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SCREAMING front brake on my tandem

Old 06-23-09, 11:51 AM
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Equinox
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SCREAMING front brake on my tandem

The pad seems good and properly adjusted. The rim is clean. The brakes are Avid Shorty 6 and are an older version from what they have on their website. There is some play in the right brake body where it fastens to the boss. I think this is what is creating the noise. Possible, and what do I do?
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Old 06-23-09, 01:07 PM
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Are the brake pads toed in? The front edge of the pads should hit the rim before the rear edge. In other words, they should not be parallel to the rim.
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Old 06-23-09, 01:14 PM
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Yes
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Old 06-23-09, 03:43 PM
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i have the same prob but shorty 4s, the bushing/pivot also has play in it. the rear is fine even without toed in pads.
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Old 06-23-09, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
i have the same prob but shorty 4s, the bushing/pivot also has play in it. the rear is fine even without toed in pads.
Same here.
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Old 06-23-09, 08:03 PM
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Install a bridge between the brake posts. This will stiffen the assembly so the natual vibration frequency is beyond the human hearing range. It may give the dogs a scare when you use the brakes.
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Old 06-23-09, 08:20 PM
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Where do I get this bridge of which you speak?
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Old 06-23-09, 10:53 PM
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Avid shorty cantis as front brakes drove me nuts. I tried everything that my patience would allow to get those things to shut up. Nothing worked for long, and I was ready to give up on canti brakes. Then I spent $25 and bought Tektro CR720 wide profile canti brakes. These are wonderful, very powerful, not a squeak or vibration at all. No hassle about perfect toe in. I rarely clean off the rims. The Tektro CR720 will put you out of your misery. BTW, I have Avid shorty 6 on the rear of one of my bikes, and get no squeaks from them.
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Old 06-24-09, 05:07 AM
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A brake booster or bridge looks like this:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-T...late-10362.htm

I have one each on the front v-brakes of both my bikes. Braking on the Velocity Dyad non-machined rim used to be a loud squeal, but not anymore. The other benefit is that the brake pads can be left parallel to the rim for even brake pad wear.
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Old 06-24-09, 05:36 AM
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I too have Avid shorty 4's and my front brakes scream all the time...off to the shop today to get that fixed! The only upside, is that I don't have to say "on your left" I just tap the front brakes and it's like a high-pitch air horn...yikes!!
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Old 06-24-09, 09:14 AM
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I just built a bike and used super-cheap Shimano cantilevers. I think they were $10 each. They shrieked until I toed them in. They stop extremely well, even with the stock pads. This is my first road bike with cantilevers. I love cantilever brakes!
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Old 06-24-09, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Equinox View Post
The pad seems good and properly adjusted. The rim is clean. The brakes are Avid Shorty 6 and are an older version from what they have on their website. There is some play in the right brake body where it fastens to the boss. I think this is what is creating the noise. Possible, and what do I do?
I find adding thin washers with ID larger than the boss (so that it sits on the brake-body rather than the boss) to take up this play really helps reduce the noice.
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Old 06-24-09, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
I find adding thin washers with ID larger than the boss (so that it sits on the brake-body rather than the boss) to take up this play really helps reduce the noice.
The squeal could be caused, as Danno suggested, by the loose arm making the pad vibrate very frequently against the rim causing a squeal.

Perhaps this is too obvious, but it's best to start simple: Have you checked to see if the brake arm bolt is screwed in as far s it is supposed to/correct torque?
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Old 06-24-09, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
I find adding thin washers with ID larger than the boss (so that it sits on the brake-body rather than the boss) to take up this play really helps reduce the noice.
I was thinking about this. I envisioned a nylon or silicone washer to dampen the vibration. I can't picture your specification. Internal Diameter larger than the boss? Would you put the washer between the boss and the brake body? I just can't envision how it would work if the internal diameter is larger than the boss.
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Old 06-24-09, 03:54 PM
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Large ID on washer so that if you install on bare brake-boss, it falls all the way to the bottom. The standard washer would sit at the end of the boss and be pinched in place by the bolt.

Some people grind/file the end of the boss to shorten it to remove the play. But it's very easy to overdo it and end up with a post that's too short and the bolt ends up locking the brake in place with no movement at all.

Standard washer looks like this:
https://www.avdw32.dsl.pipex.com/imag...washer-8mm.jpg


The washer I'm talking about looks like this, about 0.1-0.3mm thick:
https://www.americanmodeleng.com/site.../washer.01.jpg
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Old 07-07-09, 07:53 PM
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bump, any other tips? my pads are toed in and that only helps a little bit, they still screamin

Last edited by reptilezs; 07-07-09 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 07-07-09, 08:35 PM
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Try filing the rear ends of the pads?
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Old 07-07-09, 08:46 PM
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Does anyone have cantilevers that don't shriek like insane banshees? Seriously...my Avid Shorty 4s are why I ride discs now.
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Old 07-07-09, 08:50 PM
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Yes, see above. I have cheap Shimano cantilevers. They're great. I always wanted cantilevers, and I recently built up this Surly Cross Check.
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Old 07-07-09, 09:20 PM
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Well, you're one.

A search on this forum about cantilever brakes reveals an endless procession of threads about screaming brakes that offer negligible stopping ability.
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