21st century tool needed for 21st century rear hub?
03-29-09, 03:36 AM
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21st century tool needed for 21st century rear hub?
OK, so I'm overhauling my first 21st century hub, a rear Shimano FH-M525 that I bought used. I loosened the locknut on the NDS, but in the process of unscrewing that and the NDS cone, I found that the DS locknut was loose as well. Now that I've got the axle out (see photo), I'd like to tighten the DS cone/locknut in place after I clean everything, but I'm not sure how to do it.
The problem: the flats on the cone are partially overlapped by the rim of the dust cap when the locknut is tightened. The accessible flat thickness is then only about half(!) the thickness of my cone wrenches (el cheapo Sette brand). Do I need to buy some super-thin 21st century cone wrench to tighten the DS locknut here, or is there some trick I don't know?
The problem: the flats on the cone are partially overlapped by the rim of the dust cap when the locknut is tightened. The accessible flat thickness is then only about half(!) the thickness of my cone wrenches (el cheapo Sette brand). Do I need to buy some super-thin 21st century cone wrench to tighten the DS locknut here, or is there some trick I don't know?
03-29-09, 04:39 AM
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might be missing a spacer.
my nashbar cone wrenches are exactly 2mm thick and they did the job fine on the drive side.
my nashbar cone wrenches are exactly 2mm thick and they did the job fine on the drive side.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
03-29-09, 04:54 AM
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Derailleur!!!! Hell, I just meet her.
Derailleur!!!! Hell, I just meet her.
03-29-09, 04:56 AM
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AEO - according to the Shimano exploded diagram (https://www.paul-lange.de/produkte/sh...FH/FH-M525.pdf), I've got all the pieces. Was it a FH-M525 model hub that you had?
03-29-09, 05:00 AM
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no, it was a different model entirely, but they're all the same design on the inside.
you sure you're using a cone wrench and not a pedal wrench by accident?
you sure you're using a cone wrench and not a pedal wrench by accident?
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
03-29-09, 05:26 AM
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Use some pliers or vise-grips to hold the cone. You just want to get things tight, you aren't going to be making adjustments on the drive side.
03-29-09, 05:47 AM
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AEO - it's just that this model has the dust cap directly overhanging the cone flats, which I haven't run into on the other ('90s era) Shimano hubs that I've worked on. My worry is bending/damaging the soft metal dust cap with the cone wrench.
Looking at it again, it might be that there's barely enough room for my cone wrench once I clean off the old grease and grime. I'll report back once I've tried that, as it seems pretty clear from your comments that there is no "secret tool" that I'm missing.
dp - thanks for your suggestions -- I'll go that route if the cone wrench won't fit in the cleaned assembly.
Looking at it again, it might be that there's barely enough room for my cone wrench once I clean off the old grease and grime. I'll report back once I've tried that, as it seems pretty clear from your comments that there is no "secret tool" that I'm missing.
dp - thanks for your suggestions -- I'll go that route if the cone wrench won't fit in the cleaned assembly.
03-29-09, 06:08 AM
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My two bobs worth. The dust cap is out of place and once you slide it onto the cone nut as far as it will go the problem will be solved. Thats how dust caps that are friction fitted to the cone nut work. Just push it further on. Now I haven't worked on that hub specifically and I'm not sure what the gasket is doing there. It may or may not be in the correct place.
Anthony
Anthony
03-29-09, 06:13 AM
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). The locknut and cone that you have pulled apart is really designed to stay together. You lock that end of the axle together first and the other end is the adjustable end.Anthony
03-29-09, 08:08 AM
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All of the Shimano dust caps I've dealt with are a friction fit on the axle assembly or in the hub shell. You can carefully drive it off to get the clearance you need, adjust and lock the cone and locknut together, then reinstall the dust cap. If you are careful, you won't bend ot distort it.
03-29-09, 04:06 PM
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AG - yes, they are supposed to be together; as I mentioned above, I bought this used and the lock nut was already loosened, so I want to lock that end again.
HR - that's been my past experience as well. Unfortunately, on this one, the hole in the dustcap (#5 in the Shimano PDF) is big enough for the axle, but smaller than the diameter of the spacers/washers on either side of it (#4 and #7), so it can't be moved along the axle to give more clearance for the cone wrench on the cone flat.
Thanks again for your comments.
HR - that's been my past experience as well. Unfortunately, on this one, the hole in the dustcap (#5 in the Shimano PDF) is big enough for the axle, but smaller than the diameter of the spacers/washers on either side of it (#4 and #7), so it can't be moved along the axle to give more clearance for the cone wrench on the cone flat.
Thanks again for your comments.
03-29-09, 04:32 PM
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Here's a possible fix. With the axle, cones and locknuts free from the hub lock the non-drive side cones/locknuts together. Position the drive side cone where it needs to be and tighten the locknut against it using the non-drive side locknut. Then unlock the non-drive side cone/locknut using only the non-drive side cone/locknut and it should be good to go.
Anthony
Anthony
