or am I supposed to lube the cassette mount? Just to be clear I'm not asking about lubing the cassette but the thing on the rear hub where the cassette mounts to.

It can't hurt, and it will offer some protection against corrosion - so go for in. A thin sheen will do.

Steel freehub bodies can use a film of grease to prevent corrosion. Al and Ti bodies aren't as vulnerable but it certainly can't hurt.

To answer the question ask yourself "Is the location in question made of metal which might corrode?" and "Is the location in question metal-moving-on-metal?" In both of those situations grease will help.

Yes, but like others said, light. If not, it could be pushed out a little and collect dirt and grime.

Lube it all, In fact for that task I lay it on as more than just a sheen. You don't want enough that it squshes out all over the place but a little more is better than not enough. It'll stop corrosion as mentioned but it also will avoid any squeaks, creaks or clicks that could occur otherwise.

Quick verification: wouldn't you theoretically want a thin layer to protect Al and Ti from bonding to the free hub? Close contact, Ti likes sticking to things anyway...

I say, wouldn't hurt.

For Ti vs. Al, wouldn't Ti Prep be more effective?

Nickel Anti-Seize is what you want to use with Ti and it's good as a general use anti-seize. Just do a search and look at the recommendation charts of the various anti-seize manufacturers. Nickel anti-seize costs a bit more than the more commonly available copper or zinc anti-seize, but it's cheaper than the rebranded bicycle ones.

As far as the OP's question, can use a good marine grease or Mystic JT6 grease (even Wal*Mart started to stock it now...get the green label) if you don't have any anti-seize compound handy.

I'm going to vote contrary to the popular opinion so far. For anti corrosion, a wipe with an oily rag will suffice. There is no moving metal surface here to lube. The application of grease or unneaded lubes attract and hold dirt. The gap between cassette and hub splines is not tight enough to worry about metal siezing.

Maybe more effective but unnecessary. I have a 9-speed era Dura Ace rear hub with the Ti freehub body that now has 45,000 miles on it and has been through at least 8 different cassettes without the slightest sign of sticking or galling. This is not harsh, high speed or high temperature service.

Is anything on a bike technically high speed or high temperature when you consider that a good amount of bike lubricants were derived and/or rebranded car, marine, machinery, etc. lubricants?

clean dry surfaces-- you could wipe alittle 3 in1 on the body--- anything that squeezes itself
amongst the cogs could be worse than you think and mix with other chemicals used for lubrication-- in the moisture a big mess-- make sure your cassette is clean, fresh, and tightly bound....
I use aluminum spacers-- not plastic and a steel lock ring... not aluminum....most lock rings have
a wafer thin anti-sieze shim-- I take that off and use a touch of white grease... my2$

oy
 

if this is a screw on cassette and not a cassette body--- ya grease the threads--oy.:twitchy:

The freehub body, if that is what you are referring to, screws on to the hub, at least for Shimano.

if you are mounting a "new" cassette body onto a hub-- use grease-- wait, use grease, ya youz greese

You should not grease the freehub splines where the cassette is mounted. There should be no motion between the two and greasing this interface will do nothing but gather dirt. At most all you need is a thin later of oil, and dry is OK.
There has been a fairly recent thread on this.
The Park Tool instructions recommend greasing the lockring threads. They say nothing about lubricating the splines or outside of the freehub where the cassette mounts. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

Al