Take pics if you can :thumb:

Have a small, adjustable wrench* also to to get the lockrings off the cones. Cone-wrench on flats of cones, adj. wrench on lockring. And I've never bothered to purchase a grease-gun or whatever. I just squeeze the grease from the tube, or gouge-up a finger of grease and work it in.

* Or a box-end if you have a set. Every mechanic should invest in a set of decent wrenches - Craftsman is good.

L - don't forget a box of nitrile gloves and a box of q-tips.

Last time I redid a hub, I found that I needed TWO 15mm narrow wrenches at the same time. Be sure that any cones that need to be locked that you count it apart from the one you'll need for the locknut as well.

yup. two 13s, two 15s, and two 17s come in handy. Sometimes you can tweak final adjustments by tightening the outside locknuts a 1/32nd of a turn, trusting that locked down cones will move with the locknuts as a unit. same goes for loosening with a wrench on each cone. saves time loosening and relocking for final adjustment.

the 17s can be box wrenches

I noted another poster states you don't need to replace the ball-bearings. I strongly disagree - while you don't have to, it is correct and proper to do so. BB's that have been under load will slowly deform and magnify any variations in the surface of the cups & cones. So this back & forth exchange of minor imperfections - no surface is exactly flat or round - will cause early wear and tear. Theoretically a hub can last just about forever. And grade 25 balls are cheap and plentiful.

Be nice to your hubs - splurge a little on this minor indulgence.

+1 This is another very cheap and extremely useful purchase. You won't regret it.