Bike shop charging extra for destroying freewheel?
10-16-08, 12:24 PM
#26
Senior Member
One of the worst things a shop has to deal with is someone who brings in a just a hub to be rebuilt into a complete wheel but neglects to take off the freewheel or cassette first.
Often they have cut the old spokes and leave the stubs on the drive side since thay couldn't be removed with the freewheel/cassette still in place. The only way for the shop to handle it is to lace up the wheel on the nds and try to get enough strength to remove the cluster without damaging anything else.
Often they have cut the old spokes and leave the stubs on the drive side since thay couldn't be removed with the freewheel/cassette still in place. The only way for the shop to handle it is to lace up the wheel on the nds and try to get enough strength to remove the cluster without damaging anything else.
10-16-08, 12:26 PM
#27
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I remove the outer shell(the part with the cogs splined to it) by unscrewing the upper race. Then I take the ratchets out and clamp the area the ratchets fitted(above the threaded section) in a very large vice. Turn the bus left.
10-20-08, 03:42 PM
#28
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Thanks for this info! My Sachs-Maillard freewheel has been molested by my LBS as well, because they did not have the proper tool. They did give me a discount on the other work though, which is why I don't mind very much. Since the cogs are worn it probably needs to be replaced anyway, so I hope I will get it off with the "destructive" method.
10-20-08, 10:21 PM
#29
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The Maillard should not require the destructive removal method.
It is mounted with a rifled spline. You have a retaining lock ring. It is removed with a Maillard tool and then the freewheel twists off.
It is mounted with a rifled spline. You have a retaining lock ring. It is removed with a Maillard tool and then the freewheel twists off.
10-21-08, 09:33 AM
#30
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PB blaster is correct.
Wheel in vise (remover tool in vise, with freewheel in remover tool) is better than long wrench, because former allows pure torque. (left hand pulls tire, right hand pushes tire)
Wheel in vise (remover tool in vise, with freewheel in remover tool) is better than long wrench, because former allows pure torque. (left hand pulls tire, right hand pushes tire)
Last edited by dogsridewith; 10-21-08 at 09:37 AM. Reason: make more clear
10-21-08, 10:06 PM
#31
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Bikes: Iron Monkey: a junkyard steel 26" slick-tired city bike. Grey Fox: A Trek 7x00 frame, painted, with everything built, from spokes up. Jet Jaguar: A 92 Cannondale R900 frame, powder coated matte black with red and aluminum highlights.
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I just used an air hammer — the linear version of an impact wrench — to shock a seatpost free. We shot all sorts of lubes in there, heated up the post until it started to melt, stuck it in a vice and twisted, and nothing was working until the air hammer.
Sometimes, force is the answer. Just very directed and not often.
Sometimes, force is the answer. Just very directed and not often.
10-30-08, 05:23 PM
#32
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Well...I hope not but the thing is that the area fitting the Maillard removal tool, has been damaged to a certain extend that it can't get enough grip to use the force needed to loosen it. The edges of the "opening" have been damaged, which leaves only very little room for the tool to fit and causes it to easily slip out of the groove. Do you have any other solution to get it loose? I just read about using a vise, but will that work in this case?
10-30-08, 07:31 PM
#33
Senior Member
Well...I hope not but the thing is that the area fitting the Maillard removal tool, has been damaged to a certain extend that it can't get enough grip to use the force needed to loosen it. The edges of the "opening" have been damaged, which leaves only very little room for the tool to fit and causes it to easily slip out of the groove. Do you have any other solution to get it loose? I just read about using a vise, but will that work in this case?
