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stuck seat post, all my fault...

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stuck seat post, all my fault...

Old 12-10-08, 05:23 PM
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stuck seat post, all my fault...

I have read about a 1000 stuck seat post threads and Sheldon Brown's article on the topic so far, and I think my problem is unique.

I recently bought a used 20 year old Tommasini with SLX tubing. I removed all the components for cleaning, including the seat post, It took some effort to remove the post, lots of twisting and pulling but it did come out. I decided to apply frame saver before reassembly, I did not attempt to mask the area where the seat post is inserted, and I am guessing that is the root of my problem. When I reassembled the bike, I greased the seat post before I reinstalled it. I don't recall it being especially difficult to reinstall the post. Now a couple months later I can rotate the post using excessive force, enough to bend cheap saddle rails, but I can not move the post vertically. SInce I can rotate the post I have applied liquid wrench a couple times and turned the post in the frame to try and distribute it like Sheldon Brown's article on the topic suggests, but I still can not move this thing vertically.

I seems unlikely that this issue is caused by aluminum oxide bonding to the steel frame, so I don't know if amonia is worth trying here.. More likely the frame saver, and maybe something as a result of frame saver combined with the grease I used on the seat post is causing the bond in this case.

The good news I suppose is the post is close enough to the right hight for the B17 I installed after I cleaned the bike, so I can leave the bike like this indefinitely as long as I don't want to experiment with a different saddle. But I am afraid it will only get worse if I don't get it out and cleaned up somehow.

As usual any advice you can provide for my self inflicted situation would be appreciated.

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Old 12-10-08, 09:01 PM
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A seatpost should never be that tough to adjust. The seattube needs to be reamed to remove any burrs, corrosion, or whatever.
If the seatpost is spinning, then you should just need brute force to get it out. Using a bench vise to clamp onto a cheap old saddle that you've attached is a good way to go. You can twist and pull the entire bike to get it to slide out.
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Old 12-11-08, 10:51 AM
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+1 Install a junk seat, and keep turning it. Pick up some PB blaster (Walmart or Big Lots) and use it as well.
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Old 12-11-08, 01:04 PM
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Good avdice except you don't need the saddle; just tightly clamp the seat post into a sturdy (including the bench) vise and use the frame for leverage, twisting and pulling to get it out.

Remove the wheels first; no reason to mess those up, too.
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
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Old 12-11-08, 05:26 PM
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The issue with aluminum corrosion isn't always two metals bonding. Aluminum oxide takes up considerably more space than non oxidized aluminum. As a result it results in a seat that is hard to move even if the two surfaces are not bonded together. You can twist it because the effective radius of where you place your hands on your seat is much larger than that of the seat post inside the frame. This effectively multiplies the force allowing you to turn it. This is not the case when pulling up on it. However, static friction being lower than kinetic friction, if you have it already moving due to rotation, it will be easier to get it moving up. A bench vise would be best, but a seat will probably work as well. As it is already moving you should be able to get it out without heat, cutting the seat post out of the inside of the frame (this sucks, trust me) or anything else more drastic.
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