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Shimano RD-6600 Rear derailleur - short cage, long cage, which do I have?

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Shimano RD-6600 Rear derailleur - short cage, long cage, which do I have?

Old 03-14-09, 07:52 AM
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Shimano RD-6600 Rear derailleur - short cage, long cage, which do I have?

Newbie here.

Just my second season back into riding after about 12 years off and I'm learning about how much the bikes have changed since I last rode and worked on them. I did some searching on here and couldn't find what I was after.

As a result of the situation in the pics below, I have to find a replacement Ultegra derailleur. I have RD-6600 stamped on my derailleur now, but when I search for the replacement online, I see there are different versions - RD-6600-SS, RD-6600-GS, short cage, and long cage, etc.

I have an R2000 18 spd.

Can someone tell me what I need?

Thanks.
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Old 03-14-09, 08:09 AM
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You need a short cage (RD-6600-SS) rear derailler. You also definitely need to properly set up your derailler limit screws this time (or add a spoke protector) and/or straighten your derailler hanger.
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Old 03-14-09, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Spooled-up View Post
Newbie here.

Just my second season back into riding after about 12 years off and I'm learning about how much the bikes have changed since I last rode and worked on them. I did some searching on here and couldn't find what I was after.

As a result of the situation in the pics below, I have to find a replacement Ultegra derailleur. I have RD-6600 stamped on my derailleur now, but when I search for the replacement online, I see there are different versions - RD-6600-SS, RD-6600-GS, short cage, and long cage, etc.

I have an R2000 18 spd.

Can someone tell me what I need?

Thanks.
The long cage gives you the most compatibility - you can run bigger cassettes (as in gear range). There's no reason NOT to get this, unless you never plan on switching out of your current cassette.
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Old 03-14-09, 08:27 AM
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Operator makes a good point. You currently have a short cage but a long cage will work perfectly fine (plus leave you with more gearing options) in it's place.
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Old 03-14-09, 08:27 AM
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I'm not sure what caused the carnage, but it happened when I shifted back down to the small chainring on the front and the chain jumped off and went to the bottom bracket. I had the bike tuned up after the new velocity wheel was installed at the end of last season. It shifted fine up until this point, but like you said, there was obviously something wrong.

Speaking of the Velocity wheel, it has one broken spoke as a result of this and now the wheel isn't true of course. It has about 1/8" to 3/16" of runout. Can this be trued again, or do I need a new wheel as well?
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Old 03-14-09, 08:31 AM
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I'll definitely go with the long cage then.

Is there a significant difference in Ultegra and Dura-Ace? I'm not a weight freak or anything, I'm just looking for the most reliable and longest lasting parts.

What would the part number be for the long cage? RD-6600-GS?
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Old 03-14-09, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Spooled-up View Post
Speaking of the Velocity wheel, it has one broken spoke as a result of this and now the wheel isn't true of course. It has about 1/8" to 3/16" of runout. Can this be trued again, or do I need a new wheel as well?
New spoke and trued. Easy job.
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Old 03-14-09, 08:33 AM
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Just replace the broken spoke the wheel will likely very easily be brought back into true.

I've never heard of a derailler being drawn into the spokes after dropping the chain on the front. I guess it's possible that the resulting slack chain could have caught in the spokes and brought the derailler with it.

Is it safe to assume that you attempted to shift into the small chainring while under power climbing a hill?
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Old 03-14-09, 08:40 AM
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I was actually going down hill when the shift was made. I was shifting into a climbing gear when it all happened. My guess is that the slack in the chain maybe created a wave that didn't feed into the rear derailleur and jammed it and the wheel sucked it up into the spokes. The derailleur side of the skewer was ripped out of the frame and it broke off half of the derailleur hanger.

I'm a little worried that it bent the frame at the derailleur hanger and wheel mount. I'll have to check it somehow. Is there a measurement I can make to check this, or is it an "eyeball it" kind of thing?
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Old 03-14-09, 09:14 AM
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There's a tool to align the new hanger you're going to need and a tool to check rear the dropout alignment. Ask your shop to do both.
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Old 03-14-09, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Spooled-up View Post
I was shifting into a climbing gear when it all happened.
Similar thing happened to me once. I was on a flat section shifting to the small ring in preparation for a climb. I don't think I dropped the chain on the shift but I may have. Anyway, somehow the bottom side of the chain got in between the spokes and the freewheel and wrapped the rear derailer around similar to your pics. The derailer hanger bent in at about a 45 degree angle but my bike is steel and I was able to bend it back on the road and continue (which is a good thing since I was on a tour about 300 miles from home).
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Old 03-14-09, 10:46 AM
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Derailleur hanger is bent if its replaceable do it if not get it straightened also.
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Old 03-14-09, 08:42 PM
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Is the long cage part number RD-6600-GS?

Thanks for all the input guys. I appreciate it. A lot cheaper than just dropping it off at the LBS and having them do everything.
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Old 03-14-09, 09:16 PM
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Something to check after you get it back together make sure the free hub is spinning free.
Keeping the bike upright spin the wheel and see if you get any chain sag on the top side if you do remove the wheel and lube up that hub or it will happen again.
When riding take a look when coasting and check for slack on the upper side of the chain.
This is one cause of sucking a chain.
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Old 03-15-09, 06:55 AM
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Thanks JT. I'll do that.
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Old 03-15-09, 09:32 AM
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Your problem was shifting into a climbing gear while going downhill. Always wait until you lose your momentum on the uphill to downshift. The cycling gods punished you for that by throwing your rear derailleur into the spokes.

Anyway, I believe 6600-GS is the correct part number.

Also, if it was enough to break a spoke, you might want to look at all the other spokes on that side of the wheel. It could have nicked or scored a number of others, which can lead to early spoke failure down the road. I would replace any spokes that look like they were damaged in any way.
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Old 03-15-09, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by operator View Post
The long cage gives you the most compatibility - you can run bigger cassettes (as in gear range). There's no reason NOT to get this, unless you never plan on switching out of your current cassette.
Actually a long cage road derailleur does not allow for a larger cassette than a short cage. The 6600 SS and 6600 GS have the same small and large cog limits. The difference is that the long cage derailleur is capable of more chain wrap for a greater overall difference in gearing, including the crankset. The long cage would be needed if the crankset is changed to a triple or possibly a compact double.
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Old 03-15-09, 03:47 PM
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The long cage is only necessary when you have a greater than 16t difference in chainrings up front. So if you never plan on getting a triple then the short cage is the way to go.
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Old 03-15-09, 03:54 PM
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I actually may consider a triple someday. I pull a trailer with my boy in it sometimes. I could sometimes use lower gears on some of the steeper hills.
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