Rear rimis 2mm off to the non-drive side
09-30-08, 09:51 AM
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Rear rimis 2mm off to the non-drive side
Is this acceptable? My drive side spokes are very tight, significantly tighter than the left. The wheel has nine gears, so the drive side spokes are almost vertical, and I fear that the amount of force it would take to pull the rim over would cause some spokes to break.
Part of the reason I rebuilt this wheel was because I noticed that the rim was off center, so, when I began tightening the spokes, I tightened all the drive side first, to a medium tension, hoping that it would pull enough to compensate for the subsequent pull from the non drive side.
On wheels I have built before, with less gears (single speed, bmx, fixed gear), centering was not a problem, which is why I ask.
Part of the reason I rebuilt this wheel was because I noticed that the rim was off center, so, when I began tightening the spokes, I tightened all the drive side first, to a medium tension, hoping that it would pull enough to compensate for the subsequent pull from the non drive side.
On wheels I have built before, with less gears (single speed, bmx, fixed gear), centering was not a problem, which is why I ask.
09-30-08, 10:42 AM
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I wouldn't say 2mm is gonna damage anything. But If I were you I'd get it centered properly.
09-30-08, 01:12 PM
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As you're probably aware, drive-side spokes are supposed to be tighter than non-drive-side spokes in nearly all "traditional" rear wheels of multi-speed bikes. This is to make room for the gears.
If the drive-side spokes are too tight, you risk their pulling through the rim or cracking the rim.
If the non-drive-side spokes are too loose, you risk the nipples loosening under the vibration of riding.
The general strategy is to build the drive-side spokes to maximum safe tension (most rims are rated for a certain tension) and then have the non-drive-side spokes end up wherever they end up once the rim is centered.
2mm isn't a problem, but I'd wonder whether you have the drive-side spokes too tight, and risk cracking your rim. You can buy a tensionmeter, or at a rudimentary level use the "check spoke tension by ear" method (provided you can recognize tones and differentiate between tones that are one step apart - most people can but some people are basically tone-deaf and can't do this).
Here's a guide:
https://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm
Here is a handy little tuner (produces notes on call) if you don't have a pitch pipe or piano handy.
Java Tuner
If the drive-side spokes are too tight, you risk their pulling through the rim or cracking the rim.
If the non-drive-side spokes are too loose, you risk the nipples loosening under the vibration of riding.
The general strategy is to build the drive-side spokes to maximum safe tension (most rims are rated for a certain tension) and then have the non-drive-side spokes end up wherever they end up once the rim is centered.
2mm isn't a problem, but I'd wonder whether you have the drive-side spokes too tight, and risk cracking your rim. You can buy a tensionmeter, or at a rudimentary level use the "check spoke tension by ear" method (provided you can recognize tones and differentiate between tones that are one step apart - most people can but some people are basically tone-deaf and can't do this).
Here's a guide:
https://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm
Here is a handy little tuner (produces notes on call) if you don't have a pitch pipe or piano handy.
Java Tuner
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09-30-08, 03:50 PM
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Bill
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How did you measure the 2mm?
There are 2 common positions to measure it using a dish guage. It can be measured with both ends of the guage touching the rim and measure the gap at the hub. And it can be measured with one end of the guage touching and the center point touching and the gap measured at the other end of the guage at the rim. Measuring the gap at the rim rather than in the center has the advantage magnifying the dish error by a factor of two. Barnett's manual says 2mm or less measured at the rim is good enough and that would be equivalent to 1mm if measured at the hub.
Dish error can affect bike handling and rim brake alignment.
There are 2 common positions to measure it using a dish guage. It can be measured with both ends of the guage touching the rim and measure the gap at the hub. And it can be measured with one end of the guage touching and the center point touching and the gap measured at the other end of the guage at the rim. Measuring the gap at the rim rather than in the center has the advantage magnifying the dish error by a factor of two. Barnett's manual says 2mm or less measured at the rim is good enough and that would be equivalent to 1mm if measured at the hub.
Dish error can affect bike handling and rim brake alignment.
