SPD Clipless and Toe Numbing
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SPD Clipless and Toe Numbing
I just installed an older set of Shimano SPD mountain bike pedals on my road bike. They are the standard double sided ones. I picked up a pair of SPD shoes which seem to fit quite well. WOW, what a huge difference in performance, however, after a 20+ mile ride my big toes are numb for about 15 minutes or so.
I've only done about 50 miles so far, is the numbing due to the extra stiffness? Is this normal, and the shoes just need to be broken in? One of the guys at my LBS said that, it takes a week or so to get used to clipless since you are using different movements/muscles, than when using gym shoes or sandals which flex at the pedal).
I definitely don't want to go back to regular pedals, these things are amazing, talk about being at one with your bike. I was originally a little worried about clipless riding on the busy streets of Chicago, but I can get out of these 10x faster than my old cage style clipped pedals.
I've only done about 50 miles so far, is the numbing due to the extra stiffness? Is this normal, and the shoes just need to be broken in? One of the guys at my LBS said that, it takes a week or so to get used to clipless since you are using different movements/muscles, than when using gym shoes or sandals which flex at the pedal).
I definitely don't want to go back to regular pedals, these things are amazing, talk about being at one with your bike. I was originally a little worried about clipless riding on the busy streets of Chicago, but I can get out of these 10x faster than my old cage style clipped pedals.
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Clipless bike shoes are quite stiff and unforgiving. Feet tend to swell with blood during exercise. You might want to try just loosening off the straps/laces a bit or trying some sport gel insoles. Shoes need time to break-in a bit too.
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Also make sure that the cleats are correctly positioned on the shoes and that the shoes are not a bit too small.
Wear the shoes off of the bike for some walking to check fit with your full weight on your feet and see if they feel a bit too snug.
Wear the shoes off of the bike for some walking to check fit with your full weight on your feet and see if they feel a bit too snug.
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Think about different socks. I got this reminder yesterday when I went for a ride with heavier socks on than normal. I got numb toes. I helped it by loosening my shoes. I always try to remember to were thin socks when riding.
Later,
HB
Later,
HB
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I should go get lighter socks then . . . mine are pretty thick
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I used the same SPD pedals you have and also got numbness in my toes. I ended up adjusting the cleats pretty far down on the shoes (toward the heel) and that solved my problem.
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I have recently got some SPD SL pedals, and although I have the tension set on as low as possible, I am having real problems with the left pedal. Has anyone got any ideas on how I can make it "looser" or easier to get my shoe in and out??
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Long shot, but could it be related to something like this . . . https://www.chainreaction.com/recallspdsl.htm
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Thanks, the cleats I have are the correct ones by the look of it. Think the problem may be with the pedal?
Has anyone else had similar problems with SPD SL pedals?
Has anyone else had similar problems with SPD SL pedals?
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Before mounting them to my tourer, I took them apart (and by this I mean completely removed the adjustment bolts and the metal bottom part that sits under the cleat), and soaked them in degreaser, and then pulled out the toothbrush to get in further. They were extremely dirty inside, and jammed with sand and crud. Before cleaning, no matter how much tension I released, I couldn't get them to budge. After, they moved smoothly and clipped in really well.
If they aren't dirty inside, it could be a a part causing the issue. Do they clip in but not out or something more like you struggle to get them clipped in, but they pop out easily? It could be bad springs, or maybe a broken spring, there really isn't that many parts that could have issues. Basically the springs (2), the adjustment plate (did this come off during adjustment?), adjustment screw, and the axle that goes through the two springs.
I would be more inclined to thing there may be an issue with the cleat itself, maybe try a new cleat before messing with the pedals.
Taking mine apart to make sure everything was clean and working was annoying, and somewhat time consuming.
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I'm about to take the plunge to clipless myself. A pair of used Ascent SPD's and used Specialized Mtb shoes, very old style.
Specialized has a whole line of Body Geometry (BG) shoes to fit and ergonomics. They make these shoes that have a 1.5mm tilt to mimick the natural human stance.
Specialized has a whole line of Body Geometry (BG) shoes to fit and ergonomics. They make these shoes that have a 1.5mm tilt to mimick the natural human stance.
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The second cause is the saddle. Some people have trouble with the saddle pressing into the inner part of their thigh and cutting off circulation.
In the spring months, when it's still a bit chilly, the cold, coupled to tight shoe straps and a mismatched saddle can render your feet numb from the ankle down.
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You might be pedaling on your toes too much. Try moving the cleats back on the shoe a little. You might have to lower your saddle a little as well.
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I asked my doctor about this once because I had numbing and it felt like the ball of my foot was bruised. When i described my pedals (Eggbeaters) and shoe combo his explanation was that there is a high concentration of pressure in one spot on your foot and it can cut off some blood due to that and the fact that the shoes could be tightened too much. Also you are always driving your toes into the bottom of the shoes.
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I found that I was tying my shoes too tightly and that one cleat wasn't in the right place for that foot. Thin socks and a pocket hex wrench to adjust the cleat until I got it right solved the problem.
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One other thing to consider was alluded to by a previous poster: the support level in your shoes. While bike shoes are quite stiff, they often aren't a great match for your feet in terms of support.
I used to get hot spots and numbness in my feet, both with SPD and SPD-SL setups. Eventually I found that putting in a good footbed in my shoe (rather than the flimsy stock footbeds that come with most shoes) made things far better: no hot spots, no numbness, no perceived need to climp down my shoes to get a proper fit (I have super-narrow forefeet and relatively wide heels).
I went with Superfeet Orange insoles (a trim-to-fit model), and they worked wonders. Specialized Body Geometry insoles are also quite good, as are the custom-molded shoes from Shimano. But the Superfeet are an affordable option if you find that adjustment of cleat positioning isn't cutting it.
Now, regarding the tough exit on the SPD-SL: make sure that the cleats are securely mounted to the shoes. If they can slide, even a tiny bit, they'll give a sensation of being unable to release (because the cleat is shifting on the shoe, rather than within the pedal). This happened to me once, and it drove me nuts. Once the cleat was properly tightened, the release was far more predictable.
The only other time that release could be more difficult is when the cleats are worn out, but I don't think that is your issue at this point.
I used to get hot spots and numbness in my feet, both with SPD and SPD-SL setups. Eventually I found that putting in a good footbed in my shoe (rather than the flimsy stock footbeds that come with most shoes) made things far better: no hot spots, no numbness, no perceived need to climp down my shoes to get a proper fit (I have super-narrow forefeet and relatively wide heels).
I went with Superfeet Orange insoles (a trim-to-fit model), and they worked wonders. Specialized Body Geometry insoles are also quite good, as are the custom-molded shoes from Shimano. But the Superfeet are an affordable option if you find that adjustment of cleat positioning isn't cutting it.
Now, regarding the tough exit on the SPD-SL: make sure that the cleats are securely mounted to the shoes. If they can slide, even a tiny bit, they'll give a sensation of being unable to release (because the cleat is shifting on the shoe, rather than within the pedal). This happened to me once, and it drove me nuts. Once the cleat was properly tightened, the release was far more predictable.
The only other time that release could be more difficult is when the cleats are worn out, but I don't think that is your issue at this point.
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Wow. I've been having excruciating foot numbness. I changed my pedals and shoes and haven't solved the problem. Now this thread gives me two excellent suggestions: moving the cleats back, and those insoles. Thank you!
As it is, I can't ride much more than 20 or 30 miles at a time without a lot of pain. Here's hoping that changes!
As it is, I can't ride much more than 20 or 30 miles at a time without a lot of pain. Here's hoping that changes!
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Big point being made here. The sole of the bike shoe should be *extremely* stiff. If changing your pedals didn't make much difference, try changing your shoes.
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#20
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Wow. I've been having excruciating foot numbness. I changed my pedals and shoes and haven't solved the problem. Now this thread gives me two excellent suggestions: moving the cleats back, and those insoles. Thank you!
As it is, I can't ride much more than 20 or 30 miles at a time without a lot of pain. Here's hoping that changes!
As it is, I can't ride much more than 20 or 30 miles at a time without a lot of pain. Here's hoping that changes!
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Thank you for the help, moved the cleats back (more towards front-middle of my foot now), huge difference . . . minimal numbness (if any at all) changed to lighter socks, and no more numbness period.
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I decided on having the cleat near the front, to try to minimize tire rubbing, but still doesn't help, but only at low turning speeds.
I don't have numbing, but I am getting soreness, similar to when I walk for hours and hours. I do believe, however, that it will take some getting use to.
So right now I have it forward, with feet-out and toe-in. Should it be toe-in, centered, toe-out or my preference?
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Like I said before, I've just taken the clipless plunge myself, and yeah, big difference.
I decided on having the cleat near the front, to try to minimize tire rubbing, but still doesn't help, but only at low turning speeds.
I don't have numbing, but I am getting soreness, similar to when I walk for hours and hours. I do believe, however, that it will take some getting use to.
So right now I have it forward, with feet-out and toe-in. Should it be toe-in, centered, toe-out or my preference?
I decided on having the cleat near the front, to try to minimize tire rubbing, but still doesn't help, but only at low turning speeds.
I don't have numbing, but I am getting soreness, similar to when I walk for hours and hours. I do believe, however, that it will take some getting use to.
So right now I have it forward, with feet-out and toe-in. Should it be toe-in, centered, toe-out or my preference?
Hmmmmm . . . is your shoe rubbing against the tire? My bike seems to have plenty of clearance that way.
However, I started with the cleat in the most forward, center position on the shoe. That is where I was getting the numbing. Then I moved the cleats to the most forward, inner most position on the shoe (so that my shoes were farther out from the cranks). And then I moved them to the ball of my feet (more middle of the shoe, but left them in the inner most position). I like the slightly wider stance. Since the shoes are so stiff, I'm not sure, but I think it all comes down to preference.
At first I thought I would get the most power in the pedal if the cleats were in front (but I was coming from clip style pedals). The more I think about it, if there is virtually no flex in the shoes, it shouldn't matter the exact point of contact, since all the power would go into the stroke.
If the pedals are adjusted correctly (I like mine pretty tight), you should be allowed to adjust about approx 15 degrees out without unclipping from the pedal. So you can still move around somewhat.
Also, I did have to lower my seat height slightly, since I found I was stretching a bit more than I was used to street shoes vs bike shoes.
I don't get soreness, however, it could be like when I first start rollerblading/ice skating for the appropriate season. It just hurts for 10 or so outings and then my foot adjusts, wait a few weeks, and I have to readjust.
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I went to my local bike shop on Saturday. I mentioned this problem to the manager there, who is very knowledgeable. As I already knew, he told me the conventional wisdom has been to position the ball of the foot directly over the pedal spindle, however, people have been deviating from this recently and getting excellent results. He concurred with the information in this thread, that repositioning could help, as could the insoles that provide support. I'm excited to try, though I haven't done anything yet.
He also said that exercises that both strengthen and stretch the hamstrings can help a lot.
He also said that exercises that both strengthen and stretch the hamstrings can help a lot.
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