How much to repack hubs?
03-03-09, 07:55 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fife Scotland
Posts: 2,053
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3291 Post(s)
Liked 827 Times
in
583 Posts
My shop is MY shop... I only do repairs and service and don't have much in the way of overhead.
This is what I have been charging for quite some time and when I look at the time it takes and the parts cost I feel that is fair to me and to the customer.
Most shops have a $50.00 - $60.00 / hr shop rate which I think would be fair if they actually paid their mechanics a living wage.
I also volunteer at our bike co-op and the other afternoon a fellow brought in a front wheel that was not running very smoothly... I repacked and replaced the caged bearings with loose balls and charged him $5.00 for what was all of 15 minutes work.
The bearings at the co-op are also grade 25 and we use Park grease so the $5.00 more than covers the parts cost... my time here is donated but most folks are pretty generous and often donate a near market price to the co-op.
This is what I have been charging for quite some time and when I look at the time it takes and the parts cost I feel that is fair to me and to the customer.
Most shops have a $50.00 - $60.00 / hr shop rate which I think would be fair if they actually paid their mechanics a living wage.
I also volunteer at our bike co-op and the other afternoon a fellow brought in a front wheel that was not running very smoothly... I repacked and replaced the caged bearings with loose balls and charged him $5.00 for what was all of 15 minutes work.
The bearings at the co-op are also grade 25 and we use Park grease so the $5.00 more than covers the parts cost... my time here is donated but most folks are pretty generous and often donate a near market price to the co-op.
Like you I work at a Bike Co-op and I too find the public very generous. You may quote a price for a re-conditioned bike and they will say it's too low and give more.
I have to say I do get weary of working on low-end bikes all day but mostly I get weary from being on my feet all day in the workshop as I'm getting on in years.
03-03-09, 01:52 PM
#28
Advisor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Bike shops in my area charge $20 for the front and $25 for the rear to clean and regrease. You don't need new bearings, they last forever. I would only use synthetic grease, doesn't get thick in cold weather, rolls easier, and doesn't break down in water. The hardest part is learning to set the right tightness of the bearings.
03-03-09, 02:10 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I am determined to start overhauling my hubs myself. I have Dura-Ace and Ultegra hubs. I intend to invest in some hub overhaul tools, but I am stymied as to what are needed.
I assume I need the following:
a) One 17mm Open Wrench
b) One 13mm Cone Wrench (Front Hub)
c) One 15mm Cone Wrench (Rear Hub)
d) A Finish Line Grease Gun and Synthetic Grease
e) 3/16" Bearings
f) 1/4" Bearings (Ultegra Rear Hub)
Could you please comment on whether all tools and supplies needed are covered?
Thanks for all responses.
I assume I need the following:
a) One 17mm Open Wrench
b) One 13mm Cone Wrench (Front Hub)
c) One 15mm Cone Wrench (Rear Hub)
d) A Finish Line Grease Gun and Synthetic Grease
e) 3/16" Bearings
f) 1/4" Bearings (Ultegra Rear Hub)
Could you please comment on whether all tools and supplies needed are covered?
Thanks for all responses.
03-03-09, 05:09 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Looks like you're all set as long as you have some rags and degreaser hanging around. A grease gun is nice but not totally essential. Smearing the grease in the hub with your fingers works fine. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the process. Have fun!
03-03-09, 09:59 PM
#31
:\ ping of death
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: GA
Posts: 1,382
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I am determined to start overhauling my hubs myself. I have Dura-Ace and Ultegra hubs. I intend to invest in some hub overhaul tools, but I am stymied as to what are needed.
I assume I need the following:
a) One 17mm Open Wrench
b) One 13mm Cone Wrench (Front Hub)
c) One 15mm Cone Wrench (Rear Hub)
d) A Finish Line Grease Gun and Synthetic Grease
e) 3/16" Bearings
f) 1/4" Bearings (Ultegra Rear Hub)
Could you please comment on whether all tools and supplies needed are covered?
Thanks for all responses.
I assume I need the following:
a) One 17mm Open Wrench
b) One 13mm Cone Wrench (Front Hub)
c) One 15mm Cone Wrench (Rear Hub)
d) A Finish Line Grease Gun and Synthetic Grease
e) 3/16" Bearings
f) 1/4" Bearings (Ultegra Rear Hub)
Could you please comment on whether all tools and supplies needed are covered?
Thanks for all responses.
03-03-09, 10:23 PM
#32
Great State of Varmint
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dante's Third Ring
Posts: 7,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times
in
15 Posts
Have a small, adjustable wrench* also to to get the lockrings off the cones. Cone-wrench on flats of cones, adj. wrench on lockring. And I've never bothered to purchase a grease-gun or whatever. I just squeeze the grease from the tube, or gouge-up a finger of grease and work it in.
* Or a box-end if you have a set. Every mechanic should invest in a set of decent wrenches - Craftsman is good.
* Or a box-end if you have a set. Every mechanic should invest in a set of decent wrenches - Craftsman is good.
03-04-09, 02:56 PM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southwest MO
Posts: 782
Bikes: (2) 1994 Cannondale R900, red, Silver Trek hybrid
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Last time I redid a hub, I found that I needed TWO 15mm narrow wrenches at the same time. Be sure that any cones that need to be locked that you count it apart from the one you'll need for the locknut as well.
03-04-09, 03:42 PM
#35
Senior Member
the 17s can be box wrenches
03-04-09, 03:50 PM
#36
Great State of Varmint
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dante's Third Ring
Posts: 7,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times
in
15 Posts
I noted another poster states you don't need to replace the ball-bearings. I strongly disagree - while you don't have to, it is correct and proper to do so. BB's that have been under load will slowly deform and magnify any variations in the surface of the cups & cones. So this back & forth exchange of minor imperfections - no surface is exactly flat or round - will cause early wear and tear. Theoretically a hub can last just about forever. And grade 25 balls are cheap and plentiful.
Be nice to your hubs - splurge a little on this minor indulgence.
Be nice to your hubs - splurge a little on this minor indulgence.
03-04-09, 04:53 PM
#37
Senior Member
