kendelo

Any suggestions or recommendations on frame material. I am 6"1' and weigh 220 (hopefully to lose some wt., but we'll see). My present bike is an all aluminum Cannondale (R300) and I'm looking to upgrade. I rode 2,800 miles last year (solo rides, group rides, charity rides, etc.) on the old aluminum (no carbon fork) and it beat me up pretty bad. Looking to upgrade bike with much newer components. Carbon, steel, titanium, aluminum for a guy my size???? Would like to keep to a $2,200 budget. Any help?

phantomcow2

What kind of riding do you plan to do?

DieselDan

Stick to a single material frame with a 32 or 36 spoke wheel. A carbon fork would be fine, just no carbon stays on an aluminum, steel, or ti frame.

sydney

Why not?

Bike_13

(Interjecting and giving my opinion to a question to another) I have found that the whole Carbon stays thing:

1. Works - the ride is less harsh
2. Vastly increases the price of the frame
3. Increases weight (in most cases - the carbon, and associated AL gubbins to build/bolt it in add weight to the frame)

IMHO, it's a bit of a fad, and I think we are more likely to see Carbon/metal hybrids like the Can Six13 and Lemond "Spine Design" frames in the future.

Also IMHO, newer* road Cannondales have come a very long way in the shock absorbtion. Even though they still make the rears out of AL, the butting, profile and curve of the stays produces a quite compliant ride (not quite a comfy as steel, but not that far off).

*Not sure on the age of the R300 mentioned, but if it is more than a couple of years old, yep, they are boneshakers! Stiff and strong though.

There is no real answer to the original post though - you need to test ride and make up your mind based on what feel right for you.

Remember too that frame material is far less important than frame fit - make sure it fits you well.

kendelo

Thanks for your help? The R300 is 10 years old with original drive-train and pedals....so any upgrade will be a significant difference. Should a guy my size (6'1" and 220#) stay away from an all carbon frame?

sydney

No! Treks says their OCLV is good for 250 pounds, and heavier ride it. Other brands may vary. Ask maker for any weight limits.

DieselDan

All carbon is fine. Just check with the manufactuer about a weight limit.

late

Hi,
I am also a Clydesdale. I worry about wheels as much as frames. My personal preference is Ti, then steel, then carbon.
Ti is just plain tough, steel lasts for decades. I am a little worried about the longevity of carbon, but it has piqued my interest.
Basically there's a million 'flavors' out there. What you need to do is find a company that makes a frame that suits your proportions; and also has a model that suits your needs. Here are some bikes I like...
The Habanero uses typical road bike geometry and titanium to get
the sweetest ride I have ever experienced on a bike. Titanium has a 'buy it and forget about it' quality I like.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/habanero.html

Some bikes just seem to plant a goofy smile on your face. The Gunnar Sport is one of them. I really like this bike...
https://www.gunnarbikes.com/sport.php

I haven't tried a Trek Pilot yet, but I read a review that made me want to...

But the bottom line is this.. you need to hit a ton of bike shops,and try a ton of different bikes. Take your time, and that includes taking enough time on the test ride to get an idea of what the bike is really like. I always find a hill, get out of the saddle and accelerate up the hill. This is not something I do in real life, I can't maintain that level of effort. But it tells me how much bottom bracket flex is going on. I want a little, I don't want a lot.

MichaelW

The Gunnar Sport is a useful style of bike for non-racing use. It isn't a full-on touring bike but gives you useful options for fitting wider tyres, fenders and some light luggage. I use a bike of this style for most of my riding. The key points are the frame clearance for long drop caliper brakes, threaded eyelets for fitting stuff and a more relaxed riding position and steering geometry. Although these features are sometimes found on entry-level road bikes, it is rarer to find them on higher quality frames.

Al.canoe

I'm "only" 175 & 6', but I like stout bikes, especially in the fork area. That was one of several reasons I went with a frame/fork suitable for, but not limited too cyclocross. I wanted something suitable for carrying around 50 lbs of gear (rear rack) and could support fenders when I wanted to put them on. I also wanted a high level of comfort and good performance.

I wound up with an Airborne Ti Carpe Diem frame/fork and built-up my own bike. It's a lot of fun, good handling and very comfortable. Several have been taken cross country. The last one I read about averaged over 100 miles/day for 3500 miles.

The fork by the way is 780 gm of carbon fiber: about twice the weight of a typical road carbon fork.
Al

lsd87

I ride a specialized sequoia. After looking at the gunnar sport, I'm tempted to switch frames. I think it's calling me!

late

I found the ride of the Carpe Diem to be a little too stiff for my taste.
This was not helped by my choice of wheels (CXP33 rims).
There are many things I like, even love, about the bike.
But if I was to do it over, I'd get something else.

wildjim

Here is some documents for reading. Maybe it will help you choose.

https://www.damonrinard.com/EFBe/frame_fatigue_test.htm

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard_frametest.html

https://www.cyclingforums.com/showthread.php?t=94997

drcrash

An Atlantis by Rivendell would be a good all-around, very sturdy choice... and they are pretty, too.