Can you figure out what's wrong w/my Bontrager Race GXP (Video & pictures)
#2
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Used to be that with square taper the non-drive arm got fried often, the axle bolt/nut threading should have been reversed on this side but it never was so it would loosen up enough with pedaling that the arm would strip. I don't know that this happens with splined BBs. It looks to me that maybe the BB bolt might be stripped or something. This could cause the lateral play but it is very possible that the arm is toast. Do you have any rotational play? If so then yes it is toast for sure
As far as the plastic thingy is concerned, these can be replaced, but it is just a sleeve to keep gunk from inside the downtube from getting to the axle. Provided you don't remove your seatpost often this can be tossed without adverse effect and doesn't really need replacing. Just be sure that the axle is clean before reinstalling it, and leave your setpost alone and you are good to go.
Dont know a whole lot about splined BBs/Cranks, but I hope this info helps.
As far as the plastic thingy is concerned, these can be replaced, but it is just a sleeve to keep gunk from inside the downtube from getting to the axle. Provided you don't remove your seatpost often this can be tossed without adverse effect and doesn't really need replacing. Just be sure that the axle is clean before reinstalling it, and leave your setpost alone and you are good to go.
Dont know a whole lot about splined BBs/Cranks, but I hope this info helps.
#3
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check the threads on the inside of the spindle. if those are intact, your cranks/bb might be salvageable (if there's no rotational play as mentioned above); if they're stripped, then your crankset is done as the drive side is pressed onto the spindle.
the plastic/rubber sleeve probably broke as a result of your loose crank arm, and can probably be replaced by your lbs (as can the crank bolt).
the plastic/rubber sleeve probably broke as a result of your loose crank arm, and can probably be replaced by your lbs (as can the crank bolt).