Building wheels with used rims
 

I am building a set of training wheels (32h 105 hubs/CXP33 or open pro) and wondering if anyone has had any problems building with used rims. I am trying to keep costs down since I intend on abusing these wheels with winter/training rides.

They will be a bit harder to true and a bit harder to round but has anyone ran into anything that I should look out for with used rims?

If the used rims are still laced, I would just use the old wheels.

If you insist on using old rims, then at least lay them flat on a glass table to see how straight they are. Just cutting out the spokes on a wheel to get at the rim can bend the rim beyond repair.

I've done this a few of times with good results. With unbent rims, truing is no different than using new rims. However, its hard sometimes to detect a slightly bent rim until you are well into the build and are finding it hard to get things dialed in. In one recent case, I had the whole wheel laced up before determing that the rim was bent (to get the wheel true, I wound up with a really tight spoke on one side, and really loose one on the other). So I disassembled and started over with a different rim. Also, take a close look for cracks around eyelets; they can be really small hard to see when the rim isn't under tension.

I have (for different reasons) moved some of my Mavic CXP33 between different hubs. No problem whatsoever. It is a stiff rim and to my recollection they where still absolutely true even though I had used them for quite some time.
The two main problems to look out for is of curse whether the rims are true or not, and if the sidewall is getting too thin. Thin sidewalls are usually concave in their shape because the brakes tend to gouge out the rim that way.
Rims with eyelets made of steel can have rust inside the nipple well, That rust can interact with the nipple causing click-noises. you can dampen the noise with oil but never remove the rust adequately so the problem will return.
Some (older?) Mavic CXP33 and Open Pro rims can have another ratteling/click-problem from a small pin from the welding proces that can come loose indside the rim causing noise. A little superglue through a nipple well at the rim joint solves that problem.

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Regards

So, could you tell us why the rims used to be built up but are currently not built up? That would seem to be very pertinent information for us to answer your question, no?

If the wheel was unbuilt because spokes started breaking, this is more likely to happen b/c spokes are too loose (fatigue to the elbow with repetitive stress) and in this case the rim is probably okay unless it was ridden for awhile with the broken spoke.

If a rim has dents, side-to-side wobble or a vertical hop, these will be difficult to get out in the wheelbuilding process, and if you can get the rim straight, it will mean that spoke tension isn't optimized or equal.

An undamaged rim will build up just like a new rim, no problem. But it's true, as DOS says, that it can be difficult to tell if a rim has problems. At least you should do the flat-table check as San Rensho suggests. And also check for cracks around any of the eyelets, as Dos suggests. But if you're confident the rim isn't damaged, then go ahead with it.

One thing that may be worthwhile, for a rear wheel, it to build the wheel with the rim flipped. So normally, rims are built with the logo being readable while standing on the drive-side of hte bike. Do the opposite. Because the drive-side spokes are much higher tension.
This way, if there are any not-yet-visible cracking of the eyelets (which would nearly-always come on the drive side) they'll now be paired with lower-tension spokes.

The rims are not laced.

I realize this is a gamble. In the past most used parts have worked out for me. Some have been failures but overall I think I have come out ahead.

It is tricky to assess a rim without being able to spin it though the table idea is a good one. :thumb:

Don't forget, a glass table. Other materials won't be as flat.

What don't you just go for Open Sport rims? They are cheap and reliable.

Holding the two unlaced rims together, perhaps rotating them a bit, would also likely show if the rims are wobbly, or laying an unlaced rim on top of a known true wheel.

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Regards

I've built several wheels using recycled rims.

First, let me say this: Factory built wheels are cheap. The reason for laceing up your own wheels is for the satisfaction of building the best wheel that you can. Starting with a less-than-perfect rim is counter productive so it pays to be picky from the start.

I absolutely agree with the glass table test. A large window will work too. If a rim has a tiny bit of wobble, I find where the bend is and try to true it over the edge of my bath tub.

Good luck.

I've reused rims, no problem. It's not as easy or perfect as using new ones, but for training wheels, who cares? I like to use parts until they are completely worn out- waste not want not and all that. If they have braking surface left, and aren't wildly bent, go for it. Be prepared for the spoke tension not to be perfectly even, and take the old wheels apart with a spoke key, not a pair of clippers.

i've built several wheels using mix and match parts; i learned how using http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

if your 105 hubs are in good shape and rims are not way out of true, then you can definitely make a respectable set of wheels; i've built some kid bike wheels using really crappy rims and gotten worthwhile results - they did need several re-truing efforts before the brakes no longer rubbed

save money? maybe; i built my own truing stand; made a nipple driver; bought cheap spoke wrenches and then got the spokeys later (get red if you get one and ride road bikes)

save time? no way, but that's not what it's about

don't expect anyone to be impressed that you built a set of wheels; normal people make an exceptional effort to avoid being drawn in to a discussion about wheel theory, measurement, lacing, dish, tension, and lateral and radial tension

I've built using those specific rims CXP33 with great results. I owned the rims from the time they were new and knew that they were in very good condition. I probably have 2000 miles on that wheel set right now. In fact the rear is on my trainer in the other room. I use them as my backup wheel set to loan out while I work on wheels for friends/family but I have no doubts that I could ride them on a tour tomorrow. Those are solid rims so if they are straight, and with the cautions others have given regarding small cracks etc. you should be OK.

I've put this rim on three different glass tables. All of my tables are crooked.

Used rims are fine. Just make sure they're fairly straight and round. If you build them up and find they're no good, you've only wasted your time, and you've learned something, so it's probably worth trying.