Clear coat
Any recommendation for a strong clear coat? I rattle canned a frame (primer, color, and clear coat, multiple layers of each, occasional wet sanding, let cure for a week before building up) and the lock is rubbing some paint off. Thanks! (I have access to an indoor airbrush if that is an option)
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I don't know too much about painting bikes, but I do know that you want a clear-coat to be the same type of paint (enamel, latex, etc.) as the main color coat. So check the paint type of your rattle-can.
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I recently had a frame powder coated. Does it matter what sort of clear coat I put on it?
I want to apply some vinyl lettering and stripes then put a protective coat over the top. Thanks for the information. |
Originally Posted by MadMabel
(Post 8396248)
I recently had a frame powder coated. Does it matter what sort of clear coat I put on it?
I want to apply some vinyl lettering and stripes then put a protective coat over the top. Thanks for the information. You'll want to use a urethane clear, as the thinner in a lacquer based paint will blister the vinyl and/or melt the adhesive |
A week isn't a real long cure time for a rattle can paint job. I've got a frame that I painted 3 weeks ago still waiting for a final wax and build in my shop.
Did you strip off all of the old paint before you started? |
Yes, i sand blasted then palm sanded the frame (it is steel). Looking back at my calendar, it definately cured for longer than a week before I put it together (more like a month!), with primer, paint, and clear coat.
What wax are you using? Is it more for shine or pro protection? How are you applying it? I ran to lowes and picked up a clear enamal and airbrushed it on with sanding in between and the frame is sitting waiting around. |
Thanks for the information!
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