Replace pitted hub cones?
 

I have a 1996 (I think) Trek 750 Multitrack that I purchased for $100 via craigslist last year. The previous owner swapped the flat handlebars for drops, and since it has a nice chromoly frame and all the brazeons to attach front and rear racks, I've been using it as a commuting/touring bike. I haven't done much touring, but I would like to do more, and I see no reason why this bike can't do it. I've been putting some money into it (racks/fenders/new stem/new cables/new chain/Brooks b17) which some might think it pointless on such a cheap bike, but I got such a great deal on it that I don't see any harm. If I eventually want to upgrade I can swap a lot of the parts/accessories.

I recently tried servicing the wheel bearings for the first time, and 3 out of the 4 cones are lightly worn/pitted. Cups are fine. The bike rode fine beforehand, and I didn't notice any grinding or other problems. An LBS was unable to order me new cones, and I'm not sure what my options are now. Is it worth going crazy hunting down new cones for an old/cheap hub? The shop was going to dig through an old parts bin to see if they have something that fits, but it seems improbable. I feel like I have a few options:

1) Reassemble the hub with old cones but new bearings/grease and keep riding
2) Go nuts looking for replacement cones
3) Buy a new wheelset

Anyone have any opinions?

Depends on how much you like it / how much of a masochist you are.

My assumptions: the wheels are nothing special to begin with.

What I would do:

a. Repack and ride

b. Find a replacement set of cones from the parts bin, toss 'em on, repack, and ride.

In all probability, if you're anal enough to pull apart fully functioning hubs on a mid-range bike, then you'll repack often enough that these mediocre wheels will outlast you. I've never been convinced that it's worth matching cones to hubs unless you actually care a whole lot about the hubs. Which would not be reasonable on this pair of hubs.

Worst case scenario: 20 years from now, when the hubs get bad enough that you decide to get drastic, you will have saved up enough for a nice Trek 520 or the 20-years-from-now equivalent.

What tellyho said.........

I am surprised that your LBS cannot find cones. Find another shop. THese items are in 2 of the catalogs we use.

Have you tried www.Loosescrews.com?

This company is very likely to have the cones you need:
http://wheelsmfg.com/content/view/470/32/

I'd repack them with new bearings and see how they feel. I had an old bb apart last night, and the cups didn't look great (i.e. all shiny and new). After new bearings and grease the cranks were significantly smoother. I'm happy with it.

Ive got a big box of cones from lots of wheels Ive stripped down
cones come in a few diameters, heights, spindle diameter and bearing curve

Ive had trouble with a few cones Ive wanted to replace.

For instance I have a 1979 Dawes Galaxy that has nice large flange Maillard hubs. I looked through the box of cones. The front axle is a mid size. But has small diameter cones. I ripped an axle from a Maillard small flange wheel that is small diameter solid axle. So the cones wont fit on the hollow axle.

try grinding it
 

I recently had a lightly pitted cone I couldn't find a replacement for. My LBS suggested I might try to file the pitting out. I tightened the cone down on an appropriately sized bolt and then chucked the bolt into a drill press. About a half hour with a bit of dowel and some wet/dry sandpaper and it was perfect.

Never heard of that tecnique mthomas. How do you get the sandpaper from putting indivdtual grains all around the cone? I assume you can use a fine grade, but this would take a long time. Also, what would you put behind the paper to push it against the cone?

My LBS got new cones for my 750 multi-track when I had the wheels serviced recently. They were a size they didn't have in stock so they ordered them. If you really like the bike, you might think about new (better) wheels. The 750's are nice bikes when fixed up, and new wheels would make a big difference. The BF guys know which wheels are good and reasonably priced. bk

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I actually found both OEM cones at bikesonline.com by googling for the Shimano part number. I guess maybe my shop was just a little limited in what they could order? Either way, those links helped, so thank you. I thought it would be a lot harder to find replacement cones.

Eventually I would like to upgrade the wheels, but first I need to do some budgeting and research, and I'd like to see how the stock wheels hold up under loaded touring. Meanwhile 3 new cones cost $15, so no big deal.

The 750 is a great bike, especially for the $100 I paid for it.

I use a Dremel tool with a fine stone to smooth out a pitted cone.

Let the pitted cone spin in a cordless drill at low speed (screw it firmly on an axle and put that in the cordless drill). Then gently push the Dremel stone spinning at max speed against the cone's race. Do not apply any force, let the stone do the job. It may take about 30 revolutions of the cone before the result is flawless. Take your time.

Finish the grinded cone's surface with some fine sandpaper wrapped around a screw driver's shaft.

The result is nearly perfect cone's surface.

Some people may object to this procedure. They may claim the cone will lose it's hardness. I can say I have ridden many thousands of miles on 'overhauled' cones, without any problem.

PS: Cones and cups will get pitted due to of a lack of maintenance. Water infiltration and corrosion is the main reason why cones get damaged. Bearings that are adjusted correctly and that are repacked regularly with plenty of grease should never get pitted, no matter the mileage.

I just wrapped the fine wet/dry sandpaper around a short piece of wooden dowel. I put a bit of cutting fluid on the sandpaper, but I'm sure it would work pretty well without. You can twirl the dowel, move it back and forth to use every bit of the sandpaper surface. You can tilt the dowel up and down to get a better match between the dowel's radius and the radius of the cone surface.

It only took about a half hour, but as I mentioned the cone was lightly pitted. All that being said, I'm going to try Berre's technique with a Dremel next time I have to do this.

Want a polished cup/cone? Clean it out thoroughly. Now pack it with Simichrome metal-polish or equivalent and ball-bearings. Wrench the cones down a bit tight. Spin the wheel in a jig or in the forks for 10 minutes. Clean thoroughly and re-pack with fresh bb's and your favorite grease.